1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster Logo
Posted on Aug 15, 2011
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Unable to get starter to turn.have rplcd batt.cables.rplcd starter relay,solenoid,starter also rplcd.bike mostly rewired added a ground cable to solenoid from frame.does also have an added pushbutton switch{on bike when purch.}this be used as main source of starting.{bar swiches only some time work}.when i can pwr to starter it will get bike started. now im wondering if batt. to small in power/amps.any help GREATLY APPRECAITED..rewire done to eliminate possible shorts/broken wires. real beast to get to start{jumpstart/bypass,power direct to start term.} seems to run ok when running..be it possible batt too small in amps??

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  • Posted on Aug 15, 2011
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This is a possibility. The header says you're working on a 1979 XLH 1000cc Sportster. This is not a 250cc bike and it takes a good battery to start and engine of this size. I've never seen a CCA rating on the battery requirement in a service manual but it does say that the battery should be capable of at least 32 Ahr.

Good Luck
Steve

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  • Posted on Sep 07, 2011
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1972 harley xl 1000 starter just spins doesent engage clutch basket replaced selonoid and bendix and starter still just spins

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get some wire that's equal in size or larger gauge than the battery cable (a jump start cable works great) and connect from one side of the solenoid to the other momentarily. The starter should engage. If it doesn't, you have either a dead battery, bad battery cable, or the starter relay is bad. You can also try a jumper from from the battery positive terminal to the starter side of the solenoid. If it engages then the the battery cable from the battery to the solenoid is bad. To test the relay, put 12 volts dc on the trigger side and the relay contacts should close. You'll hear them close with a click.
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With the battery out you should be able to see the starter underneath the batt cage although you might not be able to see much depending on your bike's details. The large ground wire attaches to the side of the starter field winding with a bolt and the case grounds it to the rest of the bike. You may be able to remove the starter without removing the cage but most likely you will get better access by removing it first. Depends on the tools you have and your specific setup as to what might be in the way.
There are 2 bolts to remove the starter from the gearbox, but you might have additional stabilizer brackets on the starter to contend with too.
You have one of 2 problems- either the solenoid isn't kicking the gear out to the clutch hub gear or the gearcase has a problem keeping the starter gear from engaging. You'll have to remove the gearcase clutchhub cover to get to the hub gear assemblies.

Most likely to fail is the solenoid and you can often clean up the copper disc with emery cloth or flip it over if badly pitted to renew the solenoid.
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