2005 Yamaha Road Star Midnight Silverado - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

STAB IN THE DARK HERE , BUT I WOULD BE LOOKING TO SEE IF THERE IS WATER INGRESS TO THE LIGHT SWITCH, THIS WOULD CREATE A SHORT AND TAKE THE FUSE OUT. SIMILARLY CHECK THE HEADLIGHT IS NOT LETTING WATER IN ONTO THE BULB CONTACTS.

The Road Star takes 4.3 qts which is 4.07 liters.

In my experience, MOST Yamaha engines have the oil capacity stamped either near the oil filler cap, or if it has one, near the fisheye inspection glass.

The best advice I have seen to date states the following: Having replaced and tightened the drain plug, remove the dipstick and puur in half the oil. Note that this bike has an oil tank, so having added 2 litres or so, put the dipstick back in and tighten it. Start the bike and allow it to run for around 15 seconds to allow the oil to pump from the oil tank to the engine crankcase. Shut the bike off and add the remaining oil before replacing the dipstick again and checking for leaks.

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Hi
Put fresh fuel in tank and put a carb cleaner like seafoam.
take it for a nice long ride.

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Put fresh fuel in and a carb cleaner like seafoam.
Take it for a good long ride and enjoy.

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thanks

With the key on.......

1) Push the select button and reset button together for at least two seconds.
2) When the hour digits start flashing push the reset button to set the hours.
3) Push the select button and the minute digits will start flashing.
4) Push the reset button to set the minutes
5) Push the select button and release it to start the clock.

Bearings break in and wear down over time. A good mechanic will adjust the steering stem bearings during the 600 mile check up. Make sure the bearings have grease. Snug up the nut so it is firm and reasonably tight (you do not want the bearings to bind) . If the steering is starting to bind back off till it turns smoothly. Hint : It is easier to feel firmness or binding if the wheel is off the ground when turning the bars.When there is a fine thread nut involved I do not think it is safe to use a torque wrench. Hand snugging can be enough to bind the system. Double check the feel after you put the wheel back down , you may have to tighten just a touch.

well,,,its sat at the back of the shop for a week or so,,,and all the guys wont to have a "play" with it??? plus did they think when you turned up
"here comes a right looking mug lads lets rip him off!" hell its only a plug on bit! go on the net and look on the makers sight,,,to see were the bit is fitted or look on e-bay for the manule,,,that part even in "rip off britain" wont cost that much,,if the battery is working hard and the charging is trying to keep the battery toped up the rectifier is working hard,, so it gets hot! that will kill if off fast,,,when you fit the new one on get the heavy duty one and put some "heat sink greas" on the back to help keep it cooler there about £100+,,not cheap? and its poted so you cant just fix it,,i bet its only one diod shorted out too? thats £2.!!!!

Your bike takes a little over 4qts of oil. The engine drain plug is located on the lower left front of the motor. The oil tank drain plug is located on the bottom of the oil tank, on the right side of the bike.
When refilling, put in about 2.5 quarts of oil in the tank and start the bike and run it for about minute and blip the throttle a few times. Then add the remainder of the oil. Run the bike to operating temperature (approximately 15 min) and allow it to idle for about 3 minutes. Then check the level after a minute or so and adjust as necessary.

maybee your overflow pipe is blocked

It is either the bulbs, the switch, or power to the switch, or a bad ground (wiring). Purchase a replacement bulb and see if it fixes the problem, if it does great, if not you have a spare bulb and you know to begin troubleshooting the power to the lamp. Hope this helps.


JP

http://216.37.204.206/xtremepowersports/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=509&B=1

Go here and they are $14.00 should be available at any Yamaha dealer.

First thing > install a new set of the stock NGK spark plugs for your bike. Clean or replace the air filter. Go ahead and drain the carbs. There should be a screw on the lower side of each carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carbs to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetors from the engine.

For both carbs > remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.

Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together. Remount the carbs.

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carbs to fill with gas. Be sure to balance and sync the carbs when finished. If you don't know how to balance and sync the carbs, get back to me after you do the stuff mentioned above. This process should get you back on the road.

The clicking may be the starter solenoid. Check for a dead battery or defective solenoid.

Charge the battery and give it a try. I would suggest that you turn it over with the plugs removed for about 30 seconds before you refit the plugs and try and fire it up. This will circulate oil round the cold engine and reduce the chance of wear on start up, as the internals will be dry. Once started you may like to do a complete minor service (oil, filters and check the brake fluid levels.)

is the battery flat?.start with that!!..if not..are the battery termanials done up tight on the battery...then check that solenoind termenals are done up...hope this helps

Do not run it in that condition because it is going to cost a lot more to fix if it goes completely. it sounds like a valve is dropped or a bearing spun or a rod is bent or a compression/oil ring may be broken-but ANY of those will be a lot cheaper if you do NOT start it again and either tear it down yourself if you know how, or get a certified mechanic to do so. Good luck!

Check the positive battery wire and see if there is an inline fuse. Many manufacturers put an inline fuse (normally called a fusible link) in the system to protect against a dead short to ground of the battery. Reversing the battery would also cause the link to blow. Follow the battery line and using a test light or multimeter, check that you have voltage at the other end of the battery cable.

If you do, then something has burned out. I would suspect something like the generator or something like that.

Let me know what you find.

How are you venting the caliper as force the piston back in....are you using the bleeder or trying to force the fluid back to master cylinder reservoir? Is there room in the reservoir for the fluid being pushed back? Safest way is using the bleeder.
Did you clean off the piston before trying to push it in?

This is a highly ill - eagle act to do. In the old days we would put an electric drill on the drive cable, but now they make them tamper proof so they only go one way. The bezels are crimped on so you can't get inside them. I expect modern one may be electronic. How will your insurance company know what mileage you have done? I have never known an insurance cancel or fine due to mileage. You should have just disconnected it when you got close to the limit. Buy a used one and use them for 6 months in turns. There are two or three here 23K and one with 36k https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+yamaha+sr125+speedometer ..