2007 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi Don does the bike jump forward as of the clutch wasn't working? If so the clutch is stuck. To fix put thd bike in high gear and hold in the clutch push the bike back and forward with the help of a friend until it frees up. If this is not the problem check the side stand switch it might be faulty. If you have a doubt about the switch join the two wires together temporary to test. Regards Jim...

Question moved from Cars and Trucks to Model Category. Check out the videos. https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+yamaha+v-star+1100+clutch+won%27t+disengage ..

If you do not want to drain the oil, lay the bike (CARFULLY!) down on its left side.. let the oil settle down, Remove the right case, carefully clean ALL the gasket material off the engine case and the cover! make sure there are no dents, dings, scratches, etc on either surface!! Get some quality gasket sealer - NOT ANY FORM OF SILICONE SEALANT!!! I prefer yamabond #4. CARFULLY PUT A small BEAD around the face of the outer case cover face and place the NEW GENUINE OEM GASKET onto the case and make sure its seated fully around the case, you can use the screws to hold it in place until it dries. WAIT until overnight and it fully dried and seated/sealed. Now, carefully put a small amount of good heavy grease on the gasket then carefully install the case ..tightening in a criss-cross pattern until completely seated, then fully tighten all fasteners. If you do it right,, it will NOT leak!

Pull the starter and examine the starter drive and/or actuating so,enoid. The starter gear should easily move in and out. You can bench test the starter too. You may have to replace it.

oil temp or oil pressure light? as if its oil temp id be looking for a obvious covering of something on the oil cooler , and then a possible fault in the switch for this if all else was ok if its oil pressure , was the proper oil type used and no additives , ive seen many folks use a different oil or additives in there bikes and then have oil pressure problems , the proper viscosity is very important to such a small circ system

Fuel line issue, maybe sucking air

That could be a bearing on the pushrod at the crank shaft. Better get it checked before it throws a rod.

change the clutch and steels , they are really easy to do , even go on youtube to see how it is done , 1/2 hour job

Several possibilities here. You could have a bad ground connection somewhere in the start circuit. The starter itself could have a problem (Worn brushes, etc.) or the starter button assembly could have some corrosion. You will have to check out each situation to know exactly where the problem is. Start with the ground connections as those are often the problem on motorcycles with "slow" starters.

congratulations...you have the single most common 30k mile failure on these bikes. It happened to me as well, it will take time and patience to do it yourself. The below is a link to the service manual I used. http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/V-StarShopManual99-07.pdf Regarding timing....be careful not to move the cam chain during removal of the flywheel/clutch and reassembly. one move of it, and you will be messing with the timing for another hour or so. You can rotate the engine with a breaker bar on the flywheel until a pinhole on the cam gear lines up with the hole behind the gear, and push a nail/allen key into the holes to keep the cam gear from moving. I do suggest this. This next link is to the timing procedure. http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/V-star%201100%20Timing%20Procedure.pdf I would also suggest using a digital camera as you go through the process photographing what "right" looked like as you disassemble the bike. it adds a bit of time to the teardown, but it made things a snap having a great reference on reassembly. If you did not get a gasket for the cover, you could either buy one, or, get the gasket material and cut it yourself. If you decide to cut your own gasket (either from felpro material or cereal box), make the bolt holes first, then cut/hammer the edges out. my clutch cover on my vstar is handmade, and is still running fine after the starter clutch replacement. (replaced starter clutch at about 35k, and now have 52k on the bike.

YOU MUST NOT JUMP A MOTORCYCLE. CAR, VAN AND TRUCK BATTERIES WILL FRY YOUR BATTERY. If you are lucky by crossing the leads you might have only made the battery die. Get a new battery regardless. Please note: - WHEN YOU REMOVE THE BATTERY REMOVE THE NEGATIVE LEAD FIRST. I would check all fuses next followed by a good look at the the wiring around the battery area. If you can get close to the rectifier/regulator (I know it sounds strange) see if you can smell a burnt almost fishy type smell. If you can then the rect/reg is probably fried too. When you have got and filled the new battery charge it (ONLY USE A DEDICATED MOTORCYCLE BATTERY CHARGER A CAR ONE WILL FRY IT). ALSO WHEN YOU REFIT THE BATTERY CONNECT THE POSITIVE LEAD FIRST. Hope this helps to some degree.

Replace the solenoid under the seat

You can connect a good battery to thr dead one and it will give tour charger a battery to charge until your dead battery gets some charge. You can now safely disconnect the good battery./

sounds like a short circuit to me, have you put the battery on backwards by any chance or duff battery,sounds more like crossed wires to me

It is unlikely the clutch plates are sticking. Recheck the side stand switch. More than likely if it has oil and the stand switch is good , your problem is the clutch safety switch on the handle bar.

Is this in all gears or only first? My VZ1600 won't pull past 80 in first gear, that is when the rev limiter goes on.
Try not to automatically assume it is the spark plug. It could be the air filter, they cause all sorts of problems if clogged.
From the diagram they look to be in the tops of the cylinders, if you can't easily see them they may have a cover over them. Or it might be a tank off job.

I guess you mean to change the tire? To remove the wheel to change the brakes? To remove the wheel to replace it as it's been damaged in an accident? In all cases listed you still have to get the rear wheel off the motorcycle. On a good level hard surface clear of debrise and other things in the way you can put a floor jack under the right side, as close to the rear wheel as the exhaust and other partss allows. With the jack in place and jacked to where it's just starting to lift the bike, check to see that you can get to all the things that you'll need to do to get the wheel off. As the bike is lifted it'll lean over on the kickstand, and the rear wheel will raise off the ground. I usally do this so it the bike were to fall over it'll just go up against the wall. Put a blanket or pillow over the controls on the handle bars and even strape them on so they'll be there mif you need them to work. You'll need to raise the wheel at least 6 inches to get enough room to get it out so check to see if you can get it this high and then let it down and jack it back up to be sure you an do it. without troble dropping the bike as with the wheel removed it's a problem. If you an't seem to get the bike high enough with out risk of going over to get it high enough you can put a block ( a big one ( board)). under the kickstand and then jack it up. It's best to do all this with a halper, or a motorchle lift or jack that you might not have. A automotive transmisswion jack will work too. With the wheel just off the ground or still touching, loosen and remove the large axel bolt. Before you start you'll need to be sure that you have a wreanch big enough to do this as some of the newwer bikes don't come with tool kits that have the nessary wreanches. bikebandit.com will have a breakdown picture of your rear wheel assembly and exploded veiw. Pay attention to where all the washers and spaCERS GO AS PUTTING IT TOGETHER WITH OUT THEM ALL IN THE RIGHT SPOTS IS DANGEROUSE AND CAN PERMANLY DAMAGE THE HUB AND WHEEL. The breake dist or drum will have to be addessed. With the spacers and axel removed jack up the bike and the wheel will come out the bottom the break sort of slides off ( if it's disk) and the drum break can be left in after the arm and the rod are removed. The wheel just pulls out of the drive. and drops out.

First check you fuel filter . Bad, old gas can cause the filter to clog. If it is clear, then just drain the gas from the line you already pulled the filter from. Refill the tank with freah gas adding two ounces of sea foam per gallon of gas. If it fires up then it was bad gas and the sea foam will clean out any other **** the bad fuel left behind.

Yes , to get rid of the flat spot that you get from opening up the exhaust system, you will have to put in a jet kit. Cobra and Dyna Jet make make good kits for $60 to $100. Another product replaced at this time is the air filter. A K&N air filter will create more air for better breathing.

The one way clutch that engages the starter motor to the flywheel is chattered or damaged and needs to be replaced. The starter motor turns a small gear that is connected to a large gear by a small chain. On the side of the big gear is a smooth machined surface that the one way clutch grabs when the starter is engaged. The surface is chattered and the three grabber rollers wont jam or grab on the surface unless it is smooth therefore the starter spins but the motor does not. You will probably have to replace the large gear and possibly the three rollers also.