20 Most Recent 1998 Suzuki GSX-R 600 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

It is probably the sensor for the kickstand, they go bad and will give a signal to shut motor off if it is still down, or you could also make sure your kickstand is not really down.

Use the ignition key for the lock under where the back seat goes, right above the chain. turn the key in the lock and pull up on the cowl, it will come right off, then you can pop the rear pillion "backseat" into it's place

Look under the "typical driver side" right above the chain, under the rear cowl cover there is a key lock. Use the key for the ignition to unlock that lock, as you unlock it pull up on the cowl cover and it will slide right off, if you have the rear pillion"back seat", then you will just pop it right on. And it will be the same procedure to remove and replace that if you want to.

There are two bolts (they take allen keys) one on each side of the seat(toward the back before the rear seat pillion or cowl cover) remove those and it will slide to the back to remove it.

have ya checked the resevoirs? if not getting any resistance when pulling the breaks not enough oil in the resevoirs a case of topping up and maybe some bleeding needed good luck air bubbles can be a nightmare

fill the tank to just about 1 inch below the gas cap opening, that is around 4.2 gallons with a dry tank.

Did bike starts nicely before new battery? If yes, make sure battery teminals are correctly and snugly connected. If yes, then check all your fuses especially the one from (+) terminal one, make sure it is not burned. If yes then replace fuse with correct amperage (should be 30A). If still do not start does your starter solenoid clicks when you turn on ignition and push start button. If yes then check your valve timings and chain, adjust them properly. If no then eplace solenoid. Good enough to look for source problem and helps to resolve it then give return comment on help. Thanks.

ur rocket has a wire harness problem and u must be the inspector-u will need a tech manual to guide u--never replace parts by guess

sound like you have a short to ground check for frayed wires

It is time to get your engine tuned, check the fuel, the timing and the tuning settings.
there can be a reason that the tuning of the fuel/timing of engine can cause this power diffference.

Check and confirm.

dont get into the habit of using your rear brake anyway it'll get you in trouble...rear brake usage should only be left to the professional road racers. you should be glad that your rear brakes arent working..i have a friend that even disabled his because him and i both almost lost it when a car pulled in front of us and the bike was getting side way and wanted to dump me off..high side...you need to get into the habit of learning to control your speed even if your flying down the freeway doing a 100 with just the front brake..also replace the pads often especially when they start squeeking and always remember that new brake pads alway need to be broke in easy... no hard quick stops within the first few miles or you'll put a glaze on the pads and they'll never work right!...but if you want a rear brake, it sounds like your rear caliper is shot ..it needs a rebiuld!
can you rate my expertise! thank you.

could be the front sprocket or the chain is stretched and not seating properly, replacement of both sprockets and chain will be required

Hi, If there is excessive air in your system after reassembly of master cylinder, the lever will have a spongy feeling about it and possible inconsistency or will have travel, bleeding the hydraulic system is best carried out by two people, remove the reservoir lid, top up over half and replace lightly to keep out dust, get a old glass jar, and a clear pipe that pushes down into the top of the bleeder valve, which is on top of the caliper block, and sink pipes other end into a little brake fluid in the glass, ensure there is always sufficient brake fluid in the reservoir tank, top up later if needed, use open spanner for bleeder valve, unscrew the bleeder valve one half turn and squeeze the brake lever as far as it will go, but do not release it until the bleeder valve is tightened again, repeat this a few times until a no more air bubbles come from the plastic pipe. Also, ensure all other joints are secured in this brake system, When all the bubbles disappear, close the bleeder valve, remove the pipe and install the bleeder valve dust cap. Check the fluid level in the reservoir, after the bleeding operation has been complete. Reinstall the Diaphragm, and the cap. Do not use the brake fluid drained from system as it contains minute air bubbles. There was the question of the locking pads, after the air is removed from the calipers, and there is still a prob, I might have the answer

Your ignition coil failed, have it check.

Sounds like the starter clutch is worn out its a one way clutch and when it will slip and catch making noise.

loose bendix..replace

do a compression check on cylinders. Check plug for craked insulator

Hi,
Try this great video link from `Youtube`. The same guy also shows how to remove a rear wheel. Good tips & instructions:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CcSb-44nL0

bad gas cap pressure relief system or stuck float ...but it just could be a worn out fuel line connection up by the t-fitting. check petcock for security also it might be loose.

Thats in the mid range of the rpm's so I got to say that you have something in the carbs that are making it do that. You need to take the carbs off and disassemble them and clean them real good.