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1977 Yamaha XS 650 D Questions & Answers
Once bike gets over 3000 it sticks there. (hanging idle)
Probably the vacumn slides are hanging up, Not because they are stuck, But because the idle screw is set too high to get to idle. The idle will usually hang up at 3,000 rpms. Set the idle mixtures at 1 1/4 turns out & make sure the throttle cable has play. Now back the carb idle down till it just idles about 1,100 rpms. with choke off. If the carb sync is way off, I will hang up on 1 carb when hot. You need a vacumn guage set to make sure they are balanced. To check the spark advance (which I doubt), Put a timing light on the LH plug wire & shine it at the timing marks behaind the LH cover on motor at botton covering the generator. It should be on the F marks at idle & at the unmarked line aprox 1 " over which is full advanced when reved up to 1/2 throttle. But yes a air leak at the intake manifold could cause it to rev, But will be a very erratic idle at 1,100 rpms. If the idle circuits are working correctly, You should be able to kill each cylinder with turning in the mixture screws one at a time. That checks the idle jet circuits.
'79 old school with head/tail/brake
electrical problems can be a bear and fustrating,one way that I have found an electrical problem is have a few extra fuses on hand and disconnect all wire connections,put new fuse in and start to reconnect each one,until you blow fuse,that way you have isolated the problem,good luck,if you get fustrated you may have to walk away from it for a while to calm down,and regroup been there done that.
Only runs on one cyclinder even after i changed
Assuming you have spark and know you're getting proper fuel, next we have to suspect compression. Assuming you don't have a compression gauge at this point, check your valve clearances. You may end up finding some out of spec, but you are specifically looking for valves that have no lash at all. If you find any like this, you will have likely found your problem. Adjust those valves and check it out. If it works, keep a check on that valve. If it keeps tightening up, you may need a new valve.
Next, again assuming you don't have a compression gauge, remove both plugs. Hold your thumb over the hole on the side that does hit and crank the engine over. Notice how hard it blows your thumb off. Now the other side. Does it feel as strong? This will only get you ball park, but usually when a cylinder is completely dead due to lack of compression, you can pretty easily tell a difference. If there is a difference, it's time to rebuild the top end.
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Fuel constantly leaks out of the overflow(?) tubes
hello
sounds like two problems. one a possible charging system failure and a carb issue. the carb issue you are haveing is what is a result of a float valve sticking. they can stick or hang open for a couple reasons, either dirt getting into the fuel line, or buildup causeing the vavle to become sticky and not function as well, or a worn float valves wont seal as well. when the float valves dont function and regulate the fuel, the excess goes out the overflow. to correct this the carbs need removed and the float valves inspected for which fault you are encountering.
the headlight drain is most likely caused from a no charge condition. with the bike running above idle. you should be able to get a 13-15volt chargeing voltage while testing at the battery terminals. 90% of the time this is caused from a faulty rectifier/regulator.
Engine filling up with gas
there is no way for fuel to get passed the rings right? So if you filled the head with fuel, it would just work its way down the exhaust pipe and out the back, just like its doing. The only way of getting fuel into the sump is; if you have seriously bad rings (it would be burning oil) OR if its getting through the breather system. I don't even think if the injectors were on full-time, it still wouldn't get into the sump... very strange.
Are you sure its not coolant? A serious coolant leak can be completely unnoticeable from the outside, but catastrophic to the inside.
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Winter storage
If your brake fluid is in need of changing, do so before long-term storage. Similarly, hydraulic clutch fluid should be changed before you store your bike; both systems may suffer failure if moisture gets in.
Also make sure your coolant is fresh, as deposits can form from old fluid. For service intervals, consult your owner's manual.
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