Power is not getting from battery, to the ignition. I know that the battery has power and is charged. However from the battery to the battery on there seems to be something wrong.

turn headlights on, measure voltage, if they don't come on the battery is bad

The most likely reason for ignition power issues is either a flat battery or a fault in the charging system. Do you get dashboard lights when you turn the key to the first and second positions? Do the dash lights dim when you turn the key to position three, (Engine start)? Do you get any sounds when you turn the key like a 'click' or the engine turning slowly?
Here is a simple battery test. Turn the ignition to position 2, (ignition On, engine Off), Turn on your lights and switch to Main/High beam. Stand in front of the car an look at the front lights. If the battery is low they won't be very bright.
Do you have a multimeter? Put the probes directly on the battery terminals with red to the positive and black to the negative. The multimeter set to volts should give you a reading of 12.6 volts or higher for a fully charged battery. Anything at or below 9 volts will not be enough to start the vehicle.
** Keep well clear of any moving engine part!**
If you can get the vehicle started, (Jump leads or 'bump start'), use the same method on the battery. This shows if the alternator is supplying charge to the battery. You should get a higher reading, somewhere around 14 volts.
Comment below if you need anymore help.

It almost sounds as if you had some sort of security system in the car that disables the ignition and prevents the car from starting. How do you know that you have power to the starter? Does the engine actually turn over? If that is the case, you might have a bad wire connection from the starter to the main power supply.

the battery must be flat , try a jump start or get a new battery , when you have got engine running get the alternator charge rate checked as could be the reason for flat battery, if charge rate is ok then check to see if anything had been left on whilst car was left

If the battery charged before the "chop job/ignition bypass" and afterward does not, the you have left out a circuit that excites the alternator field. This was most likely part of the original ignition wiring, and you will need a Honda wiring diagram of you bike model and specific year in order to identify the wiring correctly. Otherwise, restore the original ignition wiring and switches, and see if the battery starts charging again. Then work backwards removing only the wiring that you know is not part of the charging system. Through the process of elimination you will discover which wire powers the alternator. It will take time and patience.

The alternator needs power from the ignition switch for the stator coil. The ground for the stator comes from the power module. Then, the charge wire from the alternator to the battery has a fusible link that you should check. Use an ohmmeter to check the continuity of the fusible link and, with the key on, back-probe the dark green wires to the alternator to see if one of them is getting 12 volts from the ignition switch. The other dark green wire should have continuity to engine ground. If all of these things are true and the alternator is good, you should get at least 14 volts out of the alternator to the battery with the engine running. Let me know if you have any questions.

your battery isn't fully charged, or your battery contacts need to checked/cleaned!! The starter isn't getting enough power, this is the reason for the slow spin and clicks.

It sounds like the battery is dead and needs to be charged or replaced, Once the battery has a charge from a battery charger or by having the car boosted with another car to start it, the ignition key's should come out of the ignition. You need power to the electrical system for the ignition to have the keys come out, Note do not force the keys out. Forcing the keys out can and will damage the Pass-lock system to the ignition. Good luck and keep me posted. be glad to know you got your car running again.

You need to get the battery charged enough to have the key's to release from the ignition switch. Take care that you do not damage the ignition switch over a simple boost to the battery. There is a micro switch on the gear shifter that signals the ignition to release the keys, but with no power to the gear shifter switch, the key's will not come out. Good luck and hope this helps, boost the battery or charge it enough to power the electrical system to the blazer and your should be able to get your key's out of the ignition. Keep me posted, be glad to answer any other questions you may have. 

If you know anyone that has a portable booster, you should be able to plug the cord from the 12v outlet on the booster into the 12v (cigarette lighter or accessory charger) in the car, and get enough power to pop the trunk.