Want to remove rubber pads from the stock floorboards in order to put new covers on. how do you remove the rubber portion easily? Jim

If present, remove right saddlebag.
Remove the rear master cylinder reservoir cap. As the pistons are pushed back into the caliper, fluid level may rise more than 1/8 in. (3.2 mm). You may have to remove fluid to allow for this.
Loosen, but do not remove, both pad pins (12 pt/0.25 in.).
Pry the inside pad back. Use steady pressure to prevent scoring the brake disc. Pry between the pad and the brake disc in order to push the caliper pistons back into their bores.
Once the pistons have been fully retracted into their bores, pull pad pins part way until the inside pads drop free. Note the pad's original orientation for replacement purposes.
Install pad with two tabs on the inboard side of the rear caliper.
Install new inside brake pad using the same orientation as the pad previously removed. Curved portion of pad must face upward.
Install pad pins until the pins snap into place with an audible click. Do not fully tighten at this time.
Pump brake pedal lever to move inside pistons out until they contact inside brake pads.
Pry the outside pad back. Pry between the pad and the brake disc in order to push the caliper pistons back into their bores.
Verify that inside pads are captured between brake disc and pistons. Completely remove pad pins to free outside brake pad. Note the pad's original orientation for replacement purposes.
Install new outside brake pad using the same orientation as the pad previously removed. If the inside pad moved during the previous step, reinstall. Curved portion of pad must face upward.
Install both pad pins through holes in inner and outer
brake pads. Tighten to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm).

The minimum brake disc thickness is stamped on the side of the disc. Maximum brake disc lateral runout or warpage is 0.008 inch (0.2 mm) when measured near the outside diameter.
Replace brake pads if the friction material above the backing plate on either pad is 0.04 inch (1.02 mm) thick or less.

To remove the rear brake pads begin by removing the right side saddlebag, loosen both pad pins but do not remove them or installation of the new pads will be more difficult than needs to be, remove the rear master cylinder reservoir so you can se the fluid level as you push the pads and the pistons back as the level ma rise too much when the pistons are seated fully in their bores and you may have to see this and remove excess fluid, pry the inside pad back pushing the pistons fully into their bores using a putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid scoring or scratching the brake disc. THEN when the pistons have been fully retracted pull the pad pins part way out until the inside pad drops free and note the orientation of the pad so that you can easily install the new pad in the same orientation with the curved portion of pad necessarily facing the rear of the motorcycle, install the new pad and install but do not tighten the pad pins, then pump the rear brake pedal to move the inside pistons out until they
they contact the inside brake pad, then using a putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid scoring or scratching the brake disc pry the outside pad back in order to push those pistons fully into their bores, verify that the inside pad is captured between the brake disc and the pistons, completely remove the pad pins to free the outside brake pad. note the orientation of the pad before it falls out and install a new outside brake pad using the same orientation with the curved portion of pad necessarily facing the rear of the motorcycle and if the inside pad moved during the previous step reinstall it. Replacing one pad at a time keeps the anti-rattle spring in place and so if you wish to replace the spring you will have to remove both pads to remove and replace it. THEN inspect the pad pins for unacceptable wear/grooving and replace if and as necessary and install the two pad pins and tighten them to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3- 22.6 Nm). THEN pump the brake pedal to extend the pistons and move the brake pads out against the brake disc. THEN check that the brake fluid is at the proper level about 1/8 inch down from the top of the reservoir and add NEW D.O.T. 5 SILICONE BRAKE FLUID, if necessary, install the master cylinder reservoir cover and tighten the cover screws to 6-8 inlbs(0.7-0.9 Nm), install the right side saddlebag, turn on the ignition/Light Key Switch and observe proper operation of the brake light, safely test ride the motorcycle and if the brakes feel soft or spongy, bleed them until you get a firm, hard pedal. Allow the new pads to properly wear in to the disc by not doing hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km).

You will have to clean the keyboard touch pads. its a pain full job because one has to remove at least 50 screws before one gets access to the key pads. Remove the back cover and make a note of what screws goes ware.Then remove the screws that hold a long circuit board over the keyboard ( lots of small screws ) . Invert this board and clean the black carbon tracks as well as the rubber key pads with solutions like WD40. Install it back in the reverse order making sure you put all the right screws in the right place. Should work fine after that until dust again gets in between.

here are instructions from autozone.com

1. Open the hood and if equipped with a rubber access cover, remove the cover over the back of the headlight assembly, and then disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb.
2. If a rubber seal/cover is mounted around the bulb, disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb, and then remove the rubber seal/cover.
3. Once the electrical connector has been disconnected, squeeze the ends of the retaining bracket inward, then pivot the retainer away from the rear of the headlight assembly.
4. Grasp the bulb securely and remove, noting the location of the alignment tabs for installation. Allow the bulb to cool before removing it from the headlight assembly.

NOTE Do NOT touch the glass portion of the new bulb. This will shorten the life of the bulb.

Fig. On some models, a rubber cover is removed to access the bulb-1.8L Passat model shown

Fig. Once the cover is removed the wiring can be accessed and disconnected-1.8L Passat model shown

Fig. The bulb is retained by metal bracket. The ends are squeezed toward one another to release them from their retainers-1.8L Passat shown

To install:

NOTE Do NOT touch the glass portion of the new bulb. This will shorten the life of the bulb.

1. Install the new bulb into the headlight housing and squeeze the ends of the retaining bracket inward while pivoting the retainer toward the rear of the headlight assembly. Release the retaining bracket making sure it is fully seated in its retainer.
2. The balance of assembly is in reverse order of removal.

How to replace the rear brake pads on a 1995 through 2001 Ford Explorer The system utilizes a drum-in-hat type rear brake rotor. The integral drum allows the use of a drum-and-shoe type parking brake system. All other components are similar to their front disc brake components Remove the two bolts on either side of the brake hose with the rubber boots. Do not remove the four bolts where the axle ties in. The two bolts to be removed require a 10mm socket/wrench. Loosen the pads from the caliper Rotor Removal In order to take the rotors off (replace with new or have them machined), it is best to loosen the emergency brake shoes. To do this, behind the rotors, in the back there is a rubber plug, remove that and you can use a screw driver to engage the teeth of the adjusting screw, turn it clockwise to loosen, usually 10-20 teeth. Usually this means turn it downward. After this, it may still be difficult to get the rotors off without tapping them. Use a rubber mallet and hit them from behind. Before really whacking the rotor, make sure you have loosened the adjusting screw enough. It may take heavy swings of the rubber hammer to do this. It will eventually break loose. Parking Brake You might want to check the parking brake while you are here. To remove:

• Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

• Remove the outboard return spring.

• Remove the adjusting screw spring.

• Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

• Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw and nut.

• Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

• Remove both parking brake shoes and the inboard return spring.

• Check the parking brake lever for excessive wear and replace as necessary.

To install:

• Position the front parking brake shoe to the backing plate and install the hold-down pin and spring.

• Install the rear parking brake shoe with the inboard return spring.

• Position the brake shoe adjuster screw and nut on the shoes and install the rear shoe hold-down pin and spring.

• Install the brake shoe adjuster spring.

• Install the outboard return spring.

• Adjust the parking brake shoes and install the rotor, caliper and wheel.

• Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).

ADJUSTMENT

• Measure the inside of the drum portion of the rear brake rotor

• Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

• Using Brake Adjustment Gauge D81L-1103-A or equivalent, measure the inside diameter of the drum portion of the rear disc brake rotor.

• Subtract 0.020 in. (0.508mm) from the first measurement, adjust the brake shoes to that size

• Adjust the parking brake adjuster screw until the outside diameter of the parking brake shoes measures 0.020 in. (0.508mm) less than the drum measurement.

• Install the rear disc brake rotor.

Reassembly Reassembly is easy. Put new or machined rotors back on by sliding them over the lugs (they should slide on easily.) Loosen bleeder valve (having a catch bottle handy is good). Push calipers in slowly (using a c-clamp or large channel lock pliers), close bleeder valve. Put on pads. Lubricate metal clips with small amount of anti-seize. Re-adjust the emergency brake by turning the opposite direction from loosening. Refill the brake master cylinder

The steps of replacing cartridge with a new one.

1) First You keep the printer power on. Open the printer cover - you will find the cartridges holder will come in proper place (the position varies printer to printer) so that you can easily remove the old cartridge.

2) Press gently the upper front portion of the cartridge you want to remove out of the printer holder - you will find it will be unlocked - just remove the cartridge carefully. (in some printer there is a cover on top of the cartridge holder which you can open to perform the step 2.

3) Unpack the new cartridge.

4) Don't forget to remove the plastic tape from the cartridge head (Ex.in HP, Lexmark cartridges etc).

5) Look the printer holder and look to the cartridge - you can easily decide the position of the cartridge in the holder.

6) Gently and carefully  put the cartridge in the holder - press the upper portion of the cartridge from front side - the cartridge will be locked autometically in the holder.

7) Put the printer cover in proper place. 

8) Print Now - it will print test page first. Now print as usual.

I hope the solution is helpful to you. Thanks for using fixya.com.

Clean all old paste off then apply new paste and put back what ever was there before back.

Installation of the Molding
Take the Molding Trim whether it is stock black or painted. Mine is black because my car is a year 2000. Painted side moldings were done in the year 2001. Snap them into place.
5 Installation of the Rubber Gaskets
From the stock bumper, retrieve the upper rubber gaskets unless you ordered new ones. Simply take a screw driver and pry a corner off to get you started. Wash thoroughly. NOTE which one belongs on which side.
Place the rubber gasket on the M5 Front Bumper onto its appropriate side. Top The M5 Bumper is now Fully Assembled!!! Place aside where it can't be damaged.

need to buy a "paper separation pad kit" once you get the new pad,remove the toner cartridge and with a long phillips screwdriver remove two screws that holds the paper feed roller,remove the roller and now you have a full view of the separation pad,with a little flat screwdriver PEEL the rubber from both separation pads the old inside the printer and the new one you just got,put the new rubber sep pad in the printer and put the paper feed roller back.....printer will work as new again....

You have a broken belt. Turn the vacuum over and remove cover plate. You will probably find a broken rubber belt. Buy a new belt for your vacuum. Remove the brush , install the new belt with the brush. Put cover plate back on. You are ready to go!

Jim