20 Most Recent 2005 Suzuki DR 650 SE Questions & Answers

have the wire traced from the fuse. There may be a short somewhere in the line. Inspect the wiring for exposed conductors or loose wiring.

I had same issue, replaced different flasher to no avail. Reconnected with common earth loop and still no joy. Then I realised I still had an incandescent globe in the dash. I disconnected this and indicaters then worked fine. I reverted back to the original type blinkers after a while, as the mini led's were hardly ever seen clearly it seemed. For safety sake I run smaller stock shaped incandescant lights again. They are very bright.
Cheers,
Chrisko.

Look at the sidewall of both tires. There will be a 'MAX PSI' embossed on the tire. It will probably say Max 45 PSI. At 45psi the bike will ride like a rock. At 15psi it will ride really squirrely. Find a psi at which you feel the bike handles well and rides well. One rider may weigh 125 pounds and the next rider may weigh 300 pounds. The best psi for each rider will be different due to weight. Chances are that 30 to 35 psi will do the trick.

Carefully check your intake manifold for leaks, cracks, separation. An air leak on the intake side between the carburetor and the cylinder head would be the cause of popping on the intake side. If there are leaks in the exhaust system, an o-ring seal in the head, or a seal between the head pipe and the muffler, this can cause popping or backfiring in the exhaust.

is it restricted therefore reducing top end would check with previous owner or factory restrictions could be the answer hope it helps

I agree ,I think you have a crankcase breather problem.Check the air cleaner tube that runs to the top of the motor , the vent in the head, and where the breather enters the air box is all clear.

HI
YOU WILL FIND EVERYTHING REGARDS THE SUSPENSION FOR YOUR SUZUKI DR650 HERE

http://dr650.zenseeker.net/Suspension.htm

THANK YOU

Sounds like its running too lean, you need to jet it richer or else you risk damaging the motor. Jetting is a painful tuning process and had to be done each time any change is made to the exhaust or intake.

When you run rich you loose power and create more smoke, when you run lean you are more efficient, slightly more power but runs too hot and causes damage.

Cheers,

Kevin

try www,craigslist.com or EBAY

horn relay switch, fuse or ground loose

Yes I think Moose makes one and there is another plastics company that makes one. Call Rocky Turner or similar catalog. I think it is around $150.00. Take heed that you need metal tank to be street legal, although I know plenty of people with DR 650's that thump around on the street with plastic tanks without a problem.

The magnet cover bolt torque I do not have but I know these bolts are small so here is a little advise since I doubt you have an inch pound torque wrench or the metric equivilant.. Use one hand and only apply enough torque to snug it good... It's a cover not a cylinder head... Also if there is a gasket there is no need for any type of additional sealers that why there a gasket... You may aply some grease to one side to hold it in place while you are positioning if needed....Good Luck!

A MOTORCYCLE POSTED TO CARS, MOVED YAH. buy the service manual. google finds it. blow-up drawings. buy it.

Have you checked your fuses? Checked your carbs for debris or fueling issues. If an electric fuel pump, does it 'buzz' when ignition on. If non electric (most likely) are you getting fuel to the carbs? Have you checked your filter, fuel tap and or vacuum lines.

There should be a Haynes manual for it.

Hope this helps.
James

I would BUY a service manual at a dealer or at least go there & ask the questions I have never in 50 years found- free to be of much value- & you do need the best reference material out there No inexpensive, popular & talked about stuff, will replace the factory guides & specs, you need to do your own work

Check the vacuum line between the carb and tap. It may have come off or is leaking. Remove the 'fuel out' lines from the tap. Remove the vacuum line from the carb and **** on it, turning the tap to "Reserve". You should now have fuel pouring from the tap. Also when sucking on the vacuum line you should only get a little air out the line and then it stops. If you can continuously pull air through the vacuum pipe then either it is leaking or the diaphragm in the tap is leaking.

Hi

The rattling will be either/or both the upper rear sprocket chain guard (black plastic) or the lower rear sprocket chain stay (silver metal). With the bike being lowered it has changed the angle at which the chain is pointing. There should be some adjustment in the lower silver chain stay (the bit that keeps it directly safely and stops it jumping). The black plastic upper guard is not really needed and can be removed.

The lowering procedure would have been to compress the forks a few inches, tighten up the yokes, so effectively you have a lowered front end and less suspension travel. Sometimes they slide the top of the forks out of the upper yokes (next to the speedo) and they stick out a little, maybe an inch or so. The rear suspension would have had a shorter spring installed.

The chain tensioning procedure can be done by tightening or loosening the rear chain tensioners next to the rear sprocket. Measure the slack/deflection of the chain in all gears and work out the average deflection of 1.4/1.5"

I hope all of this information helps and you can carry on riding your bike without any more annoyances.

Thanks

If trash was removed from carb,they were probably filled right back with trash if you didnt clean the rest of the fuel system before reinstalling it.(check fuel filter for dirt trash or water)