1984 Yamaha FJ 1100 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Remove the carbs, then holding them upside down, you will want to set the floats level.

FOLLOW THE WIRING FROM THE GENERATOR/ALTERNATOR TO FIND THE LOCATION OF THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR.

The original manual states :-
Engine oil for XS1100
not below 5 Celsius (40F) SAE 20W/40 SE
not above 15 Celsius (60F) SAE 10W/30 SE

You will be lucky to find SE spec these days though!!

Ride safe
Bike-Doc
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Smaller sprockets will only give you about 500 less RPM.

Max Torque 86 Nm / 64.2lb / ft @ 8000 rpm Max Power 125 hp / 91.1 kW @ 9000 rpm

undo 2 nuts connecting brake caliper to bike (leave the hose connected) once loose and the pads removed, loosen the brake fluid holder lid, the cylinder needs to be pushed back into the caliper, a 'G' clamp is ideal for this.put new brake pads in as the old ones came out, bolt back on bike checking 1 pad on each side of disk, pump brake a few times untill pressure can be felt on clutch lever, repeat other side. Important..only loosen one at a time replace pads then do other side.

email me i can send you an PDF copy if you still want
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You have a stuck float needle in one or more of the carbs. This is allowing the gas to continue to flow from the tank into the float bowl and eventually it fills up and spills over into the engine.

If you mean they are hanging below the carbs, these are carb overflow and breathers.
This would then mean your carbs are flooding and need a clean, and may also mean the fuel tap requires a rebuild, its a vacumn opperated tap, this means the fuel should not flow until the engine is running

Remove it from bike disassemble put a rag over calper loosen bleder valve blow air in bleeder valve piston should come out buy rebuild kit clean with scotch pad put back together MOPAR KENNY

cyclepartswarehouse.com should have most of what you need.

idiot u just sold the bike and take new yamaha bike

Sounds like the starter sprag clutch on the flywheel is slipping.

If you have a manual look up ignition coil solenoids. My FJ1100 had the same problem. Take off the small cover on the Left side that has Yamaha engraved on it. After taking it off you will see a metal T that spins around. This metal T passes 2 solenoids. Looking straight at the ignition coil, the left solenoid sends spark to the left side (cylinders 1,3 I think), and the right solenoid sends spark to cylinders 2,4 I think. If you look closely at the metal T when turning the bike over you'll see it passes each of the solenoids pretty much coming in contact with them as it turns. Your problem is that the metal T isn't connecting with the solenoids. Either get new solenoids or whole ignition coil, shouldn't be more than 50 bucks. Then read your manual on how to set the ignition timing. Hope this helps

Are u crossing the terminal at the button end or the starter motor terminals? if the termianal u r crossing is at the starte end check the button terminal end and cross them. It could be just abadly corroded button. If not that replace the starter relay, buy a haynes mannual to see where is located, the mannual will be a good investment.

Try this place:
http://www.ricksmotorcycles.com/home2.htm

I f you find the regulator, there will be three wires ln the connector the same color(yellow?) any pair of these should produce 50-60v AC with the engine running. If you get AC voltage, then it is likely a regulator problem

hi,you can get most sizes for a fj,check your local bike shop,if they dont have any in stock they can be made to order,they are a fairly common bike so you shouldnt have any problem,just make sure you get the right pitch sprocket,i think from memory that the fj is a 530 pitch,hope this helps...cheers

left side above kick stand next 2 clutch slave cilender use 12mm socket easy 2 strip bolt head

Does the bike push start o.k.? if so then measure the static non running voltage of your battery...if its 12v or less then you should replace the battery,( battery life is approx only 2 years) because its probably has a bad cell in it and is not taking a full charge. 12.6v is preferable, 13v is perfect. you can easily check if your battery is being charged properly..gain access to the battery find a good frame ground, no painted surfaces, take a multimeter and touch the positive of the battery it should be about 12.5-12.6v..then rev the bike to 4000rpm and watch the meter climb real fast to about 14 to 15 volts then it will get rectified down real quick to about 13v., release throttle, this is normal operation of the charging circuitry of a bike. Can i get a good positive feedback on this ..thanks!