20 Most Recent 2007 Triumph Speedmaster Questions & Answers

could be carbs plugged up. should try to find non ethenol gas. i've had this prob w/ethenol. plus it could be one of your coils. check plugs to see if there's spark. don't know about the key thing. try tapping gently on lower bowls on carb. good luck.

Intake is 0.15 - 0.2 mm Exhaust is 0.25 - 0.3mm

Do not ride the bike any further, otherwise you could have a big bill. 1. Check the electrics on the oil pressure switch and light 2. Buy a new oil pressure sensor, an easy fix 3. Oil pressure release valve malfunctioning (could have the wrong spring in it or worn piston clearance in valve body), an easy fix . 4. Leaking oil seal (or backwards installed) on the crankshaft (under the timing cover), an easy fix. 5.Worn out oil pump (when oil gets hot it loses it's viscosity,or it's thickness and thus an oil pump with worn clearances will not pump it effectively) also easy to fix. 6. Worn main bearings/worn crank journals (oil escaping from clearance between crankshaft journals and shell bearings on crankshaft big end resulting in loss of pressure). This could be the case on a bike that has high mileage Requires a rebuild. 7.Also, the drillings in the timing cover and oil pump through crankcase to oil pipe junction block must be clean.

Hi.

According to the service manual the fusebox can be displaced removing three bolts on top and two at bottom (pag.155):



If it is not possible to displace the fusebox, please refer to the wiring diagrams in the electrical section of the service manual.

The service manual in PDF format has just been uploaded here: Triumph Repair_Manual.pdf.

Regards.

Ginko

If you want the exact torque spec you'll need a service manual for the bike. Generally the countershaft sprocket nut gets 100 ft/lbs or more and also has a locking device on it, most likely a washer you bend after the sprocket is tight.

Anyone with a Sprint, Daytona or S3 will tell you that this is normal. When you turn the key, the fuel system primes and the ECU does a self check for a second or 3. Wait for the self check to finish before trying to start the bike (so much for a fast getaway) On my RS, in the cold weather, the fuel pump is much louder than normal for a while, but once up to temperature, it goes away. Welcome to the electronic age.

10W/40 or /50 Dry Fill: 4.5l Oil & Filter Change: 3.8l Oil Change Only: 3.3l So 4 quarts with filter and use Mobile 1

You can use a bridge rectifier to do this. Connect each side (left to one and right to the other) to one of the AC inputs on the bridge rectifier. A small 1 amp 100v rectifier will suffice for a LED. Then connect the LED to the plus and minus connections of the rectifier. Make sure the plus side of the rectifier goes to the anode side of the LED.

no where its not always used if your talking about the one on the side of the fuel tank on the fuel pump.

As the engine runs better when the choke is partly applied it does indicate a fuel starvation condition, though the ignition system might not be entirely innocent. It should not be your problem though as you have only just bought it from a dealer who has supposedly serviced it and I expect you paid a parcel of money for it too. You should return it to the dealer straight away for rectification free of charge. When a person buys something it is on the understanding the something is of merchantable quality - that means it should work as intended for a reasonable length of time and if it does not the dealer or retailer has breached the contract made with him until he puts matters right. That basic legal principle transcended any written or implied warranties. Good luck!

You will most likely find that the battery is not at peak charge. You mostly find that this happens on first start ups with a cold motor. Modern bike electrics have a constant draw on the battery (only in milliamps) that leaves them down on power at start up. I have found leaving the battery on a trickle (tender) charger helps.

kill switch on throttle side

go to the mechanic and look in manual of bike good luck

On this schematichttp://www.bikebandit.com/2006-triumph-speed-master/o/m17654#sch569237 on the number 3 part is your rear brake master cylinder mounted on the 2 vertical lined holes under the number 3.The pedal shown herehttp://www.bikebandit.com/2006-triumph-speed-master/o/m17654#sch569268 is mounted with the number 20 bolt which you remove.When you have the pedal, attached on the rear brake master cylinder, apart from the bike, remove the number 12 clip to detach it from the break cylinder and you're done.

There is no dipstick. Just keep the oil level 2/3 way up the sight class with the bike in the upright position.

starter went bad or flywheel

What are we trying to install? Year, model Triumph?

Is the cable located on the opposte side ofthe engine to the clutch, if so you may have a pushrod which could be dammaged, you may also have an uprated spring set fitted ie a heavy duty clutch which will heavy to opperate

Your unit sounds too lean, but at 700 miles, you need to have the dealer repair it, or risk warranty validation issues....

please dont quote me on this but on my kawaski and my friends yamaha virage we have both encountered this problem and its been caused by a flat battery in my case the battery had failed and on the yamaha the regulator had packed up and the battery was going flat ,ten minutes with a thin wire from my battery got him going enough to get home .Now as for anything else that could be wrong iam not sure as this bike is a lot newer and obviously has a lot more complicated electronics than both our bikes put together ,mine is 1981 750 classic so its quite simple.Best bike i had for repairs was a triumph thunderbird 1962 model but i progressed to a car as the british climate is not inclimate for bikers now i live in spain its a different ball game .