Power Motorcycles - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Could be the starter button itself or the kill switch. Make sure the kill switch is in the run position, turn on the ignition and get everything ready to fire the engine up. Follow the black cable from the battery and locate your starter solenoid. There should be an in and out to it, the cable from your battery will be bolted to the in and right next to it is another cable bolted the same way to the out. Take a screwdriver and short across these 2 connection posts and it should fire up. If it starts, then I would suspect the starter button is at fault. If it doesn't then I would suspect the kill switch. When shorting across, only do it for a very short time and don't let the screwdriver touch the frame. This isn't the only way and it doesn't definitely mean that it is the cause, but it is a good indicator.

Lack of fuel or idle air mixture isn't adjusted

Check your spark plug, when changing from a stock exhaust, other things must be addressed also spark plug, carb jets, and timing. Hi performance comes at a price...usually high, good luck If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_4c166ba81493f541

There are a couple of things that could be happening here, assuming you've checked the fuse. Firstly your battery might be almost out of charge, so there is enough power to throw the relay but not turn the starter. Secondly your starter motor could be jammed. To test this, first fully charge your battery or use a jump pack, if that doesn't work, then attach your start motor directly to a battery by putting the positive terminal on the bolt on the motor and the negative on the starter motor body. If still nothing happens then remove your starter motor and try the same again. If it fails to turn, you'll need to replace it. If it turns then there is a fault in the wiring between the relay and the motor.

Hi Francis: Power needs to get to spark plug so you'll need to check the ignition electrics sequence. Battery to ignition switch (key) Power should be available to ignition. Use voltmeter to trace. Make and model info would help as systems are different depending on age of bike. Cheers.

Go to the auto zone in your area and ask them you rquestion.

unless you have a misfire on the rear cylinder and as the two run of the same crank shaft this statement would be hard to pinpoint Have a compression done on the engine to determine a drop in pressures move the front injector (EFI) to the rear if EFI have the fault codes read IF carbureted with with a carby for each pot have the carbies tuned professionally have the bike run a on a bike dyno for a power test

Hi Kim: Since this is a new bike I would not waste any time trying to find out what is wrong. I would take it back to the dealer or store where it was purchased and ask for a replacement.

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Ironhead 59 XLH Refurb [Archive] - The Sportster and Buell ...

xlforum.net > ... > Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985)
Sep 18, 2014 - 100+ posts - ‎38 authors I finished test fitting all the parts at the end of August and broke the bike ... I use lowVOC House of Kolor paints, have a great respirator, and take my time. ... Now, it's time to ship stuff out for plating; send the speedo out, build new ..... So, I spend $50 more then a full on rebuild; but I value my time at $50/hr.

Ironhead ultima electronic ignition [Archive] - The Sportster and ...

xlforum.net > ... > Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985)
May 30, 2009 - 100+ posts - ‎29 authors I put the Ultima Single Fire on my 1981 XLH and I´m very happy. ... My best guess is that the cam cover isn't sitting straight anymore, so the cam is rotating off center. ...Now you still need that hundred dollar programming cable, right? .... But I believe if you set dual vs single spark, dead crank revs, the curve ...

Phil's Podium Of The Automotive Pure: Te

Try this site: www.officialharleyparts.com

If you adjusted idle to spec with the choke on, you need to do it again with a fully warm engine. Try turning up the idle with the choke on, to around 3k rpm, then see if you can back off on the choke. You have a fueling issue - have you done carbs before? there are internal passages and settings that must be cleaned and adjusted.

check clutch cable adjustment as it sounds like the clutch is slipping

main fuse blown or an ignition switch wire has pulled out ?

Check for parisitic drain of battery. Turn of key and accessories. Disconnect battery ground and connect test light between battery ground and disconnected wire. If test light illuminates you have parisitic drain. Remove fuses one at a time, when light goes out you have found the faulty circuit.

Terminals probly not tite enough or batt is not at 12.6v. Coil ignitions are sensitiv

LCD screen is fubar .

Because you wet components that do not take lightly to water. Let it dry out and see what happens. If the dry out does not do the trick then you have inadvertently damaged some components in bike's electrical system.

If it works while riding, don't worry about it.

Main fuse?.. Battery connection, main start relay?

Likely blockage in carb- Check all channels and orifices with fish line or thin wire. clean carefully