20 Most Recent 2003 Suzuki TL 1000 R Questions & Answers

Open your rear seat and you'll see a black cap covering a connector/harness on the left side of the seat. If you take the cap off, you'll see it appears to be a normal harness. With your key in the ignition and bike turned to "on" (but not running), take a paperclip and short the two connectors out (by touching the two contacts together). This is known as a "ghetto dealer mode switch". It should display the error code on your display instead of just FI now. Fuel Injection (FI) Code List: C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1 C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2 C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3 C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4 C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1 C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2 C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3 C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4 C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (1000 ONLY)

Loosen axle nut a little, raise and support rear tire off the ground, loosen chain adjustments and remove axle. Reinstalling is a bit tougher and it's much easier if you have an assistant to help line things up. Make sure you install the spacers and brake caliper exactly as they were, most spacers are different sizes left & right. Adjust chain and tighten axle nut. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/oscar_403cc49e0f00cda7

all power should work even with a bad ecm..check your battery wires for corrosion ,,a white powered substance..it will be in the wire sheeting. If you see this new wires are needed. Bad ecm keeps it from running only. Lights should still work. Possibly bad ignition switch..make sure you have a good body ground..

don't think there is one but if so I would try by the starter. Just guessing. Good luck. The ecm is a main fuse inside all that plastic..

middle of the heads the front one is a pain in the b?m the rear one is a doddle, lift tank and away you go

try new pressure switch mate,

try another ecu

I think you might have the same problem I had with my 1999 vl1500. it would try to start but would not. turn out I had a bad ground and would not charge. I relocated the charging rectifier to the front of my battery. I found a couple video on youtube. was easy to do and kind of cheap to do. I have not had any more problems with my battery not charging

check all of your fuel lines connections and any other electrical connections you may have had to disconnect...

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

On most bikes, your described problem indicates too lean a mixture. The air/fuel mix would have to be adjusted by reducing the air through the air adjustment screws. Additionally, you may want to check for any air leak on the air filter, air box and the bottom half of the airbox that is seated to the barbs.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.

The only way to tell without taking it to a shop with expensive equipment would be to take the timing cover off, check the timing marks on the cams and make sure the crank is lined up at the same time. You have no control over the advance, it is all done by computer, I don't even know how your engine is set up, even though I almost bought one of those bikes, I was ignored at the dealer so I went across the street with my pocket full of cash to Athen's Ducati, I'm glad they ignored me. I found this;
http://www.d-slr.com/tl1000r/TRE-3.pdf check it out.

The ignition module maybe going bad or the coils are getting weaker
They must be checked out which a dealer can do for you

Not excited about typing in the problem then discovering that my credit card details were required. So went to see a guy who can fix these and all sorted. If you send me your credit card details I will tell you what the solution was.

Simon

Actually I do not think you are going to find exactly what you are looking for. What may find are forums that may have the information you are looking for. give that a try and see if it helps.

JP

Speed limiters are usually just a block or shim in the carburetor throttle tube, take the cap (top) off and remove, careful not to bend the needle, and replace.

sounds like the piston in the caliper has siezed.you can check this by removing the caliper and then trying the brake. you should be able to see the piston moving in and out. if it isnt then you have found the problem. if they are moving it could be that the pads need to be cleaned up on the sliders and use copper slip to re fit. hope this helps

run the wire on the inside of the instrument panel and splice into existing front turnsignals

If the wires from the mirrors aren't long enough to reach the signal lights, extend the wires with similar guage wires long enought to reach the signal light wires. Make sure to make a good connection when lengthening by useing the same kind of connections that are used to connect your singnal light wires so that you can take your mirros off and disconnect them from right behind where you mount your mirros instead of haveing to disconnect them from way down by your signal lights wires. You can splice into the wires "positive and negitive" to where your signal lights plug into. DO NOT splice into the wires that come off when you remove your singnal lights. That way you dont have to splice and resplice when you have to replace signal light housings. Not that hard really.

You can actually tilt the engine towards the front tire -rotating on the rear mount if yu hve teh front mounts removed. At the apoint the head can go all the way until it touches the tire. Somewhere in between you may have enough room to remove the head. Good luck

Have you verified the battery is good and fully charged? If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/oscar_403cc49e0f00cda7