20 Most Recent 1985 Yamaha FJ 1100 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

That is a known issue with these bikes, did you replace it with a new one or there are some aftermarket ones that are build better than OEM that i have come across not sure were but i know there out there

I had the same problem. Be Carefull! it can slip while you are on the road and cause a fire. I used JB weld and safety wired it, seems be working fine

Yes...they are the virtually the same part number. Xv1000 = 42h 82305-20-00, xv1100 = 1ta 82305-20-00.....the only difference being the part number themselves. 1ta supercedes 42h.
Take care.

the top of the filter of course

plz visit this site:- www.xjbikes.com

When's the last time the carbs were removed and thoroughly cleaned? Has the bike ever sat for any long period of time in storage?

Chances are, there is varnish buildup in the carb passages, and/or the float level needs to be reset.

Hi ..plz visit this site ---> http://ezinearticles.com/?How-to-Clean-a-Motorcycle-Carburetor,-The-Right-Way&id=1460030

I wouldn't use 5 wt oil.I fell it's a bit light. Proberbly 10 or 15 wt depending on your size.
Not sure about the quantity.It's not easy getting specs these days & Iv'e found most qualified bike mechanics (including me) set them by the fork oil level these days. I must admit however I do prefer the quantity as some forks are outside the golden rule- & of course then you a required to keep up to date with what theyare(some showas commonly)

To set them by level, check the distance from the top of the shock to the oil with the fork fully compressed without the spring. Set this to 110mm & you will be fine
Hope this helps
Regards
Andrew

Your bike has 4 carbs and they are not in sync with each other. This requires hooking a gauge to each carb individual and adjust till each one is exactly the same as the next. The imbalance can be from mis adjustment of just dirty carbs. You will also have balance problems if any cylinder gets lower compression.


*Help me out. Rate me!

You will need a variety of shims, and the valve bucket holder tool to adjust the valves, but i find it hard to believe that you would need anything at this point. Just pop off the valve cover and check the clearances with your feeler gauge. I'd bet they are fine, unless theres a valve seat issue-
Jim
www.vmsmotorsports.com

Switch the coils to see if the fowling switches, if it does its the coil.

Most if not all the connectors will have a Phillips head on them. Removal is not difficult but follow these tips and re-installation will go smoother. You do not have to remove the gauges or the ignition nor separate the windscreen from the fairing to remove the fairing. Get out you digital camera(any camera will do) and take frequent pictures as you remove fasteners. If you are unfamiliar with the correct re-installation location use a divided container and label the correct location. There is no trick to remove the fairing. If it won't move after removing the fasteners you most likely have missed some. Follow the pictures for re-installation.

It sounds like it is running too lean for some reason. First, let's assume that the normal tune up items are correct (valve tappet clearances, spark plugs are good, air filter, etc.). Also included in this assumption is that the engine has good compression (at least 140 psi on all cylinders) and that there are no air leaks between the carbs and the engine.
The aftermarket exhaust will generally require larger jetting in the carburetors - especially when combined with anything but the stock air cleaner box assembly. So, right off the bat, plan on going up to the next size larger pilot and main jets for the exhaust alone - PLUS another two to three sizes bigger if you aren't using the stock air cleaner box.
Finally, make sure the carbs that you have refitted to your bike are not clogged up from sitting with gasoline in them. It only takes a few months for the fuel to evaporate and leave behind a varnish that will require the carbs to be disassembled and cleaned.

the only thing to cause this is a bad carburetor float,its not stopping the gas flow when carburetor bowl is full.remove it and replace it.

pull the carbs loose from their manifolds and turn the fuel on and watch which one starts pouring fuel in, also a wet spark plug will indicate what cylinder has the problem, I will tell u this from my 40 years of Japanese bike repair work it is always best to just pull the carbs and replace all the needle valves

Get a owners manual like Haneys. You could get one from any motorcycle parts store.

It looks as if you'll need to rebuild your carbs. As for No. 2 cylinder it would appear the float is stuck down not shutting off the fuel supply. This may be a mechanical issue with the carb or simply some build up not allowing the valve to shut off completely. I'd pick-up a rebuild kit, remove the carbs, tear them down and clean them up.
I hope this may have helped
Tom
PS: Great bike!

check the alignment of your rear wheel first and you may found that its not right and the chain is trying to jump the sprockets .

I assume you checked the fuses, but also check the flasher relay inside the fairing next to the fuse panel, if this goes out it wont start.

It Does on the Left side of the motor its in an external housing near the shifter, has a nut on the outside with an arrow pointing at it, also a small bold on the bottom of the outside below the larger bold this is to drain the oil from the housing that holds the filter so you dont get oil all over when you unscrew the bolt to remove the housing.