Hi, Tim, moisture, condensation, rain, or bike washing can make the bike run sluggish, not able to rev, and misfire. Older bikes, engine configuration, and exposed electrical components are at the front of the line for acting up. During the diagnostic procedure spray Electrical Contact Cleaner on corroded wire connectors/pins/sockets etc. and apply a liberal amount of "DIELECTRIC" grease to the mating harness/wire connectors. WD40 works great for eliminating suspect areas in your quest to find the real offending gremlin.
For additional insurance you can spray a High Temp Clear Coat on the most vulnerable areas it will work like Scotch Guard does on fabric. Fabricate a rubber or plastic splash guard to deflect water coming off the front wheel getting to the front cylinder spark plugs. The design should be adequate for its purpose with the least amount of airflow restriction to cool the cylinders. The usual suspects are:
1. Air filter soaked with water.
2. Water in the fuel system gas tank and carburetors.
3. Wet ignition coil packs.
4. Spark plug boots wore out or loose allowing water to enter.
5. Spark plug cables old and cracked check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Spark plug wells filled up and drain holes clogged.
7. Water in a wire harness that has exposed open ends and have a sharp bend or crimp allowing the liquid to form its own pool of potential threats to chaffed wiring.
8. Sensitive fuel tuners and downloaded ECM remaps may get confused with the abnormal cylinder temperature difference in a V-4 engine configuration.
9. Fuel injected bikes need to have the electrical connectors removed and sprayed with contact cleaner then blown dry and checked for continuity with a test light or multimeter, then treated with Dielectric Grease.
If your bike will not run right or even start after going through the checklist, despair not, letting it sit for a couple of days in a warm environment is like an eviction notice for the Gremlins and then your bike will be back to its old self. You can speed up this process by using forced air to dry out electrical connections.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.totalmotorcycle.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=4566 Bike Sputters backfires dies help 07 SB Harley Davidson Forums ManualsLib Makes it easy to find manuals online Sale on Motorcycle Parts ATV UTV parts Honda Kawasaki Motorcycle Owners Manuals MyBikeManuals com
Hi, remove the screw at the rear of the seat. Assuming the bike has the stock seat, lift the rear of the seat clear of the spigot on the fender, pull back towards the back to release the tang at the front of the seat. If the seat strap is still in place, twist the seat and pull it out of the strap. Re-fitment is the reverse order.
at the bottom of the carb you will have a drain plug/screw find youreself a piece of clear fuel pipe that fits the outlet on bottom of carb bowl attach then hold vertical without creasing the pipe then open the serew the fuel should roughly be halve way up the float chamber in the pipe
The only motorcycle I know with reverse is the Honda Goldwing, and I doubt it would not go forward. I am thinking your mystery object is some type of electric child's ride-on toy. My guess is that there is either a wire off the switch, or the forward/reverse switch is faulty.
Hi, J and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. The Ultimate GY6 Starter Ignition Troubleshooting Tutorial http://scootdawg.proboards.com/thread/39999/gy6-start http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf 150cc 125cc GY6 Scooter Parts 4 stroke Chinese and Asian scooter parts... https://absolutelyscooters.net/pdf/CGEN_dawg_scooter_manual.pdf
the negatives are connected and the positives are connected together , lay the batteries in the holder and the wire harness on top , it should sort of lay where it wants, batteries are connected to double the voltage , 2 12v battery together make 24v
Hi, Tom if your headlight is not working, intermittent, only one beam works, keeps burning out, blinking, dim or surges from bright to dim to bright the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your headlight bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to the headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.
3. Worn, chafed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
4. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
5. Faulty hi/low beam switch.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
8. Faulty headlight relay.
9. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
10. Weak charging alternator/generator/lighting coil
11. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Why is my Tao Tao scooter headlight shorting out Headlight keeps blowing even with new regulator http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf https://www.taotaopartsdirect.com/collections/atm-50-a1?page=3 TaoTao ATM50 A1 Owner Manual
Hi, Sean, you need to perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging and it must be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test you may have cursory readings of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries have this issue more so than lead-acid types.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. The meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your multimeter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe multimeter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up the multimeter to the battery set it to DC volts and start the engine if multimeter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test the voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With the multimeter set to the ohms scale, with one lead grounded, touch an alternator pin ohmmeter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With both leads touching alternator pins, multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the multimeter set on AC volts scale, both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPM. If not replace the rotor.
12. Check for excessive wattage load from the headlight
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. How to do Parasitic Battery Drain Test Testing Your Battery for Parasitic Load How to Find Parasitic Battery Drain How to diagnose fix parasitic draw on your motorcycle The BEST Way TO Perform Parasitic Draw Test
Heritage Day is a South African public holiday celebrated on 24 September. On this day, South Africans are encouraged to celebrate their culture and the diversity of their beliefs and traditions, in the wider context of a nation that belongs to all its people. WikipediaDate: Tuesday, September 24, 2019 Observed by: South AfricansPeople also search for