20 Most Recent 1994 Suzuki RF 600 R Questions & Answers

Yes it has a fuse, and you have a good pump

try it, should be ok.

left side

hi, ime fairly sure you will find this is key operated, you should find the lock on the lefthand side of the seat subframe, some models have 2 locks 1 for the front seat and 1 for the rear, also check on the underside of the subframe you may find it concealed in a small hole in the plastic undertray, hope this helps, paul

Hello Camron, i would not recommend the hot wire procedure. If you spike the controller it could do a lot of damage. Plus the stator & rectifier are not working properly. You can replace the ignition switch, that comes with 2 new keys cheaper than a locksmith will make one, in most cases. Here are a couple of links for ignition switches that will fit your bike. I hope this helps. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-SUZUKI-IGNITION-SWITCH-RF600-RF-600-900-R-1994-1997-/320638173418?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aa78640eahttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IGNITION-SWITCH-SUZUKI-RF600R-RF-600R-1994-1995-1996-/290616673722?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43aa1a85bahttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994-1996-SUZUKI-RF600R-RF-600-600R-IGNITION-SWITCH-/170695847670?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27be43eef6

hi, fairly sure its under the seat next to the battery otherwise it will be under the fairing infill left hand side

go to bikebandit.com or J.C.





















whitney, they both have it

Cases can often be Heiliarc welded. Contact a commercial welder in your area. The other option is a new case. Go to www.babbittssports.com/parts/viewbybrand/parts.aspx and see if they have a casing.

It's hard to say "this is it" without more info such as when did the problem start happening? Did it just happen out of the blue one day where you went out to start it and it wouldn't start? Did it happen after changing spark plugs? Were there any issues/symptoms the last time it was running and you rode it?

If you changed plugs, check the plug wires. They may be on the wrong plugs which mixes up the firing order and would definitely cause what you are seeing. If it just started happening out of the blue, were there symptoms of hesitation the last time you rode it? Any flat spots in the acceleration when you twisted the throttle? Did it bog at any point in the RPM range or backfire when you let off the gas? The backfire and cough are usually related to timing issues but you should have seen symptoms the last time you rode it if the timing started to get whacked.

test your starter relay and starter selinoid

Someone may have used an RTV type silicone sealant

No one can tell you what jet size to use unless they know exactly what exhaust and jets you have now. The best thing for you to do is go back to a known good configuration. If it has never run right since you had it, go back to stock (make sure it runs right with stock settings now!) and start your adjustments from there. Change one thing at a time and do performance testing between each change. Dyno runs are best, but timed runs might work too, depending on your application.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

On most Suzukis with fuel pump that I have worked on, the wiring would be:

• Yellow/Green - start interlock, connected to the clutch lever position switch and/or starter control relay;
• Black/White - ground;
• Orange/Yellow - ignition B+12; and
• Black/Yellow - trigger pulse, connected to the - terminal of one of the ignition coils and/or to the CDI/igniter.

Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

shop manual page 16 and 22

Its not easy to know what the wires are for. They could have been for an alarm from the previous owner which was removed. Is the bike running ok? Tape up the wires individually until their purpose is known. Here is a link to the manual where you will find wiring diagrams. Wires will be colour coded.
Rate me if this helps you, thanks and good luck with the new bike.
http://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?fileid=083117122117107105095082070095054048048095115101114118105099101095109097110117097108046112100102

if engine, has sight glass, if mpty oild filter not primed, fill till sight glass is just over mark, turn engine over no choke no throttle to allow oil to get round with not running throtle pressure, run a few seconds, then let stand recheck at sight glass on foot brake side, top up if needs be to line nr top of sight glass and close cap.

Sounds like the chain is worn out and needs replacing if there is no more adjustment!A good idea is to replace the sprockets at the same time, as they wear along with the chain, and will cause a new chain to wear out sooner.

You need a new chain, a worn chain will not match up properly with a new gear/cog. You can do this yourself, the chain should have a link that will come apart.

Hi, led will only light if they are wired in the correct order, earth to earth and live to live, you have replaced the switch to no avail, the only thing left is the flasher relay, this type of indicator must be fitted with a relay suitable for led indicatorsThe original relay would not be suitable causing problems as you have described, it may be you have the correct relay, led aftermarket relays are not so reliable as original equiptment as used with standard indicators, and sometimes burn out as they are solid state an obviouse burning to the silicone backing is a give away to its condition, if it shows signs of burning or any other damage replace it as so if you still have the original one fitted, lastly you dont say which model your bike is, on some suzuki motorcycles the relay is not just. A flasher relay it has multi functions and correct wireing of the relay is not so easy, unfortunatly suzuki is the only manufactor that specific led flasher relays are not listed for and a universal 1 must be used with the above difficulties