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Will disconnecting electric to air compressor on 94 Ford Escort LX prevent clutch from engaging when defroster turned on? Clutch and/or compressor is seized up. Thank you!
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If all you get is hot air there are several possibilities. The compressor is driven by the serpentine belt and is engaged and disengaged by an electric clutch mounted on the compressor drive pulley. With the engine running, have an assistant turn on the AC while you observe the AC compressor clutch. If the clutch engages, you can be reasonably sure that the system has freon, and the electric circuit is OK. If the clutch doesn't engage, which is the most likely situation, either you are low on freon, the AC clutch relay is inop, or AC compressor fuse is open (blown). A search of Google images will give you the location of the AC relay. You can pull out the relay, carefully remove the cover, reinsert the relay, and engage the compressor clutch by manually closing the relay contacts. Warning: do this only for a second or two in order to see the clutch engage. If the clutch does engage, then you are probably low on freon. There is a safety switch that prevents the clutch from operating if there is not enough freon in the system. Hopefully, this is the case. Go to Walmart and get two cans of r-134 and the inexpensive kit, and following their instructions, charge your system. If this is not the problem, you'll need a set of AC gauges and the skill to use them. Hope this helps. Dano
There is a red wire going to the AC clutch, if you apply direct 12volts will it engage? If so, the constant control relay module (CCRM) could be defective. Hope this helps.
If you are handy, yes you can. Most likely causes are loss of freon which would prevent the compressor clutch from being engaged and operating the compressor, a lack of 12 volts being applied to the compressor clutch because the a/c compressor fuse or relay has failed, preventing the clutch from engaging the compressor, or the compressor clutch itself failing. Easy test is to watch the compressor pulley with the motor running. The pulley will, of course be spinning, but the circular assembly mounted to the front of the pulley will spin with the pulley only when the compressor is engaged. There is a sensor mounted to the a/c line that prevents the clutch from engaging the compressor if there in not enough freon in the system. You could go to auto zone or checker and buy a can of freon r-134 with a hose for around $15.00. It is fairly easy to follow the instructions to charge the system. If, after allowing some of the can to pressurize the system, the compressor clutch engages then you can continue to charge the system. Cold air should start to blow by the time the can is empty. Or you can locate the a/c relay located in the fuse panel, remove its plastic cover and manually close the contacts while observing the compressor pulley assembly. If the clutch doesn't engage then the problem in probably electrical, a fuse, the relay or the electric clutch itself. Go to auto zone and check you their dvd on a/c repair for under $9.00. Hope this helps! Dano
Lots of things can cause this, I will list them, easiest first.
A blown fuse or relay can prevent the clutch from kicking in. Low refridgerant charge will also do this, the low pressure switch will prevent the clutch from engaging when there is low refrigerant to prevent damage. You may need to put more in, and you also may need to jump the low pressure switch to get the compressor going to add more in. Very rarely the controls could have gone bad, which are the buttons on the dash. Id check out the fuses, relays, and pressure in the system first. A shop may even do a free diagnosis for you.
Air conditioner system is
discharged. Have the system evacuated, charged and leak tested by an
MVAC certified technician, utilizing approved recovery/recycling
equipment. Repair as necessary.
Air conditioner compressor clutch
not engaging. Check compressor clutch wiring, electrical connections
and compressor clutch, and repair or replace as necessary.
maybe. The compressor uses an electric clutch on the front to engage. when it engages, you should see the inside of the pulley start turning. With the clutch off, the pulley turns but not the inside. If the clutch is clicking but not engaging, it will have to be repaired with special tools.
the clutch on the air compressor coil is proably burnt out. disconnect electrical plug at end of air compressor and supply current direct from battery to see if clutch engages, if it does not, change thecoil clutch switch.
Check the fuse and relay for the compressor clutch. The clutch electrical winding could be open--check at the clutch electrical connection for 12 volts when the system is turned on. There is an interlock switch that prevents the compressor from being turned on if the system detects low freon level. Have that checked first, then worry about the electrics second. Hope this helps!
I am the original owner of a 1998 Ford Escort SE wagon. The summer of 2008 I had problems with my A/C system - the first A/C problem on this vehicle. Be careful that you do not over-charge your R134-A system.
1. Check that the A/C Compressor Clutch engages and drives the compressor properly (via the
serpentine drive belt and proper engine idling speed, A/C switched "on" etc.). If the A/C
compressor clutch doesn't engage and drive the compressor you will not be able to charge the
system to the correct refrigerant capacity and operating pressures.
2. You should be familiar with and have the proper tools to test & troubleshoot your auto's A/C
system. Test gauge(s), hose & connector's will be needed.
If the A/C compressor clutch does not engage the compressor, then you will need to troubleshoot the electrical system and components related to your auto's A/C system. This can be time consuming and requires more skill and information (accurate electrical schematics, etc.).
My problem:
1. A/C clutch didn't energize and engage.
2. System slightly low on R134-A, about a 7 oz. charge was needed after all was taken care of.
Solutions:
1. Electrical problem in the electronic controls for the A/C system. The "Contant Contol Relay
Module" (Ford part no. 3S4Z-12B577-BA, RELAY) had to be replaced. Sometimes Ford calls
this "black box" unit an "Integrated Control Relay Module". The location of this "black box" on my vehicle is under the engine intake air filter housing - replacement cost (new) is about $230;
(used) about $35.
2. Charged the required amount of R134-A into the system via the proper test gauge and related
equipment.
Please note: I have experience and training in mechanical (including refrigeration systems) and electrical systems.
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