20 Most Recent 1996 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 A - Page 5 Questions & Answers

There are NO adjustments in the clutch hydraulic system. Except for checking the engine oil level and type, the middle gear case cover, shift lever assembly, and left crankcase cover will have to be removed, and the clutch release cylinder will have to be examined. If the clutch cylinder is operating properly, the right-side exhaust system, the horn and the clutch cover will have to be removed and the clutch examined. If you intend to perform the repair, I would suggest that you buy a service manual from Yamaha , Clymer or Haynes for specific instructions.

When the problem is resolved and you're refilling the crankcase with oil, AVOID ANY OIL THAT SAYS ENERGY-CONSERVING (you'll see a seal on the bottle), that type of oil has a tendency to make the clutch slip.

The battery should be under the seat to remove the seat take the bolt at the back of the seat out slide the seat back and lift the battery should then be visible

10w40 or 10w 50. Either will do fine.

http://www.ehow.com/facts_7284887_original-yamaha-motorcycle-paint-colors.htmltry your luck here

I have a 99 royal star tranny has whined on decel since she was new no worries

set screw right behind carbs clockwise increase counter decrease

hi i had this problem i took the indicators off put them back on when i pulled the clutch in front brake or the back brake it all died and when i put the indicator on it done the same, found the cable i pinched shorting on the bike and the fuse was blowing hope this helps

I have had a few rattles in my 96 RS. One was the heat shield on left side of bike even though they were tight I could still bump muffler with hand and get a rattle out of it. Also inbetween my brake pads the clip that sits between them came loose and was rattlin its **** off...drove mw crazy...but simple fix.

My understanding is that they have a metal liner sandwiched in between the inner and outer layers of the carb joints. Mine are cracked and look like they are breathing when running. Mine are not leaking and arw doing fine. 96 Royal Star.

have you located the clutch slave cyl. if so fill up the mater res. on the handlebars near the clutch lever norm. and break the bleed valve open on the slave and let gravity do the rest. once you have clear brake fluid coming out tighten the bleed valve and work the clutch several times then repat untill you clutch operates fine

I would try writing to yamahas customer service department and explain how the dealer is treating you. They may or may not help you out. But see if it's yamhas policy to leave thier customers hanging like that. I think not.

Check Tucker Rocky. They are wholesale but I think their web site gives a list of dealers.
Look under Cobra exhaust. I have their 05 catalog from when I was a dealer and they do show pipes (4 different styles) for a Royal Star.

Highly likely to be a bent shift fork. Expensive to fix. Sorry. Call or visit a dealer for confirmation.

Read the max pressure on the side of the tire and remove about 4 to 6 lbs from that pressure.

you need to show it to the mechanic....... your coolant expansion tank is needed to be cleaned..............

Dear,

for this u need to remove the outer cover of the gearbox..........and also u need a new oil seal to get it replaced immediately.
if you have all the proper tools and equipments with you then you can further go for self service.

also check for the oil level after replacing....

thanx

The best way to do this, is to follow the posotive wire from the side of the battery, this is the thick wire from the battery to the starter solenoide and. Then down to the starter on the engine

okay..I replied to your other post on the bleeder...but anyway...right behind the base of your left rear cylinder is a square rubber flap...lift the flap and the flap is teethered to the bleeder nipple.

Okay....add fluid to reservoir....be aware dripped brake fluid will destroy paint, fairing plastic etc...so have a pail of warm sudsy water to cleanoff any spilled fluid ASAP.

Replace lid ....attach a hose to bleeder nipple to a waste container. Pump the lever slowly a few times.....then pull lever partway in, and crack open the bleeder.....slowly pull lever in and hold...close bleeder. release lever. Pump lever ....hold partially in...crack bleeder....pull in , close bleeder, release bleeder.
Add fluid as needed to reservoir.
Never release lever with bleeder open or you will draw air back into bleeder from hose...always close bleeder first.
Continue this till clear new bubble free fluid exits the bleeder.
Refill reservoir leaving some room for expansion as the fluid heats up. Reinstall cap.

Aside from an obvious line leak....main cause of fluid loss from clutch reservoir is the slave cylinder seals are weeping....should consider rebuilding or replacing the slave...about $70 for a new slave.

look at the base of your left rear cylinder...right behind it is a square rubber flap....lift the flap and you'll find its teethered to the bleeder nipple for the slave cylinder.

If you remove the riders right side cover below the seat...the coolant overflow reservoir is visible there....to add, I think the seat needs to come off....