20 Most Recent 2002 Suzuki GSF 600 N Bandit Questions & Answers

It takes 3 litres

breather goes to floor, might have a return from throttle bodies, fuel line goes to throttle bodies, just check by pulling them off fuel on, use old rag to catch fuel. no smoking when doing this. ;-)

Seen a similar problem to this recently, next time it happens put the bike in gear and rock it back and fourth a couple of times, if the starter then works, i would check the brusshes in the starter motor,

if the clips which hold the fuse are loose a high restistance is created and heat in generated,,is the starter moater spinning okay if not might be drawing excesive current and fuse cant take it look along those paths check main bat leads are tight

has the bike been stood for a while>...if so sounds like pilot jets have some muck/.dirt in them...you need to clean carbs & take jets out to make sure there are clear..(holes up middle of them are clear of obstructions!!)

SOUNDS LIKE FULE STARVATION CHECK CARB AND FULE LINES.

It is not going to happen. You have 150cc's less. You also don't have a fairing to part the wind cleanly

Your battery is dead, the extra draw when trying to start is pulling the wattage so low that your clock is resetting. It will run fine until the battery goes dry and then lightbulbs will all go out and you'll blow your rectifier/regulator. Replace or refill and charg your battery and you'll be good to go.

if its only on 1 cyclinder and your sure the carb and sparks ok then the next step is to do a compression test to see if the fault lies with the engine, i.e. valves, rings etc,

did you change the carb jets to match the k&n's and exhaust, do the k&n's get wet, restricting air flow

maybe your fuse break. check your fuse beside your battery, there should be a 10amp fuse.

This may take a few days, Look for a produce called "PB Blaster". This is the best penetrating oil to use on dissimilar metals where corrosion happens worse. Spray and try to tap the pin with a hammer and punch. Spray and tap, wait, spray, tap, wait. If you can get a grip on it with pliers try and turn a bit left/right just a small amount ether way. Work in small steps, work slow, have patience with it, getting in a hurry is when folks cause damage, make things worse.

Make sure the battery has a good charge on it.
If it does, check the clutch, neutral and kickstand safety interlock switches.
One of the safeties is possibly disconnected or stuck.

It is not uncommon for discs including car discs after changing pads for the disc to squeel.

Because the disc will inevitably wear with use, the old brake pad that causes the wear will also be worn to fit perfectly to the wear on the disc as at engages, whereby grooves in the disc that are formed will be identically paired to that on the brake pad.

Squeeling is also common for old pads, as well as poor quality badly manufactured cheap pads, or excessive use of brake pads - where they get burnt and are too hard against the disc or dust fibres from the brake pad get caught within pad and disc. It could even be a combination of these that causes squeeling.

When you change the pads which are now new and being smooth and unworn they do not mate up anymore with the groove marks created from the wear of the old pads. The discs when brake pressure is applied will always vibrate to some extent, even on new bikes, however if imperfections exist such as the fact there is no wear marks from new pads rubbing against the old disc with its worn imperfections or even improper fitting etc occurs - they will sing in a high pitched squeel at certain speeds, even with good quality pads.

Other than ensuring all items are set up correctly, get a good quality brake pad and if it continues squeeling consider replacing the disc rotar itself or get the old one machined by a mechanic shop to be smooth again.

The most likely fault is that the ignition switch is not working. If you have a manual you could disconnect the switch and try to link the "on" pins. this will either prove the a faulty switch of eliminate it. You don't say what the bike is or if it has an imobilise. This last may be your problem if it has one.

Sorry I couldn't be more specific. This should at least give you a starting point.

the best thing to do is buy a repair book online for troublshoot details-cause Im not understandin statement

It depends on what the model and year is.

.... if you are a do-it-yourselfer and you already know this stuff, skip to the bottom!

It could be a burr in the brake cylinder or a problem with the master cylinder....

Personally, I would not mess around with it because we all know what happens if you lock up your front brakes!

If it is under warranty, let Suzuki deal with it....

If you are out of warranty:

1- If you know what you are doing, I would recommend the "shotgun" approach and replacing both the master cylinder and the wheel cylinder.... yep, it will cost more, but you will be more confident in the fix!

2- If you are not comfortable with brake work, get a skilled friend or a shop to take a look and replace what they think is bad (I would still go with both cylinders, but that is me....)

Also, don't forget if you are a "do-it-yourselfer":

When you are dealing with dual pistons, you need to press them both in together!
(that means TWO "C" clamps- one for each piston!)

adjust the idle screw on the carburetor.

Yes you will need the CDI for the 750f and harness as well