20 Most Recent 1994 Yamaha FZR 600 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Try going to the yamaha forum on the internet - it works

Here is a diagram of your forks:
http://216.37.204.203/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=140&B=28
Assuming you have already removed your fork cap, you will need to remove the clip # 5 and the bolt # 18 then in a slide hammer type action, pull the upper tube out of the lower tube. There is a washer underneath the fork seal that will pull the fork seal out with the upper tube, so you have to compress the fork tube, then give it a good yank to pull the seal and separate the tubes.

A couple of tips here. First, to loosen the fork cap, loosen the top triple tree pinch bolt at each fork leg before removing the forks from the bike, then loosen the fork cap. You don't have to take the cap off at this time, but break it loose. It is very difficult to hold the fork tube and prevent it from turning once the fork is off the bike and out of the clamp. It is much easier to break it loose and leave it finger tight before dropping the forks out of the triple clamps. The key thing to remember is loosen the pinch bolt before attempting to loosen the cap. The pinch bolt applies extra pressure to the cap and can complicate the process of loosening the cap if left tight.
The other tip would be to use a 3/8" air impact wrench to loosen the allen bolt in the bottom of the fork leg. The internals will want to spin if you try to do it by hand.

my old cbr takes 3 quarts 3.5 if filter changed...i always check it with wheel stand so it will be level when checking and i never screw in the cap i just set it inside, and never top it off only go 3/4 of the way...you dont ever want to overfill any motor engine with oil...better to be a little low and have to add then have internal damage....10w40 would put be a good choice, no synthetics. the next years summer months you could go up to a 20w40 if you want. I'm not sure if your model has a view port or dip stick..well just pour two quarts directly no problem then slowly pour in the third look in there with a flashlite if i"ll help and when you see it get close set it at a nominal level..remember dont overfil. then just remember how many quarts it took to fill it for next time.
Can i get a helpful reply...thanks!

is it carbed buddy

Before you remove the chain, make sure you run the adjustment all the way in, and with the master link off, verify that the chain will make it with the link (link and a half) removed. Keep in mind, that maybe your chain is stretch too much and needs to be replaced!!! You can tell by looking for sprocket wear, or pulling up on the chain at the back end part of the rear sprocket. If the link comes above the teeth, it's worn.
I use a grinder to take off the "pins" down to the plate, then use a punch a little smaller than the pin to drive it out.

sounds like an earthing problem,check and clean the earths for the reg, also make sure the unit , and is able to keep cool by one.-ensure it has a good air flow and two-it is mounted correctly,so that any heat will be dissapated through it's mount

You will have to remove the tank :(

i had a similar problem on my 1998 honda superhawk. I was down in Daytona Beach, Florida, and it was really hot and my battery went dead. It turned out that the heat of being down there along with the frequent short trips and idling we were doing down there fried my regulator/rectifier. It actually melted it was so hot. I bought a new regulator rectifier from a guy online who was really cool about it. Rick's Motorsports Electrics was the name of his store.

I looked up the part for you. check it out: http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=10-417&pmc=OTRZYW1GWlI2MDA=

i don't know if this will help you, but bikebandit.com has microfiches of almost every modern bike. here's a link to a microfiche of the electrical harness. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/yamaha-motorcycle-fzr600rf-1994-electrical-1/o/m7230sch119961

I would remove and clean the sparkplugs - sounds like one may be fouled.

You can do a continuity test on your coils and plug caps as follows:
1:Disconnect the coil connector drom the wiring harness.
2:select (O x 1)
3:put tester + lead on red/black terminal and - lead on orange(grey)terminal.
4:Your primary coil resistance should be between 1.87~2.53O at 20C.if OK proceed to step 5.
5:Select ( ωx 1k)and check secondary coil resistance(between the two HT(plug leads)this should be between 12~18 kωat 20 C/86 F).
You can also check sparkplug cap which should be 10k.ω
This is just a basic check but I would do is remove plug lead from the offending cylinder ,take up the revs and see if the miss-fire has gone.If so swap your coils around and see if missfire occurs on the other cylinders.If not your coils are OK.
If the missfire is still now only occuring on the one cylinder then you need to do a compression test()and if OK remove carbs and check also the inlet rubber manifold(for cracks ,seating etc.)and then service them.
Once off you can also see if the butterflies are in sinc.But do these simple tests and if you have a problem come back to me.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

36Y-81940-00-00 STARTER RELAY ASSY $51.35

Please rate this answer. Thanks

3.2 quarts 10w30 yamalube 4. any other spec. info. on that bike can be found at www.thefzrarchives.com

Floats in carb are stuck. They will have to be removed and cleaned in solvent or equivelant

check that there is not an air lock in the fuel line,set the fuel tap to"pri"for a few minutes this will take out the airlock,also check that the sidestand switch and clutch lockout switch have not been damaged

Measure with a voltmeter the charging circuit for normal operation (battery, regulator/rectifier and generator).

this sounds like a stator problem. try checking the wiring inside and to the battery and if that is not it you most likely need to replace the stator.

new it will cost you over $370.00 new remove one of the locks and bring it to a lock smith heres the link if you want to order new ones

http://www.ronniesmailorder.com/fiche_select2.asp?category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1994&fveh=590

Hi u wont be able to lower it that amount without seriously upseting the handling.If u want to lower it by approx 1 inch change the dogbones on the suspension linkage to 25mm longer yes longer means lower ride height

Does the bike have a sidestand switch that cuts the power if the stand is left down? If it does, disconnect it and temporarily join the ends together and try starting....