lots of places to leak , not just core plugs
moved you from cars to MC
rad leaks
cap leaks, bad cap (seal inside split)
head gasket bad.
see Antifreeze in the oil? seen on dip stick or engine oil turns to milk.
or chocolate milk? oops
leaks to ground hot, testing parked see it leak with eyes,
12 to 15 psi pressure will be clear as day leaking if seen to ground.
find where it leaks to first, then what is leaking next.
compression tests.
or rad leak down pressure testing tool.
ask a shop to diagnose it/
not running Antifreeze per the manual?
Question edited to add maker.
Question moved to sub-category.
It appears that it has a Clutch Safety Switch as well!! It must work on pressure of pulling the clutch in to start the bike (with the stand up). With the pressure spongey, the switch isn't holding.
https://www.google.com/search?q=1997+royal+star+1300+clutch+safety+switch
..
? 2:37
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArfHL1exX6I
May 5, 2013 - Uploaded by Bernbo
It's that time, The final drive oil needs to be changed, quick & easy job. ... I own 2 Yamaha V-Star 650 Classic. ... thanks for the vid, i'm going to do the same thing today on my XVS ... It's SAE 80w gear oil. ... Much better than a vacuum cleaner. ... Rear EndGear oil Change 1997 Honda VT1100C2 - Duration
I see a couple for sale on Ebay ranging from $8000 to 14,0000. But those are buy it now prices. I would guess the actual sale price would be much lower. Something is only worth what someone will pay for it. Kelly Blue Book gives a value of $11,500 for a 2012
Go the venturers.org website. They have a wealth of information for Yamaha Ventures and also Tour Deluxe which is extremely similar in parts and manufacture.
u have to find out in ur book or place you bought bike from but sometime its the type of oil used that will cuz that some bikes have to have that synthated oil u HAVE to use or some bike cant have that fancy oil that would be a good place to start
I once had a 96... these are famous for final drive whine. Try dumping the final drive oil and replace it with an approved synthetic... possibly and oil that's a bit heavier duty than stock. Usually this will help cosiderably, as long as it hasn't gone too long before a change. Hope this helps.
This tube comes from the Air Box. If the oil level is to high in the crankcase, the PVC port, which is located in between the "V" of the two cylinders is actually vacuuming the oil right out of the crankcase, and it is collecting in the air box. When enough oil collects in the air box, ti runs down the overflow tube, and drips out behind the rear wheel. To check the oil level, put a 2X4 under the side stand, make sure the bike is level, (a helper to steady the bike is a good idea here) look at the sight glass on the lower right side of the engine, down by the water pump. The oil level should be 1/2 way up the sight glass with the engine cold, and not running. If the oil level is higher than 1/2 way up, drain some of the oil out until you can see the oil level read 1/2 way on the sight glass. These engines only take a little over 3 qts. of oil with a new filter. If you are putting in 4 qts. of oil, it is too much.Earl
suspect Coil, check HT high tension side of spark if none then check LT low tension side you should see a spark on the points when they open if that is working then suspect coil is defective and needs replacement. also check points setting to see they are actually opening enough and are not dirty contacts.I hope this was helpful
seems you have no ignition, check the ignition further back eg. cable. etc. to see where you are or are not getting a strong spark, I hope this was helpful
I think you may have blocked main jets(assuming Carbs). If your bike has been sitting for a long time this will probably be the case and they will need to be stripped and cleaned. I did have one case though where wasps had built a nest in the exhaust pipes and that is a most unlikely scenario but only takes a few seconds to have a look. Hope that helps.
Hello T...the most common cause for a backfire is a vacuum leak, unmetered air enters the engine which alters the fuel mixture. Usually most noticeable on deacceleration. Check for vacuum leaks around the intake and all vacuum lines.
A good way to do this is by using some carb cleaner. With the engine running spray the cleaner on the hoses, and around the carbs & mounts--- If the engine RPM changes, it has sucked some in through the leak. The carb mounts are subject to leak on this bike...The next step would be to synchronize the carburetors. This should be done periodically anyway. It makes a noticeable difference in engine performance when all the carbs are perfectly balanced. I would also replace the spark plugs, the rich/lean fuel mixture has most likely discolored or partially fouled them.
The best way is to have them boiled or ultrasonic cleaned...If you can't do that, soak them in solvent overnight and use some spray carb cleaner and compressed air to clean out all the passages. I have found that a small steel guitar string works best, for the jets. Good luck, i hope this helps.
