20 Most Recent 2004 Suzuki RM 250 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Try unplugging the kill button and retesting for spark. Also, make sure you are starting with a brand new spark plug. Even a plug that looks good may be bad. A plug is the least expensive electrical component on your bike, don't chance it with a used plug.

what do you mean is it the bolt came lose or actually the mount snapped if its the bolt simpley ritighten it back on

There is no engine oil. You put two stroke oil in a separate tank and it gets pumped into the engine depending on how fast the engine turns.

sounds like you lost compression, maybe it could e fixed with a valve readjustment or bad rings.

white smoke is coolant in the cylinder buddy you have either a blown head hasket or a cracked cylinder liner strip barrel and inspect its more likely blown gasket

if it was comming out of gear you might have a bent shift fork.. tthe kicker spring probally came off of its holder take the big clutch cover off and see

You remove the carburetor and then the rubber intake tube
the carb was plugged into. Reeds are inside.
If you have an older model you may have to remove the cylinder.

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors. Drain the carburetor. There should be a plug on the bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the plug then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw hole as well. Be sure to put the air screw back in. IMPORTANT > do not tighten this adjuster down. Only screw it in until it LIGHTLY seats. Now turn the air screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.
Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?


Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part and/or the notation "Not Available" is in the description, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

>http://www.bikebandit.com/ < Try this place look up your bike , model and year.

SET THE GAP AT .030

Stay with the proper NGK spark plug. Bosch plugs take a real high energy ignition system to fire properly. A bosch plug may cause starting issues and poor performance.

seems like you havve water entering through the heads, mixing into the oil and causing it to overfill. replace head gaskets

• Loosen the axle nut
• Unlock the rear adjuster screw locknuts
• Adjust both sides equally till there is 3-4cm of play on the chain - ensure the wheel is straight.
• Tighten up the lock nuts
• Tighten the axle.

I don't know if you have a 1986 250cc or a 450cc so the answer is generic.

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slide back in the throat of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Two notches may be needed, but start with one. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

Please top rate this solution. Thanks!

You have an air leak on the intake side of the motor. Get new carb and carb manifold gaskets. Tighten the bolts down evenly in three stages. For the exhaust, try the link below. It is a high temp silicone sealer.

high temp silicone (red)

A coolant leak from the bottom of the cylinder indicates a blown base gasket. easy fix if you have a manual and some mechanical knowledge.
If you lost all you coolant, you may have also seized the piston.

you will require a top end gasket set, and most-likely a piston kit (Now is probably a good time to freshen that up anyway.)

If the engine was running good you probably did not get any coolant in your engine which is good.
-here is an idea of what is involved

dissasembly
(label everything and keep it nice and clean)

1) clean your bike good. You do not want dirt in the engine.
2) remove seat, fuel tank, rear subframe, and the pipe. This should give you easy access to everything.
3)drain whats left of your coolant into a bucket, the drain is usually one of the lower bolt holes on your impeller cover . A copper washer might give it away.
4) remove the carb from the boot going into your engine. the carb can stay connected hanging out of the way on its cables.
5) remove the cylinder head
6) remove any exhaust linkage covers if so equipped, and the screw holding the linkage. there may be a hole that will line up with a slot in the arm/clip. Use an appropriately sized drillbit to stop the thing from turning on you. Be careful, these are fragile (on Yamaha's anyway)
7)remove the 4 nuts holding the cylinder on. you should now be able to slide the cylinder off of the piston.

Inspection & cleaning

Inspect the piston for any rough metal, scrapes or gouges. same with the cylinder. if damaged it will need to be replaced. Iron sleeved cylinders can be bored out 1 size and honed, nikasil can be cleaned of minor aluminum deposits with muriatic acid (don't get this on your skin) or will need to be replaced as a unit. Make sure there is no coolant inside the engine case. Crank should turn over smoothly with the bike in neutral.


Clean the old gasket off of the cases where the new base gasket will go. A plastic putty knife does wonders. make sure you get it all off, DO NOT use metal on the sealing surfaces. gasket remover can be used, but don't get any into the engine, and avoid using it where the bottom case halves are joined. Then stuff a rag in the case to keep it clean in the meantime.

Repeat the process for the cylinder, bottom and top if necessary.

Assembly
Check with your dealer for torque specs.
The piston kit should have instructions. Remove 1 circlip (don't lose it in the engine- (rag is in there right?). Slide the wrist pin out (long socket+ light tapping on it from the opposite side if you don't have a puller). CAUTION: I do not know if the wrist pin bearing is caged or not (check the new one when you get it) if it is not a caged bearing all the little roller pins will fall everywhere if you are not carefull. There is like 25 of them!
Now remove the piston, leaving just the rod. Prep the new piston (gap and install rings...line up gap with ring keeper pin...also, pay attention to orientation...some have an angle on the upper side of the ring. Install one of the circlips, rotate it so the gap does not line up with the hole, gap should be up or down not sideways. Install the wristpin bearing in the rod, slip on piston (usually arrow points to exhaust port...check instructions). now lube up the wristpin bearing and pin, slide pin through, and install the 2nd circlip.
Remove the rag, add a capfull or two of 2stroke into the bottom at this point. use a little break cleaner on a rag to make the gasket surface is clean.Throw down the new gasket. Line up ring in groves, Squeeze with one hand, and slide the cylinder down the piston. Once partway up, rotate the crank so the cylinder lines up with the studs. tighten nuts appropriately. Rotate it slow by the kickstart with the kilswitch held in the off position. Everything should be smooth. With the piston at the bottom throw a few capsfulls of oil in it to lubricate it as you rotate it through slowly. now clean the top, install topend gaskets and the nuts. Reassemble the bike in reverse order, make sure the carb is on tight, and don't forget to ADD COOLANT at proper ratio. Break in mix is gonna be 15:1 or 20:1 somwhere in there, for the first few hours riding anyway. Vary the throttle lots don't be afraid to run it though, just don't hold it WFO for more than a few seconds till everything gets happy. also, Especially when using FORGED pistons. Make sure the first time you start it, only let it idle, don't ride it. Let is get all the way up to temp, then let it cool completely. Do this heat cycle twice.
then continue normal break in.

I don't think I left anything out. Good luck.

go to bike bandit for all parts.

ur clutch is slippin

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.