2007 Yamaha V Star Classic - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

One potential issue that might be keeping your motorcycle from starting up is a clogged petcock. The petcock is a fuel control valve. It controls the gas flow between off, on, and reserve settings. More information about nmax

I think you need to get a proper factory service manual for this. I found a manual for your bike here - http://myxmanuals.com/downloadview-details-550-Yamaha_Dragstar_VStar_XVS650_K_KC_97_Owners_Manual.html

Check Neutral Switch plate. 90% leak will be from there. Star 650 Neutral Switch Oil Leak Fix

make sure your cables are not binding up somewhere. sounds like the throttle is sticking open. nothing to do with the trans.

the noise you are hearing is trans gear roll over clatter and is normal on this cycle, make sure the the crankcase is full and also make sure the engine is at the correct idle speed, slow idle can make this much louder.

They hid it from you! On the opposite side that the drain plug is on, there will be a cover that needs to be removed in order to get to the oil filter. Here is a link to a picture that shows the exploded assembly for what you will be dealing with. The oil filter is item number 38. That should be enough to get you going!

Engine oil and transmission are common on all but a very sparce few 4 cycle motorcycles.

they have a part two of the video as well

Hi, presuming you have undone the rear axle nut, undo the brake hub stabalising bar, note order of parts removed, undo and remove brake opperating device, cable or rod, support machine remove the rear axle complete, a spacer is fitted between the brake drum and the rear suspension arm, remove this, you will then have sufficiant room to remove the wheel, from the right side of the bike, grasp the wheel top and bottom and pull the wheel away from the drive shaft, some machines the whole wheel, hub and driveshaft are removed as a unit by undoing the bolts securing the rear diff to the bike, and pulling back untill the driveshaft is removed from the engine, the two are then separated by pulling or tapping apart

A motorcycle lift is always helpful. When desperate I have backed my cycle over the back of a curb onto boards, jacked up under the back, and removed the boards to gain tire dropping height. Raise the back of the bike high enough that you can drop the wheel out the bottom of the wheel well other wise you may have to take off a saddlebag , loosen the rear axle nut, take out the bolt, knock out the spacer , lift the caliper assembly out of the way and hang it by a wire, grab the wheel, and slide the wheel sideways away from the final drive. The wheel should slide right off the spline of the final drive and roll out the back under the fender. If the wheel wont slide past the final drive let the air out of the tire. Be sure to coat the spline of the final drive with moly60 paste from your local Honda dealer when reassembling.

Your right about the fuel injection versus the carborater and your also advised right to go to the open pipes and ait inlet the jeting or the computer will have to be adjusted to reset the mixture so the engine dowes'nt back fire and hesatate. and generally run ratty. Your star is likly to have a carb and it's also likly to be jetted OK for the open pipes already. It'll likly run even if it's off just how bad is yet to be seen. Most of the time it'll idel but after that the problems start as you open the gas. Sputter and stall right off idel are common, even hi cruise ( steady fast idel) will back fire and even set the carb on fire as it stalls. If this happens restart the bike right away as the fire will be scucked rright back inside the engine. A stage 1 or even stage II jet kit can be bought from bikebandit.com. Following the instructions that com with the kit you can tune out all these bad trates that the loud itake and loud exhaust cause. If you've never ridden a loud bike before and I'd advise rinning one first as the excessive load on your ears and your tictet level at the pay window at the police station may have you wishing you never fooled with it.. The loud pipes will give you the impression of more power but it really gives you an uneven power brand that the V-Star makers worked so hard to get and pass exhaust rules. I also noticed a loud piped 1100 star tried to gun me down the road the other day and with all my camping gear and my wife on the back of my 650 Suzuki I managed to run right with him as he ran his bike as hard as he could. If the mufflers were right he'd have run off and left me. Before I would ( fix )this bike this way I'd make some timed runs with it to see just how fast it is now. Get someone holding the clock to start you at one pole and have him at the next pole to stop the clock. Make a few runns so you can get your best time.. You might have to run it a few times to find the best way to go the fastestest. If you can get times about the same ( inside of 1 /10 sec. Then after you (work) on it make sure the ( repairs) did'nt kill the speed. Top speed at the second pole will also work but it's not as good of an indication on whats happening. Do your test at a place where you know you can come back ti it later, and nor get arrested for running as fast as you can. 0-60 is also a good test except it's hard to clock it good and or the distance to get there as expensive equipment is needed to get meaningful results. A little off in recording the results is alot of performance difference. bikebandit.com and cheapcycleparts.com can both sell you a repair manual by Clymer ( aftermarket publishing co.) that'll give you ideas and pictures of the repair procedures to help you work on your bike. Pay attention to the speciel tools and workshop work areas they recommend as their right ( for sure). Any job you get into and you can't finish it put it all the way back together. as it does'nt save any time at all as parts get misplaced and your memoery may not remenber just how it goes and the next thing you know your having to hire the work done and I charge alot more if it's been took apart not by me.

For the final drive oil you can use any 80/90 Hypoid gear oil. If you choose a synthetic Hypoid gear oil your rear end will run cooler. One quart of oil is enough for 4 or 5 rear end oil changes. Because the rear ends are so expensive (around $1000), I change my rear end oil every other engine oil change.

try running it with rear rasied to pinpoint noise

if not a cable version, not really

Choke might be stuck open or linkage is in a bind. Or its just running too rich.

Follow your ignition wires; they go right to the spark plugs. If the bike is fitted with coil packs look for them on the heads; the plugs will be underneath them.

Hi,

Thank you for contacting fixya.com.

Fault code No. 22 Symptom Air temperature sensor: open or short circuit detected.

1. Air temperature sensor coupler, Main wire harness ECU coupler... Check the coupler for any pins that may have pulled out. Check the locking condition of the coupler. If there is a malfunction, repair it and connect the coupler securely.

2. Open or short circuit in wire harness. Repair or replace if there is an open or short circuit between air temperature sensor coupler and ECU coupler.(Brown/White, Brown/White)(Black/Blue, Black/Blue)

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

there should be no fuse for the turn signals, just 2 main fuses that should be resting near the seat coming off the frame of the bike

The final drive has a spline shaft. Raise the rear wheel off the ground , loosen the rear axle nut, take out the axle bolt, knock out the spacer , unbolt the rear brake caliper and hang it so you do not stress the brake hose ( unhook the brake rod and unbolt the stabilizer rod for drum brakes) , grab the wheel, and slide it sideways away from the final drive. The wheel should slide right off the spline of the final drive and roll out the back under the fender. If the wheel won't slide past the final drive let the air out of the tire. Be sure to coat the spline of the final drive with moly60 paste from your local Honda dealer when reassembling.

Check first if the LED if voltage required to operate it is 12 volts. See if you can do a circuit directly from the battery to the fuse to the LED terminals if it would still blow just to test if you have the correct rating for the LED. I am suspecting you may have a short somewhere. Check your wiring for loose connection, exposed conductors or terminals, you used the bike metal parts as ground and exposed conductors from you circuit will cause a short.