Starter will not turn over.votage to starter is 8 volts. new starter relay. 2001 1500

Time to get your volt meter out and do some fault finding. Don't just throw random parts at it!

• READ EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING
• 
  
• NOTE: some vehicles have the starter relay and starter mounted together as 1 unit. Sometimes the starter relay and starter are seperate. When I refer to "relay" it could also mean the starter and relay as 1 unit.

Note: "starter switch" is not to be confused with "key switch", although sometimes they are all one unit. The starter switch is usually mounted on the steering column and actuated by a metal rod. On units that are all one unit, the keyswitch/starter switch (both one unit) will have to be replaced. (this is a rare problem, so don't get worried just yet)
1. Check battery voltage, should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. if low voltage replace or charge battery, and try to start car, if it don't crank with new or charged battery, move on. 2. Check connections on the starter relay, even the small one coming from your starter switch. if loose or corroded, clean with a brush and reconnect them. Try to start your car. Did it start? if not, Move on 3. Well now we know the connections aren't the problem. How about a click? did you hear one? If a click is heard, go to #4, if nothing is heard, go to #5

4. Well at least the relay is clicking, but nothing else is going on. The relay is working, so the starter must be bad. Replace the starter and start your car!

5. Humm, connections aren't the problem, maybe the relay is bad, replace your relay with a new one. Move on

6. Now we have a new relay, with clean and tight connections. Start your car. Does it start? If yes, then HORRAY! we fixed it. Does it click? If so then goto #7, If it don't click, then goto #8

7. So here we have a new relay, with good connections that will click when trying to start the car, but nothing else happens. Starter is faulty, replace the starter, and off you go, see ya!

8. So here we have a new relay, with good connections, but it still won't click when we try to start our car. This means that your starter switch is faulty. Replace starter switch and try to start your car. Vroom! finally done with this car problem!

• List of shortcuts: if you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the relay and apply +12v to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. You can actually hook up a starter button this way. If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken.

READ THIS ALL BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING
NOTE: some vehicles have the starter relay and starter mounted together as 1 unit. Sometimes the starter relay and starter are seperate. When I refer to "relay" it could also mean the starter and relay as 1 unit.
Note: "starter switch" is not to be confused with "key switch", although sometimes they are all one unit. The starter switch is usually mounted on the steering column and actuated by a metal rod. On units that are all one unit, the keyswitch/starter switch (both one unit) will have to be replaced. (this is a rare problem, so don't get worried just yet)
1. Check battery voltage, should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. if low voltage replace or charge battery, and try to start car, if it don't crank with new or charged battery, move on.
2. Check connections on the starter relay, even the small one coming from your starter switch. if loose or corroded, clean with a brush and reconnect them. Try to start your car. Did it start? if not, Move on
3. Well now we know the connections aren't the problem. How about a click? did you hear one? If a click is heard, go to #4, if nothing is heard, go to #5
4. Well at least the relay is clicking, but nothing else is going on. The relay is working, so the starter must be bad. Replace the starter and start your car!
5. Humm, connections aren't the problem, maybe the relay is bad, replace your relay with a new one. Move on
6. Now we have a new relay, with clean and tight connections. Start your car. Does it start? If yes, then HORRAY! we fixed it. Does it click? If so then goto #7, If it don't click, then goto #8
7. So here we have a new relay, with good connections that will click when trying to start the car, but nothing else happens. Starter is faulty, replace the starter, and off you go, see ya!
8. So here we have a new relay, with good connections, but it still won't click when we try to start our car. This means that your starter switch is faulty. Replace starter switch and try to start your car. Vroom! finally done with this car problem!
List of shortcuts: if you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the relay and apply +12v to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. You can actually hook up a starter button this way. If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken.

Hello! Do you hear a click when the key is turned?...If no click is heard either the ignition key, the Crank relay, the starter, or the battery are suspect...Having lights and radio does not mean the battery is capable of running a starter motor......Put a meter on the battery...should read 12.5 volts...Turn key...Does voltage drop to 8 or 9 volts? Bad battery...If all is well with battery and connections to it...Check the starter fuse # 33 in the under hood fuse/relay box...If the fuse is good that click you should hear is from the Crank Relay in that box...If all of the above is OK connect your meter to the Purple wire that is connected to the starter motor...When the key is turned 12 volts must be on that wire...If there is the starter motor is defective...So, #1...Do you hear a click when key is turned...That would point at a bad starter or weak battery...#2...If you do not hear a click bad fuse #33, bad Crank Relay, bad ignition switch...#3...If fuse is good Bad Crank Relay or Ignition switch; Crank Relay is a low cost item ($10)...Replace Relay...Stop there and send a comment as to results...Guru...saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Listen to the clicking. If it comes from the starter solenoid (on the starter), then relay is not the problem, cause starter relay has passed current through to starter.. If clicking from one of those relays on the firewall, that might be a bad relay. You should be able to find the click by ear and by feel. Be sure and check your battery connections for tightness, the battery ground, and the starter connections. Could be a loose connection not letting the large current pass through.

battery good somtimes means 12 volts to people.What you need to do is establish whether the cranking amps are sufficent to get that puppy rolling over to start.One way is to load test the battery which is essentially what you are doing now.My senses tell me you should..#1 bypass relay and put full votage to the starter[bike in neutral please]this can easily be done at the other side of the relay block .#2 boast the battery with cables as you would a car . On electrical it is always hard to asess when not all the variables are known but I am betting the click click in this case means battery not putting the amps out.hope this does the job..

Measure the voltage on the starter side of the solenoid with the kill switch ON and the key ON and the starter switch PRESSED - trans in N. IF it is not 12 volts, it may be faulty.

With the ignition turned on, measure the voltage on the coil + terminal, it should be 8 to 12 volts, if there is nothing or very low ( ie 2 - 3 volts) then I would suspect the ballast resistor, )which may be part of the wiring from the key switch to the ignitionpack or coil.)