I have 01 gsxr 750 i took it to shop for a basic tune up and new battery. they called and said it was done. i got there it started right up. so i jump on it and rode it down the road. the bike would not get over 7k. so took it back told them what was going on. they looked at said it was the tps so they changed. no change. so they cleaned fuel filter,injectors,air filter, checked for kinked hoses. still nothing. now they say its the ecm. the bike has a power commander.

https://www.google.com/search?q=wiring+diagram+for+an+01+gsxr+750

Lots there, but you should buy a service manual.

Cant see why it wont fit as I think the frames are the same onlly the engine siz is different

If the bike was running correctly when it was put in storage two years ago, I would start with the easy things first: As the previous poster suggested, install new, correctly gapped plugs, along with a new battery. Your bike uses an electronic ignition system, and it will not opporate correctly if you have a bad battery. The bike will miss, pop, and backfire, because there is not enough electrical power in storage (battery) to properly run the ignition system.

If these two things do not get the bike running correctly you will need to look at the carbs. Was the bike stored with fuel in the tank and carbs? If so, this is the most likely reason for the bike not wanting to run correctly. Flames from the exhaust are an indication of a very rich fuel/air mixture (a float could be stuck open (it can also be caused by the ignition not working properly and allowing unburnt fuel into the exhaust system)). Cleaning and reassembling mulitple carborators is not that difficult if you are careful and reasonably handy, but tuning them properly can be very difficult. You can save a lot of money if you rebuild them yourself, then take the bike to the shop to be tuned (The standard service rate these days is around $75 an hour)

YOU HAVE A SHORT IN THE CIRCUT

Your shifter cam bolt has backed out, this is a common problem on earlier GSXR's. Happened twice on my 2000, both times during race weekends.

Stop riding the bike and shifting at all and do the following repair:

Remove clutch cover - you'll drain some oil so make sure you have a drip pan underneath

Remove the 5 the clutch housing plate bolts - careful as they have pretty stiff springs behind them providing torsion

Remove all the clutch plates - make sure you keep the same order and re-install the same way; matter of fact if you have never replaced your clutch plates, do it along with this repair.

Once the clutch case is basically empty, you will see at the lower left a small assembly that looks a bit like a tuning fork, at the end of the shifter shaft. There is also a cam there with rounded cogs. There is a 8mm or 10 mm hex head bolt that holds this cam, and I'm sure it has backed out and is causing the cam and shifter to not engage the gears properly.

Remove the cam bolt. Spray some compressed air or even a light spray of brake cleaner in the threaded area where the bolt you just removed is. Make sure the threads are clean and dry.

Place the cam bolt and assembly back in its position, and take some RED loctite to the shifter cam bolt threads. Make sure to torque the bolt to specifications, I think it's 24 or 28 nm.

Let the bolt set for 24-8 hours, then reassemble the clutch and replace the clutch cover gasket. Top off the oil and go riding.

amps should not be the prob ,voltage too high would be .your inital prob is the sharging system.when runing should be at 13.5to14.3

altenator and connections..possible ground

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, try starting with the clutch lever pulled in and / or the sidestand folded up.  Additionally, determine if there is a clicking sound.  If there is, then it would most likely be the starter solenoid.

Good luck and thank yu for asking FixYa.

You have two coils on the bike. I would start by checking the coil for the non working cylinders. Trace the spark plug wires back to the coil from cylinders 1 & 2.