20 Most Recent 2002 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic - Page 6 Questions & Answers

You can get a stiffer spring and it'll make a difference. But the shock won't be made to absorb the forces correctly so it might feel a little strange but it'll still work.

from your statement I can conclude that the bike starts and runs OK ? If so the fisrt step is to check the battery terminals.are they clean and tight, then go to your owners manual find out where the fuses are and check the fuses it sounds like it might be one of the smaller auto style the manufacturers use.If it is a fuse the next step is to find why it blew.check for loose connections rubbing wires or even "green death" in the feed somewhere. good luck

This can be caused by leaking exhaust gasketsair leaks in intake, or lean fuel mixture.low ignition voltagecarbon fouled spark plugs.tight valve clearance or burnt valve

well it sounds like the float needle is not shutting fuel off whin the bowl is full of fuel you can lightly tap on the bowl of carb an that may make it stop what has happend is the bike has sat you may need to run a little fuel treatment through it or sea foam and that may clean the end of the needle off the way it works when the bowl of the carb fills with gas the float raises a needle valve into a brass seat and stops fuel flow into the carb fuel get old and starts to develop a tarnish on that nice pionty valve an then it won't stop gas the overflows just prevent to much into the motor try some fuel treatment and run it it may fix it self just from fresh gas an being driven worst case is having to clean your carbs still not to bad hope that get you fixed up

Basic riding procedures can be overlooked even with experience riders. Adv to check petcock , should be on ON position, not on reserve or closed. Check Fuel pump (check fuse /relay location on manual replace as needed) ? hopefully you don't need a fuel pump , Fuel Filter ( replace ) .If bike was not running for a period of time, decomposing gasoline can cause injection to gum up preventing gasoline to flow properly and thus no gas no combustion.Adding high grade gasoline along with injector cleaner may due the trick.In addition heads may loose compression if bike was sitting for a long period of time. Make sure no debris is blocking air intake or heads vents( refer to manual)check oil level and then ride the bike until head fully compress ( about 2-5 miles) . If problem persist provide more information along with any changes you have done to bike and more details about issue. Good Luck

I think it is between 2 or 4 thousth of an inch I set mine by ear you want it snug not overly tight or you will lose alot of power before you run the tappid down tight you need all tension of moter run the the adjustment down tight then back it off 1 quarter of a turn lock jam nut down and try there you may be able to go back tighten them a little more hope that will help quiet that noisy upper end down best of luck

does sound awfully high to me, is this with lights on or off though? most i think ive seen with lights off is about 15.1v at 4500rpm, so 17 is far too high unless the lights are on

there are several ways to test a rectifer the quckest way to check if it is working properly is with a voltmeter first check ground resistance one lead to good known ground (battery neg.) the other to rectifer should be 1 ohm or less.Then hook meter to battery and start the bike and check and watch battery voltage should start to increase after a minute or so check at 2000 rpm again increase if it does not check stator if stator passes replace rectifier

Hi billy.you need to tune engine, is off balance.

• V Star had a lot of this same type of issue. Many many complaints about it. The solution is two fold.

• On the left side of the bike sort of under your rear there are two fuses. A 10 Amp. and a 5 Amp. I can bet one or both is blown. The fuse may just blow again eventually, maybe right away. Some people tried putting a 15Amp fuse in place of the 10Amp fuse and say the problem went away. This can be dangerous though. The fuse is blowing for a reason. For others the fuse replacement did fix.

• You can look for a bad ground wire along the path of the wire harness. There is an inline switch back by the brake lights that have been know to go bad too. If you replace the fuse and it blows again then you will have to diagnose the wiring to find out where the problem is.

• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

It could be a possible air or vacuum leak.

You have a stuck float, or one that has a hole in it.

Raise the back of the bike high enough that you can drop the wheel out the bottom other wise you may have to take off a saddlebag , loosen the rear axle nut, take out the bolt, knock out the spacer , lift the caliper assembly out of the way and hang it by a wire, grab the wheel, and slide it sideways away from the final drive. The wheel should slide right off the spline of the final drive and roll out the back under the fender. If the wheel wont slide past the final drive let the air out of the tire. Be sure to coat the spline of the final drive with moly60 paste from your local Honda dealer when reassembling. On some machines the exhaust may be in the way of removing the axle. Note : On the V Star1100 you have to remove the exhaust to change the oil filter this might be the easiest option if the exhaust blocks the axle bolt. Otherwise unbolting the rear shock will also allow you to move the swing arm enough to remove a blocked axle.

I suspect it's a positive to run lights and other accessories. It doesn't really matter where you mount it on the terminal bolt, on top of the main red cable is usually easiest. Test it by tapping it on top of the positive battery terminal first-if it doesn't spark, hook it up with the postive cable. Clean everything well with a wire brush and coat with di-electric grease to prevent corrosion.

remove car and disassemble, sock in carb cleaner
go buy a welding tip cleaner, use it to prob all holes in carb

G'day.
I can't solve this(there are litaraly hundreds of things it could be) BUT I can give you a way to narrow it down a bit.
I'm thinking it may not be running on all cylinders and an easy way to check is to start the bike from cold(do this test in the first few seconds after starting from cold DONT BURN YOURELF),put a bit of spit on your fingers and quickly touch each exhaust header in turn, to see that they are all warming up equally together.This will narrow down if your problem is related to one or more cylinders.
If one or more of the pipes is cold/er than the others then you know which cylinders are causing the problem.
If you find that this is the case- one or more of the headers are cold then.
Remove the spark plugs-Keep in order.Examine the plugs-used plugs tell a story.How do they look?clean?black & sooty?Are they all the same colour?
Re-fit plugs to caps,sit plugs on metal of rocker cover,press starter - cheack for spark on all plugs.DO NOT HOLD OR TOUCH PLUG/CAPS WHILST CRANKING-WARNING - HIGH VOLTAGE- CAN KILL.
I can also suggest a few common problems that bothered the v-stars/viragos.
They were notorious for open circuiting their spark plug caps on either cylinder.Having the coils tested will confirm this. If you have a multi meter let me know & i'll guide you through testing them.

Air leaking at the inlet manifolds-where they bolt to the cylinder-test this by spraying with wd type spray with engine running-if engine revs change-has air leaks(sucking in wd & affecting mixture.)
They even pop the carbies out at the front some times & **** air there.
The inlet manifolds also have hoses & plugs on them(for checking the carbie balance/vacume fuel tap)Check all these for splits & tears-common depending on the condition of the bike/milage/fuel used.
This will not solve your problem but may help you to isolate where your issue lies.


I hope this is somewhat helpful & I'm happy to help if you need after following these suggestions
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli











I hope that this is in some way helpfull.

No it may over stress the wiring, you will need another feed from positive and fit a relay that switches from the high beam

All that is needed is to have the carbs cleaned. It is not really hard but there are a lot of small parts. Clean each carb separately. Don't have more than one carb being worked on at a time. Just be sure you are wide awake when servicing. :-) Please rate my answer.

That is a sign that the voltage regulator is going out or already has. You can test with a volatge meter by starting the bike up and see what the voltage reads at an adle and then at approx 2000 rpm. at an idle it should read 12.75 - 13.50 volts and when reved up it should read 13.50- 14.00 volts.

if it raeds 12.50+ at idle and does not raise up then your voltage regulator is undercharging and will need to be replaced. If it reads over over 15.00 volts at any time then it is overcharging and thats usually when headlights blow and main fuses. Must replace the voltage reulator.

100% sure that is what your problem is and i hope you get her fixed and back on the road soon
Good Luck and Best Regards
Big Al

well you know what your problems is, know start working your way back the line. it's like a maze start at the finish and go to the start, check to see if your getting power at the coils when you put your test light on your wire you should get a pulse in the light when you spin the motor over. if your not getting power at the coils then move on back the maze, worst case your pick up is bad, that means you need to remove oil and the side cover and all that good stuff.
you can go to world of powersports and look up the micro phish for your bike it'll have the part numbers and prices right there.
If you have anymore question please feel free to contact me.
M.Woodring