20 Most Recent 2002 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic - Page 8 Questions & Answers

take a can of carb cleaner an spray all around the carbs an intakes while it is running if it revs up or chokes down you have a intake leak try to tighten them up and see if that corrects it it could also be dirty air breater it would cause it to idle poorly until it warms up

sounds like you have a bad ground or a bad connection behind the head light I would check battery connection and if that does not help you have lots of little plugs including your starter button wires and light connections behind head light somtimes vibration loosens these connections up hope that gets you going

I think you will find it may have had a fuse go down it is possible because of the excessive voltage from car chek fuses it should fix you right up

therew should be a plug on the side of magneeto that you can remove anspin the motor until you see the timming marks there should be a F for fully advanced an there should be a T that is for TDC top dead center there should be a mark on the hole where you removed the plug on the side cover you line that mark up it should line up when your #1 cylinder is all the way up if the mark on the cam is a 0 put it to the 12o'clock position if it does not have that mark it will have a flat latteral line on either side of the cam gear line them up level with the head hope this info helps

first take scews out or head light unit locaded on either side at 3 n the 9 oclock position they should be a phillips then you should be able to remove the bulb it depends on if light does not work and you have replaced bulb you need to use 12volt test light and check for power on the back of bulb I have had at least 3 times that bulb was good an the spade connection on back of ligt it self if you do not have a test light I would pick one up at walmart or local parts store they are pretty cheap and give lot of advise when chacking fo 12 volt power you need to ground the test light bye attaching its ground clip to anything meatal on motor or fram be ccareful not to put onpainted ares when you take the point end of the test light and check the plugthat attaches to the liht the ligt can be unplugged you should have one wire that lights your light when key is on and one that lights the light only when your high beam indacater is on the other wire is a ground if you have no power on thet plug you need to check fuse for the lights if fuse is good may have problem in handle bar switch if it is the switch try a little wd-40 in the switch an then work it back an forth blow excess out with air hope this info helps

you have adity inlrt needle in the carb it is letting gas fill th bowl and it leaking past th valve seats it will cause damage to valve seat clean the carbs thourly

Now replace the air filter and make sure the battery is fully charged. Then get a can of starter fluid and a helper. Have the helper spray some starter fluid into the air intake while u start it up. Continue to spray the starter fluid for several more seconds until it really takes off on it's own fuel. J.

bad charging circuit to battery causing low voltage on battery and shut off condition.

I would guess that the tires need balancing. There is a product you can buy that is a bunch of little BB's you put in the tire that will balance it. I have not used it so I would recommend taking your bike to a tire shop and have them balace it for you.

You will need to adjust, tighten, or replace the speedometer cable before it will work correctly again

Sounds like the idle circuits of the carbs are restricted, or there is an air leak at the intake manifolds. If the bike has sat for a period of time, I would clean the carbs.

It is located on the left hand side of the motorcycle, below the seat level, behind a painted side cover.
sort of below the battery as well.
Here is a picture of the location.

You should be OK with any major brand 20w-50 motorcycle oil.

How's the bulb, black burned? You have shorted your instrument bulb and when putting the new one. Better take it to a bike repair garage as your wire must be burned also keeping your fuses to blow. If you want to dare, check at the end of your manual there should be an electrical diagram, just follow all wire related to you instrument and see if all are properly connected and in good conitions. Replace any wires that are burned or have a very soft mushy/bubbly plastic covers. Good enough free advise?

Have you checked the handlebar switch and all its wirings?

it has a sticky flote velve in the card you could try "tapping" the carb and it may free the flote off dont go hitting it to hard just tapping it should free it off
if it wont free off strip cards and clean then flote velves up

Well it is time to retire. No.....
Change the oil and filter, clean the air filter is normally done, then check for spark plug gaps

Sounds like a gudgeon pin .
Check everything for loose bolts.
Could possibly be pinking, Are you running premium petrol?
Could be a broken valve spring.
You could try putting a screwdriver against the motor and listening at the handle end to isolate where the noise is coming from, that will give you a starting point to try to isolate the problem.

and how quickly is the battery draining?

&.. it sounds like its draining when Anything is hooked up...... I'd suggest looking for a common circuit that would affect everything first.. like the ignition switch.
look at the ignition... if it's draining that quickly even when switched off, I'm guessing it might not be shutting of properly... bad wire/connection??

think I'd try disconecting it at the harness block and see if it drains then...
check out if any of the lights remaining ON with the ignition off and that is draining the battery. Something is pulling current now all you have to do is start isolating circuits until it stops and you found it then figure out why it's pulling current. Have you added anything lately. Sometimes that is the smoking gun. Think? What have you done lately that might be doing this. If not all I can tell you is start eliminating things by circuit isolation. It would help to disconnect the positive lead on the battery and put a DVM in series and see what amps or in this case milli-amps are being pulled as you start isolation to see when it stops. check out.keep updated.thanks.

Take the plugs out clean or replace em' then try to crank it again......If you still don't get anything then you may have to take off the ol' carb and cleaner up..........what kind of carb cleaner did you put in with the gas??