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2003 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic - Page 7 Questions & Answers
I have a 2003 Yamaha
I have a 650, there is no dipstick, just a sight glass. I believe that the two bikes are the same in this department. Also, the oil needs to be right in the center of that sight glass (it's on the left side, by where your foot goes). Also, the bike MUST be standing straight up to check the oil accurately; either on a jack/stand, or by having someone sit on it while you check it.
Yamaha v-star front signal flashes rapidly after bulb change
sounds like the replacement bulb is a lower wattage than the original...options are...replace with the correct bulbwire in a ballast resistorchange your flasher unit for an led compatable version(these have a fixed flash rate regardless of power consumption
Popping
... I've been out humping but working,. came online and see that I am now wondering,. is there a question here?
On my 2003 v star 1100 the starter turns but dont
i am doing my starter cluch cost about $400 for the kit it is a pain in the backside but doable main thing is when you get the harmonic ballancer loss ther is 6 small springs with small steel pin inside the springs that fall dont lose them good luck
I have a 2000 V-star 1100 and I know it probably
There are a lot of possibilities on this problem but if this was my bike I would start by draining the fuel tank, pulling the petc0ck and cleaning it, changing the fuel filter and draining the carbs. Then fill with fresh fuel with maybe 1/2 a bottle of a fuel system cleaner/water remover and then giving it another shot - run it for a tank or two with the water remover/cleaner. If that doesn't do the trick (I bet it will) then maybe throw in a fresh set of plugs and a clean air filter. If that doesn't do it, you might have to pull the carbs down for a manual cleaning - there might be something in one of your pilot jets. If it is only the idle then you might want to try adjusting the air mixture screws on the carbs but thats a tad tricky because of the twin carb set-up. That would take a few paragraphs and a lot of patience to describe in text. Not to mention - I usually don't recommend making adjustments like that unless there is a damned good reason to do so - the adjustments don't change by themselves so if they need changed then something changed. Find what changed first. Try the fresh fuel first - I bet it makes a big difference. Run at least mid grade fuel, too.
I have been unable to
Check your tyres, it depends on how you left them as to how they'll be now.By now most if not all of your oil will be sitting in the pan, so you won't have any on the critical parts for start up. I would put it up so the back wheel if off the ground and put it in to a high gear say about 3rd or 4th then turn the back wheel by hand which in turn will turn the engine over, it will also free up the clutch plates which by now may have gummed up and may prevent the engine from turning over.Once it all feels good, you should be able to crank the engine over to lubricate everything fully. When you decide to ride it, don't baby it to much. Be gentle on it at first and then literally blow the cobwebs out of it. Most motorcycle restorers do this. Treat it like you would a new engine. That means, giving the bike varying situations loading it up on a hill for example by being one gear to high, revving it out a bit, and going on a long ride. This puts an even amount of stress on the engine rather than just one type.
My forks are very mushy,can
Fluid certainly helps, but the fluid is to ****** movement, and NOT able to control ride height, which is the essence of your concern. One nice option is a progressive spring. This is a slightly rougher ride, but the geometry of your bike works lots better with a "more stationary" front end, meaning not collapsing. I changed mine and REALLY liked the drive ability change.
My 2003 Vstar 1100 custom
It has a sticky float valve in the carb, you could try "tapping" the carb and it may free the float off ,dont goon hitting it to hard just tapping it should free it off.
If it wont free off ,then take apart carb and clean then float valves.------------Fuel spewing out of the nozzle means over flow .The needle and seat in the carburetor are not sealing properly. The needle is either worn or there is some trash keeping them from sealing. You'll have to remove the float bowl and either clean it out or replace the needle.
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The float needle is not shutting fuel off within the bowl.It is full of fuel you can lightly tap on the bowl of carb an that may make it stop .What has happend is that the bike sitting for 4 days have blocked the carn bowl, bit low. You may need to run a little fuel treatment through it or sea foam( sea foam is a carb cleaner spark, available at local auto parts store, you can spark the seafown on carb holes and add seafoam to the fuel too) and that may clean the end of the needle off the way it works when the bowl of the carb fills with gas the float raises a needle valve into a brass seat and stops fuel flow into the carb.When the fuel gets old it starts to develop a tarnish on that nice pionty valve and then it won't stop gas overflows.Just prevent to much into the motor try some fuel treatment and run it, it may fix it self .Also get the carb and jets cleaned. By taking carb apart. This will help, to stop such problems in future.---------
This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.
I have a Yamaha Vstar
back fire and loss of power can be air leaks on the intake, including vacumn lines, or low voltage which could be a charging or coil problem.
Also check valve clearances, too smaller clearance or a stuck valve a can also cause this.
Electronic ignition timing is preset and doesnt usually change, unless the flywheel comes off or the cam chain and tensioner is completetly worn out, so this is not likely
Starter turns but doesnt ingage
That will be the starter clutch worn, it works on a roller bearing principal, after use on older bikes the clutch becomes worn and the bearings fail to return when the starter is activated causing failure to start
Replace starter...still does not engage motor
The one way clutch inside the motor is slipping. On the back side flywheel is a one way clutch that grabs the starter gear when the starter motor spins. It is designed to let go of the gear once the motor fires up. If the mating surface of the one way clutch and the starter gear becomes rough or chattered, it will no longer grab and turn the motor over. To repair this you will have to take off the crankcase cover and pull off the fly wheel to replace the one way clutch and the starter gear.
Bike was running and died. Tried to restart and it
Could be the starter ... I would check the voltage of the battery first. Low power could be causing the starter to not engage properly. I doubt it is a poor ground ... as the starter is bolted to the engine. However, the negative wire is also bolted to the engine and could be a weak connection, so check it too.
If your electrical charastics check out, since you have the starter out, why not take it to the Yamaha shop and have it tested. Could be a good investment of time (and money) to get you back on the road with your V Star Classic in short order.
Check the voltage with a Volt Ohm Meter. Expect at least 11.5 for ok operation. Check the resistance on the ground wire by selecting OHMS and test - on the battery to any where on the frame/motor. Any significant resistance is not good. Clean all connections and assure they are tight. Check the resistance across the start solenoid. Test the voltage on the starter sice of the solenoid.
I suspect if you find good volts and low resistances, there is a little problem with your starter 'bendix".
Good luck and thank you for your interest in FixYa.com
I have an xvs 1100
If it normally fired up straight away, and now when you hold it down and release it only makes a whirring sound. Sounds like your starter clutch has failed.
There are little signs when this happens. Often after a successful start you will hear a small whrring sound, or you will go to start it and it will catch then release to a whirring sound.
Acts like loss of fuel at time
There are a lot of things this could be, but the most likely (in my experience) is water in the fuel or a plugged screen or filter. Try draining the tank and replacing with fresh fuel or try using "dry gas" and/or a fuel system cleaner. You might also want to remove the fuel valve from the gas tank and check the filters on the pick-up tubes - this can be done without replacing any parts and it's not hard to do. Also - check or simply replace your fuel filter (it's under the seat). I hope this helps, but if not, come back and provide a little more detail and I am sure we can get it sorted out.
Have 2006 yamaha classic 1100
A motorcycle lift is always helpful. When desperate I have backed my cycle over the back of a curb onto boards, jacked up under the back, and removed the boards to gain tire dropping height. Raise the back of the bike high enough that you can drop the wheel out the bottom of the wheel well other wise you may have to take off a saddlebag , loosen the rear axle nut, take out the bolt, knock out the spacer , lift the caliper assembly out of the way and hang it by a wire, grab the wheel, and slide it sideways away from the final drive. The wheel should slide right off the spline of the final drive and roll out the back under the fender. If the wheel wont slide past the final drive let the air out of the tire. Be sure to coat the spline of the final drive with moly60 paste from your local Honda dealer when reassembling.
How do you remove the rear wheel? I just had the
Raise the back of the bike high enough that you can drop the wheel out the bottom other wise you may have to take off a saddlebag , loosen the rear axle nut, take out the bolt, knock out the spacer , lift the caliper assembly out of the way and hang it by a wire, grab the wheel, and slide it sideways away from the final drive. The wheel should slide right off the spline of the final drive and roll out the back under the fender. If the wheel wont slide past the final drive let the air out of the tire. Be sure to coat the spline of the final drive with moly60 paste from your local Honda dealer when reassembling.
I need to get the
looks like somewhere around license plate is access to shaft to lower tire (usaully uses some part of tire tools)
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