I have a 96 Vulcan 1500 L w/ 8k miles. It has been running great. Engine stalls when I release the clutch in 1st gear. Fluid/hydraulics is/feels good. new oil and filter, although it was low when I changed it. Kickstand switch is disconnected. I have not bled the clutch. Any ideas? Carb or clutch plates?

could be problem clutch safety switch turning off the engine power
not a gear box or drive shaft problem but a clutch action problem
clutch hydraulics or cable problem

Hi,

First, congrats on the most detailed problem description I have ever seen! Seriously, it does assist us.

All this is completely consistent with your clutch not releasing properly, meaning that the gearbox is still turning when the pedal is depressed. The syncros in the gearbox will then keep you out of gear, that is what they should do. You can indeed shift into higher gears however when driving as the gearbox revs more nearly match to what is needed. The jerking forward when you hit the starter is due to the poor old starter motor having to move the whole car instead of just the engine, because the clutch has not released !

Now as to why, it is likely that the clutch release fork has broken, inside the housing. I had this once with a Mazda, and symptoms were exactly as you describe. The gearbox has to be removed if this is the problem, and you should also then take the chance to renew the clutch, pressure and driven plate both, unless quite new.

Also a possible cause is a complete loss of clutch fluid if a hydraulic clutch, or a broken cable if that type of clutch. Loss of fluid in a hydraulic clutch can be easily checked in the fluid reservoir, and can occur if a hose splits
..

Sounds like your clutch is out of adjustment, or needs to be bled. Most of the ktm's use a Magura hydraulic clutch which can be bled using Mineral Oil. DO NOT USE BRAKE FLUID.

If the car has a few miles on it, the clutch may be worn. To test this, put the gearbox in 3rd and let the clutch out slowly while pressing the brake hard. The engine should stall immediately. If it runs on a bit before stalling, the clutch is worn.

At the other extreme, if the clutch is not releasing fully, which causes crunching of the gears, either the clutch hydraulic line needs bleeding, or the clutch cable needs adjusting up, whichever type it is.

If the transmission fluid is full and the linkage connected then you have but one choice here the transmission has failed. I have seen this exact scenario come through the door of the shop dozens of times, drove fine then nothing the next day or an hour later or 10 minutes later. The cause, a faulty clutch pack or a failed hydraulic pressure pump or a internal leak in the high pressure fluid circuit that applies the clutch packs.

With the engine off, check your operation of the gear shift. If you can go in and out of the gears fine without the engine running, then you have a worn clutch disc that needs replaced. If the problem still exists then you either have low fluid/weak hydraulic system, or there is a problem with the syncro that may be adjusted.

clutch hydraulic system has failed
low fluid levels , air in system,problem clutch master cylinder will cause the indicated problems
take it to a clutch/brake specialist shop and get a proper diagnosis and quote

High milage may need trans fluid replaced. Not the clutch hydraulic fluid but the gear oil/fluid. Could be the 1st gear syncro is warn too.

clutch self adjuster is bad,you need to replase cabel/try orileys auto parts first,or dealer for cable.
tim

The problem seem to involve a number of circuits, I would suspect the Key switch as it supplies power to all affected systems. The dieing on release of the clutch is usually the kickstand safety switch. If the kick stand is not up, and the bike in gear, then when the clutch switch detects release is kills the engine so you don't kill your self.
Check or replace these switches.

Hope this is of some help.
Ed