20 Most Recent 2006 Suzuki GSX-R 600 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

this will help bud had the same issue myself so checked relay fine pump keeps turning over ie makes a noise when i start but when i start up again it dosent repeat try this way of sorting it with the paper clip might show no fault ie c00 but it anyhows and the connector under the cowel is easy to get too is the only white one on the left hand side when ys talke of the cowel just take off the black plastic cover let me know how you get on and will help anymore if i can http://www.gsxr.com/showthread.php?t=1234&highlight=codes try out this website for a list what the faults mean or get yourself a haynes manual every bikers bible lol good luck bud

It is located under the rear part of the seat.
Hope that helps.

check petcock for blockage at screen, check vacume/overflow line at gas tank for blockage, check float level for correct fuel level, check coil.

Check all the safety switches. Neutral,clutch, kickstand ect. A manual will help look here:


http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/index.php

Use the same oil as always. 32K miles is just now broken in. If you have been changing oil all along

Remove the lower fairing.
Remaove radiator cap, disconnect water hose from the water pump and drain coolant.
Remove the oil drain plug to drain engine oil, remove the coolant reservoir tank.
Remove gearshift lever and engine sprocket cover.
Disconnect water hoses.
Remove the water pump mounting bolt and the water pump assembly.

Replacement is the reverse and don't forget to refill the oil!

ya i have the same problem and the clicking from my battery either the battery is done for therefore wont charge or it didnt charge long enough try an overnight charge if it dosent work then afraid its 50 quid for a new one

When you turn any vehicle on the oil light comes on. This is the the test that the lets you know the oil light is working correctly. When you start your vehicle the engine builds oil pressure and the pressure should turn the light off. If your oil light does not turn on when the key is turned on you either have a burned out light bulb, no power to the switch, or a defective oil pressure sender. Always start with the cheapest fix first (light bulb).

The trackers are hidden to prevent thieves from getting away with them.
Contact the manufacturer and supply chassis number and proof of ownership.

HI, DID YOU CHECK YOU ARE GETTING 12VOLTS TO THE IGNITION SWITCH, YOU MAY ALSO HAVE A FUSE HIDDEN BENEATH A PLASTIC COVER ON THE STARTER SOLENOIDE,

Voltage regulator failure, possibly overcharged the battery. Did any lights burn out? Is the battery water low or gone in any cells? Voltage regulator failure usually means no charging but it can overcharge to. Take battery to the shop for load test etc.

If you jump the two terminals on the starter solenoid and the starter works you need a new starter solenoid. If you hold the starter button and tap starter with a plastic hammer and the starter works you need new starter brushes. If you bench test the starter and new brushes do not fix the starter, then you need to buy a new assembly , starter parts other than the brushes are not sold separately.

it is always best to top up using ready mixed solution of coolant, apart from protecting your engine from freezing in extreme conditions, it also protects your engine and hoses from corosion, however if you are talking of a very low amount of water to bring it up to level, and you dont live in an area with very cold conditions, then it wouldnt hurt, be sure to check the strength and freeze level of protection in you cooling system, if you are unsure of the history at all have the coolant changed periodicaly

So long as gravity is in play with the fuel petcock it will work in any way.
Does fuel go through the line before the carbs?
If so then the floats or the float pin has a problem.
Check by removing the float bowl cover and check the bowl floats for movement.
A in line filter will help stop future problems,If you need to clean the needle jet try a guitar string or a piece of un-wound copper wire to clean it up.

Well it shouldn't be to hard just use common sense. Without knowing the model i can't be much help.

when you say stoped workig do you mean no digital desplay at all when you turn on the ignition, does this bike have an aftermarket gear indicator,? remove the screen and check at the rear of the clock for any broken wires, have you recently had a new front sprocket fitted, if so it is possible you have desturbed the speedomiter drive which is located in the sprocket cover secured by an8mm bolt check the wire conection from the drive follow the wire up you will find a plastic conector, check that it is joined corectly by pushing top and bottom together, it may well be that this unit is burned out a resistance must be found at this unit using a multimeter.also behind the case located on the front sprocket is the drive gear this is secured in the gearbox shaft with a 8mmm alun bolt check for security if the bolt is loose the drive will spin on the shaft and speed will not be recognised,

HI WHAT BIKE IS THIS

Check for air leaks in the exhaust system and air leaks in the intake rubbers and especially the screws where the sync gauges were connected

First, are you boiling over? If not suspect a bad temp sender giving false information. If you are boiling over, is there a secondary air bleeding point near the head that is causing the rise in temperature. If so burp the air out. If the sender is good and there is no air in the system , have you tried a coolant modifier like "ICE" to see if you can cool more efficiently. Worst case scenario, you have a hairline head gasket leak pushing hot combustion gas into your coolant (should see discoloration in the anti-freeze). This would push anti-freeze into the over flow bottle and cause an air pocket that would raise the engine temperature by creating steam. Often you will see anti-freeze discoloration on the spark plug of the affected cylinder if this is happening. In this case you will have to replace the head gasket. The fact that you say both the light and the gauge read hot leads me to think it is the sender. Hook the sender to an ohm meter, place it in pan on the stove in water, turn the stove on high, and monitor at what temperature the switch activates using a candy thermometer. As always start with the cheapest options first and work your way up. Hope this helps.

Check your fuses, and never let a car jump a motorcycle. The resulting power surge can fry things. If it's absolutely needed to jump a bike with a car make sure the car is off when you are hooking up the cables.