20 Most Recent 1998 Suzuki GSX 600 F (Katana) Questions & Answers

Hey Anon, ...If the bike has been sitting for a long time,.. as you state..99.999% chance its the carburetors, they are probably clogged/stopped up/dirty.. (sitting for this long has actually ruined some carbs to the point of replacement).. all the garbage that is included in gasoline now is really bad on the insides of a carb!!) Take them to a qualified professional for checking, cleaning and setting .... Check the compression on all cylinders.. you should have at least 120+psi. MINIMUM.... with no more that 20PSI. max difference between ANY two cylinders... Forget about all the minutia in the first answer.. just a bunch of copy and paste... no real life experience..he's just racking up points

Try bypassing the side stand switch altogether & also any safety switch on the clutch lever, sounds like some sort of wiring issue or maybe a bad stator plate.

doubt it. Check like amazon for example. It's the best $$$ you'll ever spend.

check with Suzuki for the parts cost for all you want done then check around the bike shops for quotes to do what you want. The prices will vary so be cautious in the exercise and choose only reputable operators.

check ur spark plug

I would take it to a shop and let them do it for you

Sometimes you can have success by tapping, fairly stoutly, on each float bowl. The problem with anything else, is the carbs really need to be removed, and examined. It is the putting back on that is critical. The carbs need to be balanced. That is one reason to have a shop do it, if you're not familiar with the process.Try the banging, and after inspect to be certain each carb is not flooding.

lift takk and take airbox off lol if u dont no id get someone who can lol

Spark gap should be 25thou or 0.9mm.

If it's leaking from the top of the "petcock" (name of entire valve assembly that controlls the fuel) where it meets with the tank then you can order just the rubber o-ring from any certified suzuki powersports dealer. If it is leaking from the rubber hose part any fuel line hose the same size as yours will work (should be 6.5mm). If it is leaking from where the switch actually moves then the entire valve "petcock" needs to be replaced. If you go to a powersports dealer ask them if k&L makes an aftermarket for your model, it's hit or miss, but if they do you can get a petcock from them for a fraction of the price a oem one will cost.

Also a side note if your going to let your bike sit for a while (until next riding season) instead of draining the tank, fill it to the top and add fuel stabilizer, then when you are ready to ride again drain the tank and apply fresh fuel. This will prevent your tank from rusting.

Fuel filters are a cheap replacement as well, if you pull the petcock off the tank you will see a long plastic screen, that is your fuel filter. Larger shops may have it in stock, unfortunatly you have an older bike, they may have to special order. Always check ebay. Good luck!

you can renew the master cylinder seals, the calipar seals can also cause the lever to feel spongy, they grip the pistons and pull them too far back into the bores instead of letting them return just enough to realease the brake, in this condition when you apply the brake most of the lever travel is just pushing the calipar pistons out to reach the pads and the little travel that is left is pushing the pads on to the disc, hense the spongy feel

hi,sounds to me like you have a bent sprocket or worse a bent counter shaft,check the rear sprocket first,get the rear wheel off the ground(centrestand will do),find a block or something,place it beside the rear sprocket,using the block as a rest ,hold a ruler about a 1/4 inch off the sprocket and check the runout by simply spinning the back wheel,the gap between the ruler should not change by more than about 1/2mm to 1mm around the entire sprocket,if it does then it needs to be replaced,if the sprocket is running true,remove the engine cover over the front sprocket and repeat as per the rear sprocket,also look for any up/down forwards/backwards movement in the countershaft,i hope it is the rear one that is the problem as it will be relatively easy to fix,if it is the front(doubtfull)and the countershaft is bent then it will be quite expensive to repair...note a countersahft can be bent by overtightening the drive chain,when the suspension moves rather than the chain taking up the movement(which it is supposed to do)then the chain will pull against the counter shaft and bend it,or the bearing will fail (more common) or crack the crankcase..hope this helps...cheers

first thing to check is there will be a thinner fuel line looking hos that comes from the tap to that is the vacuum pipe make sure its not split and that its connected to the inlet manifold because thats what creates the vacuum for the tap to release the fuel the reason it comes out on prime is the prime setting just opens the tap up with out vacuum hope this helps

This usually means the clutch is going bad or is bad. Does it seem to shift hard when you are normal shifting? You should be able to shift with the lever pulled 3/4 of the way back with no surging or hard shift. I would start with replacing the clutch or having it checked out.

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The main metering jets in the carbs,can get clogged and usually can only be cleaned with a small drill bit, or in some cases if you have someone that uses syringes for insulin, they usually are the right size. anyway these can be a big problem, but if you can blow through them, then they probably are ok. The other thing that can go wrong with setting too long is build up in the bottom of the gas tank expecially if you have a reserve tank...they are much harder to clean...if the new fuel filter that you put on keeps getting clogged, this is a good sign that you still have debrie somewhere in the fuel system. Also, you want to make sure that you have a good setting on your float level, and I like to put in new jets when they have set for a while, you can loosen the drain screws on the carbs individually and see if there is anyone of them that isn't bleeding the same to give you an idea whether the floats or needles are doing their job...hope this helps.

I guess you need a new ignition switch to cure your turning off problem, the pipe from air filter is probably the crankcase breather that vents pressure from engine in to air box, this will contain some oil mist

There is a vaccum fuel valve, that shuts off the fuel when not running, if that line has a crack or leak it will not let fuel into the carb.
The only thing I can think of w/o more info

they have got shims.you will need to check your shim clearances and fit new ones.its a right pain in the nech.

http://rtcdesign.com/gsx600f_manual/GSX600F.pdf there is a free download for the pre 98 katana. go to www.katriders.com and join for free and i'm sure someone can help you there if this don't help