20 Most Recent 1991 Suzuki DR 650 RS-E Questions & Answers

LOL...toughen up and learn the art of kicking it....bring it up slowly to TDC on the compression stroke...with the kicker in the highest position, grit your teeth and give her all she's got...then be ready for the recoil. I had an old BSA Victor that would throw you over the handle bars when it kicked back....good luck, hope this helps.

Fork oil #10 is 570ml amount or 129mm level for each leg.
Cheers!

No, only the top engine mount and Cylinder Head Cover need to be removed.

First step is so set motor at Top Dead Centre and remove top engine mount from bike.
Next remove cylinder head cover, the rockers will come off with it. Take notes and number the Cylinder Head Cover bolts as they are of differing lengths and must be replaced in same place with appropriate oil sealing washers on some.
Next slacken camchain tensioner and remove camshaft sprocket bolts. Note placement of steel half ring and rubber end cap. Pass a tie or wire through chain and attach to frame above to stop camchain dropping into motor...then you will have to pull engine apart.
Take note of sprocket alignment mark and remove the two bolts.
Lift off sprocket and camshaft.

Assembly is the reversal of this procedure.

Cheers!

Fork oil #10 is 570ml amount or 129mm level for each leg.
Cheers!

Cannot help you with the actual specifications you require, but the below link has provided further threads to the specs I've needed prior to getting a service manual for all of my bikes.

Cheers.

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-dr600-1987-rh_model13213/forum/

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-dr650-se-usa_model15962/partslist/

Exploded views of the offending parts are here in each segment of the bike. See: Starter clutch, Starter motor, Crankcase, Crank balancer, Magneto.
There are several things turning as a result of the crank. Balancers and idlers all hide in there.
Cheers.

It is not a big job if you know what to do and you have a rotor puller. But you may likely cause big $ damage if you don't.
The "starter clutch" is on the end of the starter motor and when activated turns an idler cog, which then turns the clutch starter set. This clutch starter set is behind the magneto rotor (flywheel) and should not be the problem. To remove the rotor you will require an appropriate size rotor puller available from most larger bike accessories stores for under $20, or the Suzuki Special Tool for 10x the price!
Your problem most likely lies with the starter clutch pack itself and is a parts replacement item.
The link below will provide by exploded view, diagrams of the parts you need to check, at least you can have an idea when you talk to your parts dealer. Cheers.
http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-dr650-se-usa_model15962/partslist/

replace the starter.

not unless you want to create major back pressure and cause more problems.

If the rims are with spokes they use tube.If it has aluminum rims (like a street bike) then you can install tubeless tires

could be a safety switch on the kick stand or their is also one on the clutch make sure u have the clutch pulled in and the kick stand up when u try to start it  if still doesn't  work it could be the starter solenoid  if you have a test light be sure to check for power at the small wire on the solenoid when the button is pushed   if  it does have power and wont crank  its bad     

is damaged the starter roller and the gear pinion

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.

A broken timing chain is the most likely cause, the piston is hitting an open valve, or you have a dropped valve or a stuck valve. Another possibility is something jamming behind behind the side covers.The key would be how you discovered this? Driving along at 105 and the engine stopped, or ???https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+suzuki+boulevard+timing+chain+or+timing+belt....

You can't, the computerized system is in place to stop exactly what you are trying to do, Steal the bike without the correct credentials. You can't reprogram or over-ride the computer. You need a bike electrician.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&type=E210US1494G0&p=repair+manual+for+1986+Suzuki+cavalcade+gv1400

The crank case will be almost as hot as the oil flowing around the engine, lubricating the bearings.