Question about 1994 Suzuki DR 350 S
I have a dr 350 se 1994. My carb won't hold idle and the rpms are getting stuck and then coming down slowly. Is this the low end jetting @
Hi, Marc you need to make sure you have no intake leaks by spraying some Brake Kleen, Contact Cleaner, Starting Fluid etc. around the intake manifold and seals, if the RPM's go up or down significantly then you have a leak that needs to be fixed before you can continue with the carburetor adjustment.
The engine should be at operating temperature with the choke off to set the idle between 950-1050 rpm. Turn the idle skrew clockwise to increase the idle speed and counterclockwise to decrease the idle speed. If you have access to your air-fuel mixture skrew you may turn it as well, if not there is a video below on how to gain access, make sure you start with clean or new spark plugs. Gently turn the air-fuel mixture skrew clockwise until it starts to bottom out "STOP" do not over tighten as it will damage the taper on the end, now back the skrew out 1-1/2 full turns to establish a starting point start the engine and check the idle rpm's and turn the idle skrew accordingly for 950-1050 rpm if necessary, turn the air-fuel mixture skrew 1/4 turn at a time and let the engine settle for about 10 seconds, turn the skrew clockwise for a leaner mixture and counterclockwise for a richer mixture, you are seeking the highest rpm your air-fuel mixture skrew can acquire without going past 3 full turns from the bottom then resetting the idle skrew back down to 950-1050 rpm If you can not detect any rpm change and can not stall the engine by turning the air-fuel mixture skrew all the way in then your pilot/low-speed jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller. Final adjustment should be made with a clean air filter mounted to the carburetor.
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Suzuki DR350 Service Manual
Posted on Feb 21, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This sounds like an air leak is making the fuel/air mixture too lean. Any air leaks between the carb and the head will lean the mixture. Old, hard and cracked rubber manifold parts are the usual culprits. Old gaskets and "O" ring seals can leak air also. A bad head gasket seal happens at times also, as does an exhaust valve not fully seating. Air leaks are the idle speed problem.
A different problem is likely present in the carbs and that is what is causing the rich fuel smell. The carbs must be balanced. Example > If three of four carbs are perfectly balanced and one carb is not, then the 3 are "driving" the 4th carb. This will cause gas to spit into the air cleaner from the "bad" carb and can cause a backfire or two. Special vacuum gauges are needed to balance the carbs. Also be aware the carbs must be scycronizsed as well. The slides on all four carbs must lift at exactly the same time when the throttle is cracked.
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
I don't get paid for my answers but I do take pride in them, and I am only trying to help. So if you will, > > A “very helpful” rating for these answers? Thanks!
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
I would say "Yes" as Harley has been shipping their bike jetted as lean as possible to satisfy the EPA or other regulatory agencies in the country of destination. Anything you change anything on a motorcycle, you effect the entire system. Since the SE free flow mufflers were added, the bike could probably benefit from a little richer jet. If you change the air filter to a less restrictive one, that will probably lean the mixture even more.
One trick that I've been doing for years is to remove the carb and drill out the anti-tamper plug so that I can get to the idle mixture screw. Then go up one size on the slow jet. If it's a #42, go up to a #45. Then, take the needle out of the slide and install a 3mm flat washer that is about 0.020" thick (0.5mm) onto the long end of the needle and reinstall it. This will RAISE the needle just a bit to richen up the midrange just a bit. Put the carb back on and adjust the idle mixture for the highest smoothest idle and reset the idle speed. Works like a charm. I'd also replace the carb seal where it goes into the the intake to prevent vacuum leaks.
Posted on Sep 06, 2010
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