20 Most Recent 2006 Yamaha V Star Classic - Page 6 Questions & Answers

If it has a glass window you tilt the bike upright as possible and the oil should go about 1/2 up the glass window. Other wise pull the oil filler cap it should have a dip stick attached to it. If it does you dip it until the threads touch the case not screw it in. Hope this helps

Can you feel it in the steering or in the back end? Check for loose bolts, nuts etc. on the spindles look for worn parts or dusting of metal from wearing. Are the brakes at one time heated by stopping , which in turn warps the rotors. The list is endless buddy. Need more info.

Wow this is a broad question can you narrow it down to Front or back When is the last time you checked the u joints for play they could be worn out if the bike has enough miles.

change out your ignition leads- they are deteriorated and the water causes them to short and arc

Quick Battery Removal on Harley Davidson Iron 883

You have major worked to do or buy a stop oil leak that might work ...good luck

http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/V-StarShopManual99-07.pdf The link will take you to a service manual, I suggest downloading it. Good info in it. First, If the oil came out of the breather, you need to find out if it was due to a faulty breather or through natural loss (you will lose gear oil over time through rapid temperature increase causing vapor and pressure increase-eventually oil loss will occur through the breather; synthetic oil can help reduce this, but so can regular level checks. If the breather is defective, replace with a new one (10-20 bucks depending on where you go) it is a press fit. Second, if it came out of the fill plug on the back of the gear case, check the threads on the gear case as well as the plug, if both are good, check the condition of the collar (brass/copper looking ring on the plug. If it is missing, that could contribute to the oil loss. When you reassemble, use teflon tape to ensure a good tight fit. (mine has teflon tape on there too-only use enough to coat the threads...if you use too much, the plug will not seat all the way due to the tape blocking the threads) Third, do the same check on the drain plug on the bottom. Reassemble with teflon tape on the plug. Finally, on page 272 of that same manual in the link, there are procedures to follow for checking the drive shaft seal for leaks by the case. Check it and replace seals if required.

Check you front break. The right side of the break might be compressing more than the left. If thats the case you will need to compress the breakpads evenly. If that was the problem you need to replace you pads. ...

find your local dealer or a bike breakers !

Because drag pipes will lean out the air/fuel mixture, due to (much) lower backpressure.If fuel injected, then yes, some sort of piggy-back programmer is needed, or reprogramming the bike's computer.

connections must be checked around the steering/lamp area

choke opens up the jets just a little more to squirt more fuel into the chamber during warm up, meaning YOU NEED TO USE THE CHOKE TO START YOUR BIKE!!!

make sure voltage is getting to the lightbulb socket, if it is not ck. the wiring and headlight switch. electrical problems sometimes make you pull hair out. find a test light, and electrical diagram for that model and begin your search. Don't forget to make sure the lighting system has a good ground.

NEED TO CHECK GAS LINE FOR LEAKS

Full choke, no throttle, clutch in stab starter for no more than 10 seconds each timeThe engine must be spinning over rapidly to startIf turned over too many times without starting the plugs will get wet, remove, clean, dry & replace