20 Most Recent 2003 Suzuki VL 1500 Intruder LC - Page 2 Questions & Answers

All VL 1500s use a spin on type oil filter (just like the ones used on most cars). The filter is located on the front of the engine right between the lower oil cooler lines. Just follow the lines from the cooler to the engine and you'll see it. You will probably have to go to a cycle shop or order it on-line to get one though. Although your local auto parts store might be able to order you one as well.
The FRAM part # is PH 6018. If your local parts store doesn't carry FRAM filters they can cross reference the number or should be able to look it up for you.

Good Luck.

Faulty Stator( alternator).When the bike is running, at that time its continuously charged by the stator.
----------- In your case the stator is faulty, so its not charging the battery to make your bike run.Get the stator and regulator/ rectifier checked by the local garage, and replace the faulty one.------- Any of the one is fauilty, that is confirm, but getting it checked should help.So you can replace as per that. ----------------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

No, idle adjustment isn't the important thing. Amount of riding and amount of time parked is the thing. If you don't ride much, and it is parked for long lengths of time between rides, you will have a lower battery condition.

However, if you ride a lot and it doesn't get parked for long periods of time, you may want to charge the battery fully then put load test on it to check for one or more dead cells in the battery.

If the battery is not the problem, then you will need to check your charging system.

there is only 2 spark plugs

The oil fill is located on the right hand side of bike as you are sitting on it. It is under a chrome cover at the very back of the motor. You will need a 5mm allen wrench to take off the cover.

check the ht leads are tight. it could be getting too cold at night if so put a cover over your engine. it might help

try switching coils. if cylinder with spark changes, you will know you have a bad coil.

It should read above 13.4 Volt Amp. Normally a charging system will input from regulator about 13-14 V Amp no less to charge/top up the battery then cut-out switch will maintain the charge until next usage.

Good advice?

pump is failin or needs ajust-buy a haynes or clymer book for test procedures

you have to take the seat off and you will be able to see it

My 2004 1100 Honda Sabre rear axle nut is speced at 65 ft lb if that helps.

i my advice to you is that everytime before you ride a bike you perform a service check..there have been many times that i have had seat bols vibrate loose the brake handle nut was hanging on by a thread when i checked before one ride and the rear caliper bolts vibrated loose once and the chain backup up locking nuts vibrated off. believe me it will never ever happen to me again because i spent two days at my work going out to the parking lot and little by little took axle pinch bolts main rear axle nuts adjustment nuts seat bolt nut oil drain nut oil filled dip stick radiator cap, and lockwired all the hose clamps ( because i race and this is a requirement) but im glad they made me do it...because now by just a glance you look and see wire and that means theyre tight no question about it. you dont have to hope they're tight. after sixteen (k) miles, change the plugs and air filter, and oil and filter and check wheel bearings for any play and check for proper tire wear and inflation. Might want to spray some throttle body on the carbs also.

Get about 3 qts full synthetic motorcycle oil, or not, filter, pan, pull the plug, pull the filter, check the sieve if it has one, replace the filter with a new one, hand tight but tight! careful putting the drain plug back on, if it has a washer, they tend to crush easily, fill it up, 3 qts should do it, you will have to check the level in the sight glass, I would get an extra qt just for topping off now and then. Hope this helps.

(Manual Choke) Make sure that when the choke plunger is fully pushed IN (e.g. choke off) - that the choke cable is actually slack, if it is still tight then adjust the cable till there is a little bit of slack with the plunger pushed in.
(Auto Choke)Have you tried blipping the throttle, just give it a guick stab when it's warmed up and running, be quite sharp and deliberate with the throttle, this usually cancels auto-choke if it's working properly.
if not...
try setting the idle screw on the throttle body when the engine is hot, unscrew the screw to get the desired idle speed, then let it cool (fully cool) and see if it still starts and warms up ok with the new lower setting, either problem solved or back to square 1.. (reset the idle screw back to original setting, good idea to make a note of how far you unscrewed the screw in the first place :-)
check the accelerator cable(s) are not too tight, could be holding the throttle open slightly.
check the air filter/box to see if it is clogged... clogged filter=rich mixture...
Have the engine temp/air temp/oxygen sensors (if applicable) checked out at a garage, they could be causing problems also, but are £20-60 each, if one is faulty dont get bummed for labor charges, a temp sender is a bolt with a connector on it, fit with a ring spanner in 15 seconds, just get the garage to show you which one is broken first (just so you know ;-) then when they "offer to fit it for you" just ask for the part and fit it yourself - turns a £100 job into £20-60 job.
let me know how you get on. (The Engine Guy)
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Just check through everything in roughly this order, starting with "free" "easy" and moving onto "£20 - £60" - "annoying and niggly" - hopefully you get if fixed near the top of the list!
thinking... this is a great thumping engine - Are you using the correct grade fuel, try premium (97RON or better) if you've been on regular (95RON), some engines just don't like weak fuel especially big bike and performance car engines.

When was the last time the valves were adjusted? Valve adjustment affects more than compression but vacuum as well and should be checked... A lot of rider never check it until they have a problem like this, and it gets worse when it is colder outside.

I had the same problem on my VL1500. I THINK it gets "flooded" with fuel and then the cylinder is full and will NOT turn. I have used jumper-cables to start the bike when it will not turn over.

I now start my bike with this procedure:
1. Do NOT touch the throttle.
2. Switch on the power.
3. Do NOT touch the throttle.
4. Press the "Start" button and crank the engine a little (1 - 2 seconds)
5. Do NOT touch the throttle.
6. Keep cranking the engine (another 1 - 2 seconds)
7. Open the throttle a VERY LITTLE (approx. 1/10 turn of throttle). keep the throttle slightly open while the engine cranks.
8. Keep cranking the engine and wait for engine to start (another 1 - 10 seconds).

It is still not a perfect start, but at least the engine cranks over now.

Remember that the VL1500 has a "decompression" system that opens the outlet valve for 2 cranks of the engine.

I suggest you FIRST make sure the engine cranks over (NO throttle), and THEN concentrate on starting the big V Twin.

I replaced the sparkplugs on mine two days ago. I took off the dummy tank (two parts) the central part (with speedometer) the aircleaner case. Then i took off the chrome cover on the right side of the front cilinder and the chrome cover on the left side of the second cilinder. underneath those chrome covers you will find the spark plugs. My intruder is from the year 03 but i don't think there's a difference because it is also carburated.

bad ground

yes remove top cover. diconnect battery. neg side first. remove front cover 2 screws near bottom lift off front cover. when installing new battery connect pos side first then neg

http://www.mambaville.com/ForumFAQ/LCService/Manual/manual-index.htm on line service manual