20 Most Recent 2002 Yamaha FZS 1000 Fazer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Question edited for full year make model. Check out the videos https://www.google.com/search?q=1986+Yamaha+radian+rebuild+carbs ..

Hi, If possible, please transfer the lights to another working bike and check if the lights work when that bike is turned on. If so, then your bike needs to be repaired (might need old wires changed) before your lights and horn will function again. Thank you.

See user manual or if you;don't have one copy and paste this link; www.manualslib.com/manual/660137/Yamaha-Fz6-Na.html?page=20

bad fuel smell if bad old fuel can cause backfires and poor performance as well as carb headaches

If you have all of the above things it should start and run. You'll need to recheck you are actually getting the main three, ( air, fuel, spark), in the actual cylinder. What EXACTLY does it do when you kick it over? If putting fuel in directly suggests this is a spark issue. How did you test for spark?

Should be standard anti-clockwise, 'lefty loosey'. https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+yamaha+c3+scooter%2C+remove+back+wheel ..

Vacuum leak. Check around the intake, check vacuum lines, do a compression test to make sure its not a head gasket. Really lean fuel can do the same thing. Something else to look at if there's no vaccum issues. An example would be a carburetor that's jetted too lean. Fuel injected can have issues too, but not as common. Start with vaccum first though, it's your best bet

Try checking the ignition itself (where your key goes), then ignition coil. also check relays, bad/bare wires, bad ground etc. etc. However, don't just go throwing parts at it hoping one sticks. Get a multi-meter and do it right. Electical issues can be a pain.

Stand the bike on it's centre stand or a track stand to make sure the bike is straight and upright. On the side of the transmission is a small window with a centre line marked as LOW. It might be near the gear shift pedal. This 'Site Glass' should be the colour of the engine Oil. Using a helper GENTLY rock the bike side to side. The colour of the window should not change if the oil level is correct. I you can see a fluid level line when the bike is upright or when you rock it the oil level needs topping up.**NOTE** The entire engine uses Less than One Litre of oil so topping up will only need a tiny amount. There is a Check bolt mounted higher on the engine you can use to check for any over filling.I've attached a link to an owners manual for the Yamaha YZ450F to show you what to look for and how to do it. The basic method is the same on most motorcycles. Look at pages 3-14 and 3-15.https://cdn.yamaha-motor.eu/owner-manuals/Motorcycles/B11-28199-80-%20YZ450F-EN-2016.pdf

They're under the gauge cluster where all your lights are at shows your brake light neutral light high beams Etc that's where your fuses are

Question edited from Australian to English. Question moved to Yamaha category. There must be a switch in the gearbox that is closed circuit. The Overdrive light just tells you that you are in 6th gear. I would ignore it or remove the bulb. :>) https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+Yamaha+FZX250+Zeal+overdrive+light ..

order a new one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HmeyySg4wg Watch this video

If you mean the engine just revs and there is no drive, maybe it has a gear selector issue. The 5th gear is like an overdrive. I would take it to a Yamaha repair shop for advice.

DO NOT ride this bike until it is repaired! Do ALL these repairs OUTSIDE. Remember fuel goes Bang! The seat end of the tank is the lowest point and that is where the fuel out pipe is located. Most modern motorbike (and car) fuel systems are pressurised so the injectors work correctly. That will be why is sprays fuel when you turn the ignition on. The leak could be a pin hole or a crack that only opens when the fuel pump pressurises the system. Starting at the tank, clean and dry everything. This issue is likely to be somewhere between the fuel pump and the injector / throttle body. Once everything is dry turn the ignition key to the power On, engine OFF position for no more that 2 seconds. Your trying to 'Burp' the fuel system. Remove the key and recheck everything from the actual tank to the throttle body on the engine. Your looking for the highest point where it has become wet again. Check the fuel outlet point on the tank, the actual welded seams on the tank. Any fuel lines from the tank along it's full length. look carfully at any pipe connections to the injector and the throttle body. The leak should show up as a new wet area where it was previously dried by you. It is most likely a loose or nipped fuel line or a bent feed pipe into the throttle body.

I'm assuming it was a new starter motor not a second hand unit. Not all 'new' batteries are fully charged when you buy them so if you have a charger put the battery on charge overnight to make sure it is at it's max. Next turn everything else OFF before you start the bike. Each thing you turn on like the lights takes power away from the battery. features like the lights and fuel pump don't use a lot of battery power but a starter does. With a multimeter set to DC Volts check for power supply to the starter itself and to the Solenoid that triggers the starter motor. You should get somewhere around 12.6 volts. Does the bike start if you 'jump' the solenoid? (a thick INSULATED wire or an INSULATED screwdriver across the large terminals of the solenoid). You could check if the actual engine turns to make sure it isn't seized. First put the bike on it's centre stand NOT the side stand as you will need the rear wheel off the ground to do this. Get a helper to gently lean on the handlebars to keep the rear wheel clear of the ground. With the engine OFF, with the key OUT and the bike in neutral, keep well clear of the chain and rear sprocket (toothed cog). Roll the wheel by hand. It should spin freely with just the sound of the chain quietly clicking and possibly a quiet 'hiss' from the rear brake. Put the bike into gear, 2nd or 3rd if you can. Try to roll the rear wheel by hand. You will get resistance but it should turn. You should get regular spots of resistance (compression stroke) and free rolling (exhaust stroke). Roll the wheel through 4 or 5 full turns to make sure it doesn't lock up part of the way round. Buying a non-runner is always a roll of the dice. Sometimes you inherit someone elses mechanical headaches.

Sounds like the sensor broke apart. I would be taking the side cover to see what bits are floating around! https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+Yamaha+V-Star+1100+Silverado%2C+my+speedometer+stopped+working this is the sensor https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+Yamaha+V-Star+1100+Silverado%2C+speedometer+sensor ..

Ignition coils are probably breaking down in the heat. I would start there.

Question edited for clarity. check out the link and the images tab https://www.google.com/search?q=1986+yamaha+venture+royale+ignition+wiring+diagram ..

It has a history of it. Your best bet it to take it to a Yamaha dealer and get it tuned up. It is likely to be a carburetor issue not closing properly. https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+Yz450f+high+revs+at+idle ..