How do I remove the 14mm bolt holding the generator rotor to replace the starter gear behind it.Is it regular threading and how do I keep the engine from turning?

It generally has a long rotor through bolt accessibile from the generator end, this forces the generator rotor onto a tapered shaft on the engine. Once removed the through bolt slide a long bar ion the hole and screw the bolt back in, that will force it off the taper

Center bolt in the rotor- rotating field bolted to end of crankshaft must come out first- it will likely be a left-hand thread as well.

Once that is out, you can see if the mounting bolts (usually 4) that hold the end bell of generator to the engine can be removed- many times they can with enough socket extension- once those bolts are removed the engine should split from the generator with ease.

If you are trying to remove the power head from the engine tip the engine side down so the recoil is at ground level. Place some rags between the engine and the generator. Locate or obtain a bolt that is snug in the hole of the generator at least 4 inches long with a nut and a big fat washer. Spin the nut up about 8 or 9 threads and start wrapping the bolt with teflon pipe tape. I am talking about making a HUGE bulge of teflon tap just past the first thread almost to the washer. You will be using the teflon to grip the end of the rotor and act like a threaded insert. Fill the hole that you removed the long bolt from with oil all the way to the hole opening. Start threading the bolt into the hole and use the nut to keep the washer flat against the end of the rotor and to keep the teflon from peeling off. After the bolt has passed into the hole about 2 inches it should separate the rotor from the engine. It will BANG when it pops loose and dump the oil you added onto the rags. I.e it will scare you! Then you can just lift it off.
I have done this so many times to repair generators that I have lost count. It works every time.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

I am assuming that you mean the generator head from the engine. If this is so, 1st remove the end cover from the gen. head. You will see a bolt that goes through the rotor shaft to the engine shaft. The engine his a tapered shaft, that the gen head bolts to. 2) Remove the long bolt from the rotor shaft. 3) Remove the 4 long bolts that hold the housing ends together. 4) cut a length of rod that is smaller in diameter than the rotor shaft bolt and about 1/2 inch shorter. This will be used as a push rod to separate the engine shaft from the rotor shaft. 5) There are threads at the beginning(inside) of the rotor shaft. Most likely metric. Find the right size bolt, approx. 1" long. Screw in until contact with the push rod. (If possible, use an impact wrench to make it easy.) Tighten til the shafts "pop loose." One suggestion to keep the engine from rotating while doing this is to remove the spark plug, stick a length of small rope down the hole, leaving some hanging out, rotate engine until piston packs against the rope and stops the rotation. 6)now that the gen head is removed, the engine mounting end can be removed. Good luck.

Big Daddy

The starter motor is located on the front of the engine behind the exhaust pipe and next to the oil filter.

First disconnect the battery. Next remove the flat, angular heat shield from the starter itself (1x 8mm nut and 2x 8mm bolts). Do NOT try to remove the heat shield from the Exhaust pipe - it can't be removed with the starter in place and it's not necessary anyway. Next remove the oil filter. You'll loose a few ounces of oil so be prepared for that with a drain pan and either cover the removed filter to keep debris out or replace it and remember to check the oil level later. Remove the small signal wire from the solenoid (released by pushing in a tiny lever with a finger tip) and also remove the 12mm nut attaching the positive battery cable to the starter.

The starter is held in place by two 14mm bolts. On the engine (passenger) side, there is a 14x30mm bolt threading into the transaxle from the bottom of the starter. On the transaxle (driver) side, there is a longer 14x50mm bolt threading into the top of the starter

sorry i couldnt find an actual diagram for ya, hope this helps

Working on 3.3Liter V6 Nissan Xterra, -Ok Take Neg Cable Off Battery,- Set motor to TDC Compression #1 #1 is front right Cylinder, -Remove Timing Belt, -Remove your timing belt tensior pulley, -Ok The Crankshaft Timing Sprocket take and remove outer spacer ring now take spray wd40 ect..behind gear try to get wd40 work between crank and gear i take hammer and gently knock the great back into the pump then i take crow feet and work the gear forward between the oil pump and the rear spacer ring then spray with wd40 and repeat process now if the lip of the spacer rings bends forward take straighten with vice and hammer, -Now time to drain Motor Oil,- Now Go to your right front Frame and remove 3 19mm head nuts off 19mm bolts from Idler Arm, push tires together Toe In, Watch your center link drop now you can began to remove your oil pan,Remove Starter, Remove the left bracket 14mm bolts and the right starter spacer Take Note: 14mm bolt just above the lowest starter bolt remove starter shim spacer, the 10mm bolts rear of oil pan 1/4 extiension and 1/4 10mm scoket -,The Motor mount 14mm nuts will have to be removed from the right mount almost all the way off your left drivers side mount, lift motor gently off right mount about 1 inch off the mount. Ok Remove Oil Pan From The Motor, Take Note 2 12mm head bolts right / left side of oil pump longest goes into alternator bracket, 4 10mm bolts 1 is hidden Lower right side Pump front now your oil pump will be loose to remove off pull forward to front of truck....I find that pouring Lucas engine oil stabalizer into the pump where oil filter mounts and turn pump until prime and take lithium grease and rub inside of front main crank seal..before installing new pump..!!! Take Note: if the crank sprocket gear is Stubborn I have seen Map Gas and i have seen holes drilled into front of gear, then Tapped and 2 bolt puller to remove the Sprocket but keep in mind your going to replace the pump so you can use a little force to get it to move just keep soaking with penatrating oil get it working back and forth....Hope this helps Oh yes Take Note: The converter Bolt Cover Will come out but the Engine - Transmission Spacer plate Will Stay in Place.I have seen tech take cutoff wheel and cut the engine Transmission Spacer Plate Where Starter Sits In And The left Side And Place it back into place where the bellhousing bolts hold it back in place but you should not have to do this..just thought it intersting...Dyi Nissan Xterra 3.3liter V6 Oil Pump R&R......

Can't remember the particular model 1998, but generally, here's how to remove the starter on a 90's Protege:
Disconnect the negative battery terminal to remove power from the starter. The starter and starter solenoid are one unit.
There should be 2 or 3 14mm bolts holding the starter to the tranny. At least one of these bolts is accessed from above the transmission, requiring the removal of (at least)the air filter housing and intake, and the battery and tray if you want to make it easy on yourself. Remove those first, then remove the top starter bolt before you go under the car. You might be able to access the top bolt from the left wheel well if you take out the plastic splash guard behind the left wheel, and have a nice long extension with a "wobbly" 14mm socket. There are a number of 10mm bolts and a few plastic fasteners that hold this on.
I believe the starter is located behind a bracket that supports the intake manifold from the engiine block. Remove the 4 bolts on this bracket and remove it from the vehicle. The starter wire may be attached to this bracket with a plastic clip, just undo the clip and the bracket should come right out. The bolts that hold the bracket on the manifold end are usually pretty hard to get to; be patient.
Once you have access to the starter, there should be either 1 or two bolts that hold the starter in on the bottom. Remove the bolts and carefully remove the starter from it's position in the transmission. Once you have the starter free, remove the starter cable and the small wire from the clip on the starter solenoid.
Re-install in reverse order.

take off tires. two 14mm bolts behind the caliper. loosen the bottom 1. tilt the caliper up. slide caliper inward of the car, let caliper hang. two 17mm bolts behind the bracket take it off. and rotors should slide out. if rotor seized spray WD40 and hammer the rotor. careful don't hammer the stud it will screw up the thread.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal to remove power from the starter. The starter and starter solenoid are one unit.
There should be 2 or 3 14mm bolts holding the starter to the tranny. At least one of these bolts is accessed from above the transmission, requiring the removal of (at least)the air filter housing and intake, and the battery and tray if you want to make it easy on yourself. Remove those first, then remove the top starter bolt before you go under the car. You might be able to access the top bolt from the left wheel well if you take out the plastic splash guard behind the left wheel, and have a nice long extension with a "wobbly" 14mm socket. There are a number of 10mm bolts and a few plastic fasteners that hold this on.
I believe the starter is located behind a bracket that supports the intake manifold from the engiine block. Remove the 4 bolts on this bracket and remove it from the vehicle. The starter wire may be attached to this bracket with a plastic clip, just undo the clip and the bracket should come right out. The bolts that hold the bracket on the manifold end are usually pretty hard to get to; be patient.
Once you have access to the starter, there should be either 1 or two bolts that hold the starter in on the bottom. Remove the bolts and carefully remove the starter from it's position in the transmission. Once you have the starter free, remove the starter cable and the small wire from the clip on the starter solenoid.
Re-install in reverse order.

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Smith

remove the wheel, remove the calipers (two bolts, 12mm head),
you'll have to hold the slides with a 14mm to keep them from spinning while you remove the caliper bolts.
remove the caliper brackets, (two bolts with threadlocker 18mm head I think, get ready for the fight),
remove the little clips from the wheel studs (usually you can pry them up to the threads with a screwdriver then just spin 'em off)....that should do it....pull off the rotor.