I have a Kawasaki 1988 ZX10 and there is a flat spot at about 3000 RPM. The problem seems worse when the engine is fully warm. Also I don't know if this is related but when you leave the bike for a couple of weeks without use, it is difficult to start on 3 cylinders for a couple of minutes. I was thinking of having it Dyno-Jetted - what do you think?

Probably out of timimg

If the starter turns and stops and turns again without your finger coming off the switch the starter needs to be replaced.

It could be a fuel issue or an air issue. There are so many different things it could be based on the symptoms. I would start with the fuel filter, if it contains trash it will restrict the flow of fuel to the engine especilly at higher RPM's when the engine need's it. Also, if the injectors are dirty they could restrict fuel also. If you have a leak in the intake manifold this would cause erratic running at higher RPM's also. Sometimes they are installed incorrectly. You can check this by letting the engine idle, have someone lightly press the accelerator (while it's in park of course) while you either spray ether or if you smoke, you can blow smoke into the engine bay near the intake and see if it's sucking the smoke up from some other spot rather than where it should be. Basically something foggy so you can see it being vacuumed from a leaky spot. This will even let you know if you have a vacuum leak. If all else fails try adding two small bottles of Lucas to your gas tank. It works wonders! Worth a shot.

if its only a slight tick under load, probably just the common kawasaki v-twin noise. seems all of them have latters that are unexplainable but never get any worse. mine will be noisy at lower rpm under loads but goes away if i let the rpm go higher in all the gears. best to allow them to run at faster engine speeds as they need lots of oil to keep the overhead cams and hydraulic lifters going. they are not made to lug around.

facebook zx400g zx4-f3

Thrue the clutch cable and the adjuster nut thare at the clutch hub... Adjust the one at the clutch hub first then take up slack at the handle ..

The AC output of the stator should be 32-40 volts at 2000 RPM (16-20 per 1000 RPM). With the battery fully charged, your regulator should supply between 13.5 and 15.0 DC volts to the battery. This should be the reading you get on your voltmeter. It will vary depending on what lights and other equipment you have turned on. Sounds like everything is working fine to me. The gauge is reading the DC voltage at the battery while the engine is running. At 2000 RPM, 12 volts is a little low but, considering the accuracy of the gauge, as long as it doesn't fall below 12 volts, it's about right. You don't ride for extended periods at engine RPMs that low. Then at 3000 RPM, 14 volts is about right. If your bike never ran anymore than 12 volts, your battery would slowly go down. If it goes any higher than 15.0 volts, it will boil the battery. Usually, about 14.3 or so with no load on the system is about right.

Good Luck
Steve

dont buy it is not worth it.......

ok buddy on the carb will be some sort of screw and idle screw turn this in 1/4 of a turn with the machine running until it idles at 1000rpm also the choke will stall the engine when warm the choke is only for cold starts get back to me more info or problems