Pull on clutch lever soft, transmission won't shif gears (ingage/disengage) reservoir was low, so i filled it, lever still soft, does get firmer but not what should be, still won't change gears

Check the fluid reservoir. If it's low on fluid, fill the reservoir and pump the clutch pedal until you feel resistance from the clutch. If the reservoir is full, and the clutch isn't disengaging, you likely have a bad release bearing or broken linkage. If it is a bearing problem you're most likely into a clutch replacement.

Sounds Like Pressure Plate Or Clutch Plate Are Worn Out ,You Could Check The Slave Cylinder To See That It Is Going Full Travel In And Out As You Operate The Clutch Pedal

Are you sure that the clutch has been bled properly as the clutch may not be disengaging properly.

If it's a clutch,check clutch master fluid,if real low or out,go check clutch slave cylinder,it's bolted on side of transmission,see if it is leaking,if so replace and bleed.You can fix temporary,fill reservoir and bleed,will get you there,done it.

Hi Donna:
If you try filling your clutch resavoir with brake fluid, its probably low level? If this is OK, then sound like clutch plate or clutch adjustment seems to be the most likely thing in that it is not disengaging fully. Check the adjustment.

Other problem could be worn gear linkages and joint bushes, I suggest check check play along gear change train from gear lever to gearbox selector input.

Finally, you might have an internal problem with the clutch or the transmission itself, although most manual transmissions are hydraulic, meaning they require fluid to operate. The clutch master cylinder is usually next to the brake master cylinder.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day.

Good news, you just need adjust the clutch cable..

Always order the part for your model and year when getting parts and make sure it matches in length with the old one. Note how much cable is sticking out of the housing.
Is it 3 1/2 inches or 4 inches or 2 inches. make sure the new one matches.

Put the new cable on with lots of slack.Slack at the adjuster, and slack at the handlebar adjuster
Now pull the lever in, it will be easy because of the slack.let it stay there.
It will stay against the grip.
As you tighten the cable adjustment down by the cover, you'll notice the clutch lever move out.
Once it reaches the top, stop adjusting and pull it in again.
Continue adjusting and pulling the lever until the lever springs back to the top.
You can feel resistence which is the clutches disengaging.
Make sure there is 1/8" free play when the lever springs back.
Now turn the clutch cable adjust on the handlebar outward, which will remove the rest of the slack.
Only leave 2mm slack on the lever.

Now start your bike up and it should work like new.
You want your clutch to disengage within the first 1/2" of pulling the lever in.
This ensures the clutches are definately disengaged by the time you get the lever pulled back to the grip when shifting.

If your clutches are slipping or dragging no matter how you adjust the cable then your clutches may need replaced.
But sounds to me like its just an adjustment.
Hope to be helpful
Big Al

Take cover off the clutch reservoir and check the fluid level. Fill it if necessary. Look for leaks between the clutch lever/reservoir, down the hose to the clutch slave cylinder. If no leaks visible, slowly squeeze clutch lever and release, watching for air or fluid pumping in the reservoir. Repeat until clutch has a solid pull. If the pull doesn't improve and stay good, you'll need to bleed the hose and slave cylinder. Locate the bleed valve at the clutch, squeeze the lever till it's a good solid pull, hold it in, and open the bleed valve. Watch for air bubbles. After doing this several times, you should get nothing but fluid. Refill the reservoir and close it. Good riding

in the break fluid reservoir just use dot 3 break fluid. the clutch line is tapped into the break line so the one reservoir supply's both the breaks and the clutch fluid.

Hey End,
check out these components... one of them IS the problem.. make sure the system will pump fluid all the way to the bottom of the hose..THIS WILL REQUIRE TWO PEOPLE..and a can of fluid.. We are going to test the lever's ability to pressurize the hose...(This will help pinpoint the issue!!)..First.. remove the cover of the reservoir..(keep it level)...(DO NOT let the reservoir get low on fluid!!) one of you needs to remove the hose at the connection(#21 - master cyl. pic)..it will be leaking.. place your finger and thumb over the hose(prevent it from leaking).. have your helper fill the reservoir..now have your helper squeeze the lever.. see if you feel pressure on your finger and thumb..if not.. try putting the cover on the reservoir..and now try pumping the lever ...see if you get pressure at your finger and thumb.(it SHOULD blow fluid out!). IF THERE is NO pressure - no matter what you try..-- The problem is in the master cylinder.. (START from the BOTTOM pic first)..

The numbered pic's are the main culprits.. the problem is most likely in the master cylinder... -- then the clutch (#14 - #16) components...

PlEASE mark as helpful.... thanks

RIGHT CRANKCASE COVER For 1989 Honda VT1100C

#8 or #9

CLUTCH For 1989 Honda VT1100C

#14 or #16

CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER For 1989 Honda VT1100C

#4 is a M.C. rebuild kit.. #7 ..

You need to fix the Leak in your hydraulic system to your clutch on your transmission. The reason that your transmission is not going  in to gear right is that the fluid is to low to push the throw out bearing to disengage the clutch fully. 
Once the fluid get's too low, you'll not be able to disengage the clutch to put it in to gear or change gear.
Check the fluid level to your hydraulic clutch reservoir and fill to the right level and fix the leak in the hydraulic lines.
Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted, glad to help.