Hi there, i posted link to manual, just look carefully for download button, its small down the middle of the screen, let me know if you come right otherwise ill download it for you and just send you new link, the only reason i haven't done that yet is cause my net is slow but will if i really have to. :)
Hi, Dipsundar before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed, depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.quora.com/My-R15-bike-is-not-starting-Why https://www.r1-forum.com/threads/buzzing-noise-no-start.350503 Yamaha YZF R15 Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha Yamaha YZF R15A Owner Manual
quite likely either the killswitch shorted out or the starter solenoid has taken a dump. you can cross the posts of the solenoid with a screw driver with the ignition in the on position. if it starts then you have a bad starter solenoid.
Hi, Hugo it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light or CEL stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turnover or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity or adventures, laying the bike down or crashes, rainstorms or bike washings just before CEL light issues started can be significant hints or aids into tracking down the gremlin, also for 2003 and older models carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes and reduce the risk of being stranded or towed also keep in mind that your CEL comes to life if anything, and I do mean anything isn't 100% with the ECM like parameter spikes. This means that you could be staring at a major repair, or your speedometer sensor is contaminated and needs to be cleaned.
And the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery check the terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary, you should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Faulty charging system.
3. Faulty system sensor some models have up to 40 sensors
4. Faulty safety switches: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. The engine got wet where it didn't like to get wet.
6. Faulty ignition circuit spark plugs, coils, cables etc.
7. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. Run speedometer diagnostics and check for generated fault codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Motorcycle Dash Warning Lights https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0vC8yE3_Ls Yamaha XC125 Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha List of Yamaha motorcycles
Fire meaning run a second ok spray bottle w gas in it and air filter box tube off carb inlet have assistant to crank on your command.. spray 4 pumps of gas into carb inlet w grip wide open close grip have assistant crank bike if it starts be ready to pump a squirt of fuel erry 3 seconds . If it stays running doing this . Then you're carb idle circuit is clogged . Carb will be coming off fo cleaning. Kevin or dellorto or some brand of carb clearly marked ?
Hi, I would take it apart to free the clutch, there is another option that may work but thats up to you, put the bikes front wheel against a wall, put in gear hold the clutch in just to put presure on it, press the starter,all the best.
(Just to say I would always advise some one else to take it apart)
I once had an issue on my CB550 when I turned right I'd blow a fuse. It turned out there was a frayed turn signal cable. Every time I turned so far the wires shorted. Look for bare, or frayed wires near your left front turn signal.
You have a hole in the water jacket that surrounds your exhaust, usually on the bottom you cant find it till running on the lake or have water hooked to the engine for on land running the engine
FIX hook up the water at the back its a hose fitting and turn the water on it should cycle through the motor and exhaust possibly revealing hole but turn it on and it will start squirting some where?? take off the whole aluminum exhaust /water jacket, take it to a welder that does tig weld on aluminum , usually just a patch. back in and off ya go. OH And drain it more next time! avoid this with a good tilt...