Top 20 1990 Yamaha FZR 600 Questions & Answers

The oil should be okay, did you put the right amount of oil into the engine ? try draining it again and check how much oil you need. if the problem persist than the problem is something else. where is it leak ?

TAKE OFF TAKE APART HIT EVERY LITTLE HOLE ETC WITH CARB CLEANER DRY REPEAT 3 TIMES THEN PUT ON RUN SCOOTER ADJUST IF NEEDED

can takeit apart carefully to maybe fix gaskets etc--but its old--chec out some salvage yards or online for replacement

Im not 100% sure but try on the crank case at the bottom near the frame right aound the mounts

This shows that a variable current is being given to the rev counter as it should beCheck all connections for dirt , corrosion & fastness especially the rev counter earthIf all the above are good then the rev counter itself has blown

sir , if your bike clutch release on the end ,then bike began to move..then you need replate its clutch plates, otherwise adjust the setting on the end of wire hook...

The most common cause for an older machine would be a dirty or defective kill switch. If the contacts in the ignition switch are worn or dirty that can cause no spark. Sometimes you can take apart and clean the contacts. Believe it or not the simple male/female plugs can form enough corrosion to cause a break in the electric current. My Goldwing dropped two cylinders once because of corrosion on a single wire connection. Try unplugging and replugging the wiring harness plugs just in case that is the cause of the problem. Another place to look for continuity breaks in the wire harness is where the harness wraps around the frame. Every time you turn the handle bars the wires are moved and in rare instances a wire will break. Using a volt meter check both ends of the kill switch/ignition wires while turning the handle bars. In models where the harness connections are in the head light bucket you want to check that connections have been broken or disconnected where you can not see them. If you still have not achieved spark you need to take a volt meter and check the pulsar pick ups, spark plug caps, plug wires, and ignition coils. If all of these are with in factory specifications you need a new CDI/brain box.

Something simple like on the throttle side of the handlebar just to the inside of the twist grip is a switch most often they are red but age may have taken this to an orange or even white. The switch is a three position Off, on Off. Make sure it's in the "on" position. Okay another thing is it turning over with the starter if not the bike could be in gear and the neutral lock out is preventing it from starting. Bike must be in neutral "green" neutral light should come on on the dash. I wouldn't think that three months would be enough to foul out the carbs so lets assume the gas is okay as long as it's not leaking. Personally I think you have it in a gear, faults neutral (on the shift came between something other then 1st and 2nd.) Neutral lock out switch on center stand disconnected or damaged. Make sure you have the petcock turned on so the gas can get to the carbs. If all that stuff checks out and you are in a cold climate the bike my need some heavy choke to get it running at first. Failing that I'm sort of out of suggestions at this moment at least without being there

i would think this is a involed job...you must take into account the shock linkages & the engine postion..also the run of the chain. as if this doesnt work it will be akward to do..& also remeber the back wheel in the triumph will be a lot bigger as well..the only way to see if it works is to offer the swingarm up!!...am sure there will be some machineing work to do to make fit..& am sure there will be loads of little jobs & other things i have not said will crop up....good luck

check to see if the bulb may be blowen (some times the bulb when it blows it comes on and off)

check to see if the bulb is seated in the bulb socket/connecter properly (alot of times the bulb connecter is not pluggen in fully resulting in a bulb comming on and shutting off)

check the wireing going to your lights to see if that may be the issue (there may be a break in the wire that cant be spotted by just looking at the casing

depending on if the lights your talkingabout are on a car or ATV

for car (sometimes a bad relay can cause the lights to go out)

ATV the lights can g out because of a bad wire like mentioned alredy

depending on what the bub type the light takes you can try replacing the bulb connector (having carroded contacts can cause a light to fail funtioning properly

good luck and i hope this helps

You have a dirty contact base on your ignition switch that is shorting out. Clean it or replace it.

Carburetor problem definitely (if not fuel injected).
I had a 1985 Honda Interceptor that had to be ridden a while at the beginning of the season before the RPMs would stabilize.

I had to adjust the carburetor mixture and speed until it was
within specs, but really all I had to do was to ride it until the carbs
were back to normal.

I think gas filter could be changed, as regular maintenance, but
the problem is within the carburetor jets being clogged or the float
not being free enough to move or pivot and close off and let fuel into the float bowl so the proper amount of gasoline is metered to the engine.

Hope that helps.

make sure u hav lubrication chec level in case--may need to ajust valves-buy a shop manual

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, check, clean, bypass and/or replace the sidestand switch.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

hi,just a thought,if you have had two sets of carbs on it and they have been tuned/balanced and still does it,then it is probably not the carbs causing the problem.check your throttle cable,check it is in good condition with no kinks or tight spots,also check it is not jammed between any other component causing a sticky spot,also,check the freeplay in the cable,you should have around a 1/4 " freeplay at the carbs,with the engine running turn the steering lock to lock,the engine revs shouldn't change..s aticky cable can cause the problem you describe.hope this helps...cheers

this is yours jarnater or regulater problem same problem to me i have fzrr 400 but i install a new regulater and then i solve my problem

Sounds like to have a voltage regulator problem ,Get you local yam dealer check it out .

CHECK UR FUEL PUMP SYSTEM...WITH CHOKE ON, UR FORCING FUEL INTO THE ENG. ON COMP. STROKES GD LK, CHARLIE

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Three possibilities:

• battery - have it externally charged and load tested;
• rectifier/regulator combo - temporarily disconnect after a ride and determine if battery charge will remain
• other electrical - temporarily disconnect the battery - cable after a ride and determine if battery will remain charged.

A way to confirm leakage or partial short is to temporarily install an ammeter in series with the battery + cable with the engine off. There should be no current flow.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

well you don't give me much to work with but I'll give it a go. From what your saying it sounds like your clutch switch and or side stand switch is not working. now when you say no clutch action??... as in when the bike is running and in gear you let it out and nothing happends or you try to put into gear and it jams into gear and stops the motor???