Power Motorcycles - Page 8 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


If you adjusted idle to spec with the choke on, you need to do it again with a fully warm engine. Try turning up the idle with the choke on, to around 3k rpm, then see if you can back off on the choke.
You have a fueling issue - have you done carbs before? there are internal passages and settings that must be cleaned and adjusted.

Power... | Answered on Dec 02, 2015


Hi Luan here are a few things you might check:
1. oil contaminated muffler/expansion chamber.
2. Fuel tank or gas cap not venting.
3. Faulty ignition coil or connections
4. Consider upgrading your TVC setting it applicable.
For more information about your issue please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


Power... | Answered on Dec 01, 2015


Check for parisitic drain of battery. Turn of key and accessories. Disconnect battery ground and connect test light between battery ground and disconnected wire. If test light illuminates you have parisitic drain. Remove fuses one at a time, when light goes out you have found the faulty circuit.

Power... | Answered on Nov 15, 2015


Hi Koale, check your system relay for continuity and I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Harley Davidson but despair not for a mere $7 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below, and for specific information or questions, please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a nice day. Harley Davidson Manuals Mark Workshop

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Power... | Answered on Nov 13, 2015


Hi, Anonymous the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, O2, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. . Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
10. Fuel tank empty.
11. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
12. A faulty Fuel Pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
13. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl. Good luck and have nice a day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Power... | Answered on Nov 12, 2015


Hi, J for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix or parts inquiry. If necessary transport your vehicle to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. Good luck and have a nice day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Power... | Answered on Nov 12, 2015


Hi, Patrick the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, O2, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. . Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
10. Fuel tank empty.
11. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
12. A faulty Fuel Pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
13. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Power... | Answered on Nov 12, 2015


Hi, William you may have a spun sprocket shaft and for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix or parts inquiry. If necessary transport your vehicle to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. For more information about your issue please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Power... | Answered on Nov 12, 2015


Hi, Mark and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely drained or faulty battery.
2. Faulty regulator/rectifier or high output coil.
3. Faulty power valve, solenoid or installation.
4. Clogged air filter or exhaust.
5. Cracked or incorrect float level.
6. Float needle is not seating.
7. Faulty reed valve.
For more information about your question please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://www.tradebit.com/filesharing.php/search/0/2008+gilera+runner+st+125

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Power... | Answered on Nov 12, 2015


Hi, Ben the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, O2, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. . Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
10. Fuel tank empty.
11. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
12. A faulty Fuel Pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
13. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
Good luck and have nice a day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Power... | Answered on Nov 12, 2015


Hi, Mark and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
5. Security alarm needs a reset.
6. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Electric starter shaft pinion gear is not engaging or over-running starter clutch slipping.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
Ridley Motorcycle Manuals Documents for Ridley Auto Glide and Speedster...

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Power... | Answered on Nov 11, 2015


Hi, Austin and the usual suspects are:
1. Throttle cables misaligned or misrouted.
2. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
3. Inlet system air leak.
4. Vacuum piston malfunction.
5. Accelerator pump leaking or no output.
6. Plugged bowl vent.
7. Fuel level in bowl too low.
8. Restricted fuel supply passages.
9. Plugged jets or passages.
10. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
12. The enricher valve not seated or leaking.
Good luck and have a nice day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Power... | Answered on Nov 10, 2015


Hi, James for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix or parts inquiry. If necessary transport your vehicle to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. Good luck and have a nice day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Power... | Answered on Nov 10, 2015


Hi, Scott and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
5. Security alarm needs a reset.
6. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Electric starter shaft pinion gear is not engaging or over-running starter clutch slipping Good luck and have nice a day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Power... | Answered on Nov 07, 2015


Hi, Jason and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
5. Security alarm needs a reset.
6. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Electric starter shaft pinion gear is not engaging or over-running starter clutch slipping.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
Suzuki Katana 600 2006 service manual DOWNLOAD FREE FULLMANUALS COM

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Power... | Answered on Nov 05, 2015


Hi, Colin and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
2. Inlet system air leak.
3. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
4. Dirty or damaged air cleaner element.
5. The accelerator pump is inoperative.
6. Vacuum piston assembly malfunction.
7. Enrichner valve is not seated or leaking.
8. Restricted fuel supply tract.
9. Plugged bowl vent.
10. Loose or plugged fuel and air jets or passages.
11. Improper fuel level.
12. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
13. Loose or plugged main jets or passages.
For more information about your issue please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.tradebit.com/filesharing.php/search/0/kawasak+gtr+1000

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Power... | Answered on Nov 02, 2015


Hi, Louis for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix or parts inquiry. If necessary transport your vehicle to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. For more information about your issue please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Power... | Answered on Nov 02, 2015


Hi Jim, check for continuity at your hi/low beam switch. Good luck and have a nice.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Power... | Answered on Oct 29, 2015

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