20 Most Recent 1994 Yamaha FZR 600 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Isolate the problem by removing all small fuses, then replace main fuse with an ammeter that will measure 40 amps or more. Replace small fuses till ammeter shows a larger current draw. If this doesn't show problem, the problem is in the starter or charging circuit. Let me know what you find. Jim

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if its coming out of the crank case breather and its PUMPING out then check if oil level is correct ! because its a breather and not feed hose !

That sounds just like a dead battery. Try charging it with a motorcycle battery charger (not a car battery charger) and see if that works. If not then take the battery to a local auto shop to have it tested. Many do this for free. MGM

personally, i would not worry about the light as long as the brakes are fully, i mean fully functional. It could be some wiring issue.

look for the earth cable usually brown in colour ,make sure its connected . If you have a meter check continuity .

You have a ground issue. The coils aren't properly grounded, or the coils are bad! Sometimes it can be the ignition if it is a CDI ignition. Good luck!

The starter motor has a "flat spot" in the armature. This is a common failure on those machines. Starter motor replacement is the simplest cure.

master fuse is often attached to solenoid but without knowing what bike............

This usually indicates there is not enough power to turn the starter over, so the solenoid just clicks. It sounds like you need the battery to be charged. If this is occuring even after 20 to 30 minutes of riding, either the charging system is not working or the battery is bad (motorcycle batteries typically don't last for more than 3 years, less if they are not kept charged during the non-riding months).

no...engine and gearbox are integrated with 1 oil supply.If you have 2 oil fillers it sounds like you have a clutch casing fitted that's not original to that model...perhaps a thunderace

timing?

Check Voltage to/from solenoid, to/from battery, 12-12.5 volts DC when not running. 12.5-13.5 when idling at 2000-2500rpm, had similar issue and tried cleaning the contacts on the starter, contacts on the push-button also. Only to find it was the solenoid. To test starter solenoid, by-passing the starter button & solenoid, Turn the key on. Now use a screwdriver to make contact between both poles on the solenoid, there may be sparks, but only maintain contact for 1 or 3 seconds this will by-pass the solenoid and start button. I've heard it called "bumping" the starter. If it this cranks the starter or even starts (mine does) replace the solenoid ($8 on Ebay) ($12 at Advanced Auto Parts). If not its probably going to be your starter, stator or starter brushes etc

battery not charge

I can only answer the plug test question. Unscrew plug from cylinderand re-connect to the high tension lead with ignition off. Now rest the plug against the cylinder head but only hold the high tension lead. then with ignition on push the kick start lever or activate starter if fitted. if the plug is touching the cylinder head and is working properly it shoul be sparking. Note: only the side of the spark plug should be touching the cylinder head so that you can see the spark. Hope this is clear for you.

Hi the rectifer will get warm as the machine runs, the fact that the old one burned out could simply be as a result of ageYou will also find the wires to the rectifier will also get warm close to the unit, assuming it does not blow a fuse, and that the correct fuses are fitted, and the battery is in good condition, a discharged battery could cause the rectifier to burn out, as the battery acts as a form of resistor for the unit, on some of the older machines like yours the charging system did not work, unless you had 12 volts in the battery to supply the DC side of the alternator

It will not be a bent shift fork. If the clutch lever feels the same pulling the lever in and out as it did before the problem came up then chances are the clutch is okay. Does the lever at the gearbox move properly when the hand lever is moving in and out? Is the clutch cable hanging up on something? I think you are going to find either a broken woodruff key on the gear at the right end of the crankshaft or clutch plates hanging up on the clutch hub. The broken key would prevent power from going to the ring gear on the outer clutch hub. The clutch plates can wear grooves into the clutch inner and or outer hubs. Too deep a groove and the plates can be unable to be compressed by the clutch springs. The result is no power being transmitted through the clutch. Another possibility is a broken shift shaft arm or arm spring. The right engine side cover will need to be removed so you can then do a visual inspection of the crankshaft gear, clutch hub and shift shaft lever. If I knew the year and model and engine size of your Yamaha bike I could offer more exact diagrams. The one below are generic. Go to www.babbittsonline.com and you can see an exploded view of your specific engine. Please rate my answer.

There is a number of different things tha couldt cause this problem.
1.The wiring to the headlight from the handle bar switch could be broken.
2.The headlight earthing could be broken.Check to see if you have voltage to one of the bulb terminals then if you have then run a wire from the case of the bulb to the battery earth (-) and if the light goes then the earthing is broken/faulty.
3.The high beam/low beam switch could be faulty.
4.The contacts that touch the bulb terminals could be damaged or broken.
Gd luck.hope this helps

When engines get too hot, it can cause a number of problems, blown head gasket, warped or cracked head siezed pistons, heat softened rings, causing high oil use,etc
Running low on oil can cause a whole lot more problems, to bearings , cynlders, cams etc
It sounds you will need at the very least , new rings ,and head gasket

easy way is to follow from tank valve to carb