Top 20 2005 Yamaha Royal Star Tour Deluxe Questions & Answers

You don't

Buy a clymer for shopwork. Ur library has some

How to fix your check engine light engine light blinking then goes off Check Engine Light

Often a code will show up after involved work like you accomplished. I would reset it, if it doesn't come on again don't worry about it. Here's the procedure, read this thoroughly before doing it please; 1. Disconnect the positive wire off the battery. 2. Take the positive WIRE and ground it to the frame (use a jumper or screwdriver if necessary) Hold it there for about 30 seconds. This will erase the code and flash memory. 3. Hook the wire back onto the battery and start the bike. Expect a little rough idle while the computer relearns it's parameters, Easy. Of course follow all safety precautions about playing with batteries, that warning should keep all the attorneys in the world happy.

There is a round sight glass on the right side of the motor down low, near the front - you'll probably have to get on your hands and knees to see it. The bike must be held up vertically (not on the side stand) so you'll need someone to hold the bike up. It should also be level front to back and the oil level should be at about the halfway point between the top and bottom of the glass. Oil type recommended by Yamaha is SAE20W40. The site www.venturerider.org is a good resource for information on the Royal Star bikes. Be sure not to use automobile oil as most of those have "energy conserving" additives that will quickly ruin your clutch!! Stay with motorcycle specific oils to be on the safe side.

check the fuel cap,my 02 sportster did this,the cap needed replaced,also had the same issue with my 02 f-150 truck last month,also a dirty filter does this --and I have seen bad fuel do it,1 of these might fix it,,,,

Check for blockages in the fuel line, including the fuel filter

You need to replace the housing not the pump, the thermostat does nothing but open or close depending on the coolant temperature.

It should be left side just below the set. It is the starter relay solenode, all in one. If the positive side of the battery is going to the relay, then that is your solenode.

clean the carbs and fuel system etc , replace fuel and clean or replace plugs !

Changing (disc) brake pads on metric MCs is pretty simple. I would advise you to buy a shop manuel for your particular bike. The investment in a shop Manuel will probably save you lots of $$$. You'll find there's a whole lot of stuff you can do your self. Things are explained very clear and simple.

You can download it free from here:http://www.werder.ee/Manual/XVZ1300.pdf

The noise may be the classic Yamaha whine. I have had a Virago & Vstar1100, They all had various noises that came from within. You may notice the distinct whine/whistle at lower speeds and during acceleration. Seems to go away if you pull in the clutch or let off the throttle, not so noticable on the freeway. This appears to be a common phenomenon and I have seen it attributed to Clutch, transmission, and/or shaft on a lot of Yamaha bikes.
I hope this helps.

Simple tests:
1 - remove the bulb,and measure the resistance between the shroud of the socket (or the body of the bulb) and the body of the bike : if you get anything other than 0 you have a bad grounding connection. Dismantle the light and check every connector and then check the connector on the wheel cover - check for corrosion.
2 - press a brake lever and measure the voltage on the center plot of the bulb socket .
If you get 12 volts then something is wrong with the bulb or the socket - socket has got loose and the bulb no longer sits properly in it and it's not making contact with the center plot. Crimp the shroud of the socket a and lift the center plot a little more and try again.
If you get lower than 10 volts then you have a power wire connection issue. Follow it all the wayto the switches and find the break and fix it. Again look for corrosion.

Nope, it's false, bozo. Hope that satisfies your "curiosty"

The better thing would be to change the oil and filter now. Why wait to lessen the problem. Yes, it is water that is turning the oil a milky color. The real question is whether the water is just condensation or is it a water leak at the internal water pump. I'll bet this is the first time you ever prayed for condensation. Best wishes. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

I think you will find the tool kit should be behind the panel on the opposite side to the battery cover (Left side?). As far as a manual goes, you can find it chopped up into bite size chunks on the venturerider.org website uploaded there by someone:
http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/Manual/

The Royal Star crankcase lubricates engine, transmission and wet clutch at the same time, that's why frequent oil and filter changes are recommended. Use a high-quality multi-grade oil, 10W-30 in cold weather and 20W-40 in hot weather is recommended by the manufacturer. AVOID ANY OIL THAT SAYS ENERGY-CONSERVING (you'll see a seal on the bottle), that type of oil has a tendency to make the clutch slip. Personally, I recommend a multi-grade synthetic - I use Shell Rotella-T (T6) synthetic 5W-40 year-round, 111,000 miles since I changed from Mobil-1 0W-40 (9,000 on the Mobil-1) ; the engine's still tight, and the transmission and clutch are quiet.

The yellow wire is for direct battery power, red is ignition power, black is ground. Gray and Green are right channel speakers, the white and purple are left channel speakers.
Blue and orange are not needed.
Cruise control can fail because of a fuse, a relay, or a faulty switch. All which can be tested with a meter.

This applies to the Royal Star, Tour Deluxe, and Venture 1996 and up. Crankcase capacity is 3.7 US quarts (3.5 liters) without filter change, 3.9 US quarts with new filter. The clutch and transmission operate in the same oil; Yamaha recommends oil changes at 4,000 mile or 6 month intervals (whichever comes first), filters at alternate oil changes, but most tourers change filters whenever the oil is changed.

Oil, religion and politics are topics upon which there is considerable debate and no agreement; neither religion nor politics, however, will leave you stranded 50 miles from nowhere with a seized or galled bearing or broken gear or shaft. Poll tourers - I've found most take the advice of OTR truckers and buy the best synthetic oils they can find. Three names keep coming up - Mobil Delvac 1, Mobil-1 SUV and Shell Rotella T Synthetic. The last is available at Walmart for $19.00 a gallon, I use it in eveything - car, scooter, bike, lawnmowers, rototiller. The last car I got rid of was a Camry V-6 with 306,000 miles on it; I gave it to a nephew that needed a car and it's still being driven daily at U.T. Austin; mileage at last checkup - 355,000, and, except for spark plugs, I've yet to touch an engine component. The RSTD has 121,000 miles on the clock, and still strains a weak battery at start-up; I have no idea how long the engine may last.

To check the oil level, look for a glass window on the right side of the crankcase marked for high (max) and low (min) levels. Get on hands and knees, have somebody hold the bike upright, and look under the front crankcase cover directly beside the right operator's footrest; you'll probably need a flashlight to read it.