2007 Yamaha Ybr 125 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

just change the ignation coil thats a common problem on ybr ,it has happen to and that what i did

Concentrate on the front indicator. With a meter check you have an intermittent supply with the ignition on and left indicator selected. If its ok, it will be an earth (ground) problem. Check using a temporary earth wire from the indicator unit to the chassis. If no voltage found at indicator bulb, trace the supply cable back to source.

There should be a black wire this goes to earth (chassis/frame) this will connect to the bulb holder. The yellow wire connects to to the stop lamp side of the bulb the other wire blue? goes to the taillight side of the bulb. If you google ybr125 wiring diagram there are lots on line.

I don't know this machine but if it is any help on my Yamaha TW125 the seat is held by 2 6mm bolts underneath. The top rail of the sub-frame has 2 small plates that the bolts go thru. Try looking under the seat from the chain side use a torch and you should find the answer I hope. Good luck.

Hi sounds like your nearly there ,try swapping hose around ,I once mixed the in and out ,next did you take the carbs apart and clean ,also a small shot of wd 40 in to the fuel pump without hose connected then pour out ,from what I read sound pretty good kid best of luck

the fuel pump is most likely seized from setting too long. fuel injectors could be clogged as well.

gday ian did you wash your bike before you put it away it could be the kill switch terminals could be dirty or your conecters give all a spray with wd 40 or what ever brand you have or you can use a special spray for electrical parts also it may pay to check the earthing to the frame as sometimes this can get a build up behind .if not it sounds like a job for the dealer or a auto electrician .hopes this helps cheers

wot should it rev to at max revs ? is 4th gear top gear , if so are the sprockets original size as a smaller rear spocket will make it go faster but you can loose top revs in top gear and if carbs etc havent been adjusted to cope with this !

Fuel does "go off" but it won't happen in just 4 weeks. But, the battery will lose some of its charge in that time. Charge the battery and try again. Good luck.

side stand warning sensor, bypass it or service it

cor that reminds me of old days when we used to disconnect our front break light switch so the police could not see you breaking when your speedingany way try looking under your front break lever you will find two wires going into it just where the switch gear clamp is failing that probably the problem lies inside your headlight

Seat should remove by using key which releases a latch. As for an alarm I would recommend a manually installed bike immobilizer instead. Cheaper and more effective unless all you are looking for is a way to make noise.

If the stator needs to be replaced, get a new one. Rewinding would cost you much more. Have a different shop check the problem. Stators usually last the life of the bike.

1 service 600 miles 2 service 500 or 1 year and ones a year there after that hope this helps

It should be 0.07-0.08 mm.Cheers

Your alternator is generating 14.1 Vdc to chargwe your battery and when the bike is running it will also do the same except the voltage regulator will keep it stabilized to around 12.2 -12.4 Vdc. In saying that check your voltage regulator function. Cheers

Are you sure the 2008 YBR even has a carburettor ? I thought the YBR went fuel injection from 2007.

If you can't afford to have it looked at by a garage, you need to buy the Haynes manual. They're very easy bikes to work on, and you'll just have to learn by doing.

Could be dirty fuel, dirty lines/carb/throttle body - check your fuel filter if you have one, and no harm to clean out the tank anyway.

Could be the plug is knackered - check the gap, and that it isn't messed up and sooty, could be the plug cap.

Could be the electrical side - start the bike on the stand, and give the big bunch of wires in the rubber jacket (behind the headlight) a good wiggle around. I had a problem there with a connector block melting, and the bike wouldn't go at all til I found it.

With the bike idling, spray something like WD40 or carburettor cleaner all around fuel intake side, esp where there are any rubber sleeves etc - if the bike revs pick up, you know there's an air leak somewhere. That would cause rough running at idle.

You need the manual ! Best of luck.

Generally there is a screw or screws on the back or somewhere to tighten the chain within a certain inch wise range.

take the cylinder head off take off the 2 caps at the top of the cylinder head . there you should see the top of the tappit and an ajustment bolt.get a feeler gauge you then need 2 open a vaulve by turning the cam sprocket ( remove rocker cover held in by 2 wratchet bolts left side top of engin) once valve is open ajust gap by turnig the bolt nt5ill u reach the right spacings sorry carnt tell you the spaceings dont know myself ask jeves of somwere like that should tell you though good luck is fun trust me

It is likely that your noise is coming from either the cam chain or rocker arms. As the engine gets hot, the oil gets alot thinner-especially if the oil is in need of change. This would explain the extra noise when it is hot.

First thing to check is the valve clearances to be sure they are within tolerance.(Intake:003-.004" an exhaust:.004-.006") Be sure to check the valves on a cool engine only.

If they are in spec, and you've got fresh oil in it, and the noise continues-next is the cam chain. You can check this by removing the valve cover from the top of the engine. You have an automatic adjuster on this bike, so there should be no slack in the cam chain. Specifically, check for slack on the rear side. If there is slack, you'll need to get your cam chain replaced.

If you've verified all the above, next thing to suspect is piston noise- usually from wear on the piston skirt. This can be verified by having a leakdown test done on the engine, since an engine with piston noise will also show alot of leaking past the rings. I hope this helps you out.

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