20 Most Recent 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C90T Questions & Answers

Classic failure that I have experienced twice now while riding a 2007 Suzuki C90. Both times the bike went totally dead electrically while going down the road. In both cases, I sent a fellow rider off with my battery, to buy a battery that fit. That's how I got home, with the ignition system running off of the battery alone. The old battery was the first bad actor. It shorted out internally causing the regulator rectifier to call for max amps from the stator, burning the stator up...melting windings...both times. Replace the battery with a high quality battery, and replace the stator and rectifier/regulator with top end stuff...like Ricks Motorsports. Yes it costs three times as much, but it handles three times the wattage. Don't go back with OEM parts like I did the first time. It will fail again just after the warranty expires.

Same problem here ... 2008 C90T ... dealer no help ... in 3rd or 4th, ignition off, force it to roll backwards until you hear the piston shift ... should start then. Told it's the rear piston stopping at or near top dead center, but also told adjust the decompression will "solve" the issue; anyway, a rolling forward-start in 4th will work, too, otherwise try rolling the bike backwards until you hear, and you will know when the piston moves and then it will start.

Pull the chrome off. Look at the hex nut looking thing that the banjo fitting goes into. Start the motor and look for cracks. They are made out of cast aluminum and tend to crack due to vibrations or over tightening.

Fuel starvation, clean the carb and check its not blocked jets.

The Fi light and indicator mean there is something in your fuel injection, or ignition systems, that isn't right, and it has left a trouble code (just like your cars engine light).

You either need to take it to your local dealer/cycle shop and get the bike looked at, or get a "mode selector switch" from your dealer (part# 09930-82710), get a Clymers manual, hook the switch up to where the manual says to (a plug just under the steering head covers), get the trouble code, and cross check it with what it says in the Clymers manual.
From there the manual should tell you what to do to narrow down what your problem is.

Good Luck.

Where is the starter relay and seloniad switch located on 2007 Suzuki boleuvard

Suzuki experienced significant problems with wires coming loose in the ignition switch. If you are handy, pull the switch off, open it from the rear, and examine the wires. The initial manufacturing of the switched is full of bad switches with poor solder points.

My 2007 C90t which is the same motor as yours requires 4 1/2 quarts of 10/40wt.
Stick with Suzuki brand oil btw. When I changed to Amsoil, I developed a problem.

read up on how to adjust the clutch, one at engine side one at lever. adjusters that is

put a plug tester on the HT lead then to the plug it shows if sparking.

try putting into first gear then start it?? see how it is.

There is no dipstick on suzuki . Stand beside your bike and look on the bottom right side of your crankcase . look for a little site glass window . That is how youcheck . if the oil is half way up the glass when you stand bike straight up . . change every 3000, plus filter

Try checking your valve stem seal or see if your exhaust pipe blows white-bluish smoke when you up the rev for the oil leak. If it does then have it fixed or you can try to use oil sealer additives for not so badly damaged seals or even piston rings.
How often did you change the oil, have you ever use engine or lifter flush additive?
Go to your local car/motorcycle shop look for an engine flush/lifter flush additives, put it into your oil, ride for about at least 60 minutes, change the oil and filter, ride again for about 2 weeks (200-300km) then use the same additives again, change your oil and filter again,put in fresh oil and filter and that should give your a relieve from the noise tappet ticking.

Get some new washers and remove and replace these washers to stop the leak. Use Genuine Suzuki parts

Suzuki C90T 2006 won't start. Attempts start then lcd kicks off and everything is dead. takes a few tries before it will turn over. Very intermittent hot or cold. Decomp. valve adjusted last year plus new battery. Posts all over the net regarding this problem. Very unreliable starting system. Frustrated beyond belief. No solid answers. Tired of throwing cash at it. Anyone having the same problem and knows the fix please post the answer. Thank you.

According to the 2007 owners manual for my C90T there is a 30A main fuse located behind the left upper cover. To access the main fuse lift the fuel tank lid and remove the six bolts that are holding the left and right tank covers in place (not the screws that are located under the fuel cap) then remove the two screws on the front of the speedometer/fuel inlet cover (they face the base of the handlebar risers) then remove the left tank cover and left upper cover by removing the screw at the base of the left upper cover. One 30A spare fuse should be located in the main fuse box. To access the fuse bank containing the other six fuses remove the right crank case cover, once it is cool to the touch. One 10A and one 15A spare fuse should be located in the main fuse box. Fuse list: 30A MAIN fuse protects all circuits; 10A HEAD-HI fuse protects the headlight high beam and headlight high beam indicator light; 10A HEAD-LO fuse protects the headlight low beam; 10A FUEL fuse protects the ECU, fuel pump, injectors, neutral indicator light and oil pressure indicator light; 15A IGNITION fuse protects the fuel pump relay, starter relay, ignition coils, decomp relay and solenoid; 15A SIGNAL fuse protects the turn signal indicator light, FI indicator light, speedometer lights, brake light/tail light and horn; 10A POWER SOURCE fuse protects the electrical accessories connected to the output terminal

The oil fill cap is not visable. It is located on the right side but is under the right rear chrome engine cover just behind the round oil window. You will have to remove two allen bolts. Once the cover is off you will see a small cap (the origional is black). You may have to use a pair of pliers to loosen it. It will require a funnel with a very small spout to get the oil inwithout making a mess. If you are replacing the oil filter also, you'll need to put in 4.5 US quarts.

If this is a new condition and you've not worked on the bike recently, I'd try a dose of StarTron in the gas tank. It will eat the sludge that grows in fuel systems exposed to gasohol. Put it in the tank, ride a few miles to get it into the carbs, and then let it sit overnight. It has special enzymes in it that do the job. Seafoam is a good product but is not designed to clear bacterial sludge.