20 Most Recent 2002 Yamaha V Star Classic - Page 2 Questions & Answers

look at the main fuse and see if it is blown. google your bike manual and see what turns up.

You need to identify which brake light switch is sticking, simply unplug one switch at a time to determine the problem. It is possible that a brake light wire is chaffed and causing a problem but the most likely suspect is are the brake light switches. You can use a volt ohm meter to see if the switch circuits open and close when the brakes are applied.

how to unlock my Yamaha 09 v star 250 lost the key

Hi, I would suggest you have an air leak at your carb gasket or fuel feed pipe to the carb if all is tight and fuel pipe is sound check your fuel filter. Hope this is of some help.Steve

Set it to Yamaha specifications for best results. You can get this info at the Yamaha Rider Club web site.

My guess is this is a new motorcycle for you and this is your first oil change. Other wise, you must have done it. I have not seen every oil plug used on every motorcycle brand - I have seen a lot of oil plugs, however. Typically, they are metric, though some meet some other size standard. Typically, they are removed by owners using an adjustable or wrong 'standard' size wrench because they don't have the proper size BOX or OPEN END or SOCKET wrench. The plugs are made of soft steel - no reason to have a hardened oil plug - so that is how they get rounded.What should you do? You should replace it. Purchase one at your local authorized Yamaha Dealer.

Check for corrosion at the low beam connection to the headlight. Yamaha electrical systems are notorious for having more wiring than is actually needed to make things work, so if it has separate grounds for both the high and low beams, check the low beam ground for corrosion or loose connection. Good luck!

Mine is doing the same thing. Did you get it fixed?'03 V Star Custom 1100 but same whirring sound. That was the best way to describe it.

I would check to see in your owners manual if it has an electronic oil sending unit and check if it reads bad does it shut off your bike.then check your oil level. Then go from there see if low oil can stop your bike from running. in some cases it does it a safety measure. But i would do what is called a wiggle test with the bike running wiggle one section of wires at a time to see if this kills the engine. Once found inspect this area good for loose ground or wire or broken clip or frayed wiring Check all get back to me.Remember to rate my solution it is why i am here. Thanks in advance.

This should help :)http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/replace_fork_seals/index.html

When you forced the piston's into the caliper to make room for the new pads, it sometimes will put air in the system if you didn't remove the master cylinder cap first, or possibly went too fast. Anyway, it just happens sometimes. You'll need to bleed the brakes, which isn't too hard.
Put some 3/16 clear fuel line on the bleeder nuts and run them to a drain pan to catch fluid and so you can view the air bubbles. Open the master cylinder cap. Get a helper to slowly pump the lever a number of times, and then hold it down. Start with the left brake bleeder first, and open the nut while the lever is held down. Watch for the bubbles to stop and close the nut BEFORE releasing the lever-otherwise you'll **** air back in the system. Repeat process until no more bubbles come out, and then repeat on the other side. Watch the fluid level closely in the master cylinder and add as needed to insure it doesn't go dry while your bleeding or you'll put air in the system there as well. Set fluid level in the middle of the window in the master cylinder when you're done, replace the cap and your back on the road. good luck!

are you getting good 12v ?? if so tap on stater gently a couple of times

G'day. Sounds very much like you have blockages in the carburettors- probably the main jets & emulsion tubes.
You will need to remove the carburettors, diss-assemble them & thoroughly clean them.
I thought that this link may help if you want to do it yourself.
It will show exploded diagrams of them.
http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=281601&category=motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=2002&fveh=6827

Particular attention to parts-8,9,10,11,& 12.
I feel sure you'll find part 11(main nozzle) will have blockages in the pin size holes in the side of it.
These are critical for proper fuel atomization. They commonly get blocked by a goup that forms in the carbies when fuel has been left in them for a long time.
I jope this has been of some help
Regards Andrew Porrelli

The neutral light works by grounding the cicuit through the neutral switch inside the transmission case. You may have a short on the wire running down to the engine,causing the light to remain on regardless of gear. Find a connector with a sky blue wire running down to left side of engine....unhook and see if light is out...if it is...inspect your neutral switch...if light stayed on....you have an issue further up the wire.
Your bike has carb heaters...sometimes they are unhooked to conserve charging system capacity...if unhooked at wrong spot...a backfeed occurs giving a false neutral lamp which is dimmer than when in neutral.
Sometimes your interlock relays share the wire to the neutral switch and rely on diodes to prevent current backfeeding when not in neutral...this could be your problem....

try bikebandit.com

Look and advertize for a bike to buy, with a blown engine or wrecked front end. And have parts left over for half the cost!

This sounds serious. Either you have a dragging brake , easy fix, or some one forgot to fill your final drive with oil (or you have a leaking seal). Definitely check that you have hypoid gear oil in your final drive so you do not destroy a $1000 assembly. If your final drive has no oil and it pours out as fast as you out it in, the damage may already be done. I would drive home checking the final drive level every 50 miles or so , topping up as needed. It beats leaving your bike far from home and having to take a bus. If the bike is not drivable, take a bus home and go back with a pickup or car and trailer.