20 Most Recent 2000 Suzuki VL 1500 Intruder LC - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Hi ! for an informantion, please visit the website below. If you need more information about a specific electrical issue you can reach me at [email protected] Motor Part Store Motor Parts Wholesale

p park position should only light the tail light, so my guess is there is one filament of the stop tail bulb shorting to the other filament inside the bulb, try a new bulb

under the cover left side by the seat it has a spare fuse on one side of it sould be 30 amp fuses

hope this helps rectifier test

Sounds like you have a bad stator or rectifier. If you like to work on your own bike get a repair manual it will give you several test you can do. Charge the battery to full charge, take a volt meter and put in on the battery leads pos to plus and neg to ground. start the bike and watch the meter it should be putting out over 13 volts if it is not have your rectifier and stator checked by a pro. also check the compression valve cable it may be out of adjustment . I had one of those bike for 13 years a great bike

A wobble that appears when slowing down is many times just low tire pressure. Check the front tire pressure should be 32-35 pds. Another thing that can cause a wobble is worn or loosely adjusted fork frame neck bearings(steering stem bearings). Disassemble around the handlebars down to the frame neck till you get the upper triple clamp off or can reach the adjuster nut , just underneath on top of the frame neck enough to tighten the steering stem bearings. You will need a shock adjusting tool (curved end with a single tooth) Comes standard in all Honda tool kits). Next, put a jack under the motor to lift the front wheel . Carefully wiggle the front wheel to see if you have a bad wheel bearing. If you do not have fork oil in your forks, you could possibly damage the chrome tubes. No oil would mean the forks would not go up and down smoothly. Do not add oil to your forks. Do not over fill your forks with oil. If you are not sure how much oil is in them, drain them and refill them with the correct amount. If you over fill the forks and drive the bike you will destroy the fork tubes.

check tire pressure and make sure its not running rich

Have you checked the starter switch? It could be that it's sticking on after you let it go. A quick check with a multimeter should tell you. I assume that the starter eventually stops running? If not, you might have a short in your wiring.

Most likely it' s the clutch. Does it change when you engage and disengage the clutch? If so it is normal to hear a little bearing type noise from the clutch area when idling on wet clutch systems.

A dead lightblub? (remove them all, once, and see) A broken wire somewhere? A short-circuit? Some oxydation, including some hidden one inside a connector? Maybe it's time to clean all connections. WD40 helps against oxydation too.

You need to look for a short circuit, probably a bare wire touching the frame. Start with the battery connections, make sure they don't touch anything. Also check the connections to the starter solenoid and the starter. If it still blows, try disconnecting all the wire plugs at the electrical panel. Insert a new fuse, and connect the plugs one at a time until it blows. That's the circuit with the problem!

did you top up fluid , then release the nipple on the slave cylinder then pull clutch lever and hold and then retighten the nipple then release the lever ( doing this several times ) ??

close bleeder pump clutch 3 or 4 times hold clutch in open bleeder close bleeder pump clutch lever 3 to 4 times hold clutch in open bleeder fluid will start to squirt out under pressure close bleeder let clutch lever out pump 3-4 times repeat untill you get pressure in lever hold lever while bleeding donot release while the bleeder is open

check the fuel for any moisture contamination/water as this will freeze and block the system..use some heet in the gas..

yep
look bye the battery top or in the side panels