20 Most Recent 1991 Suzuki GSX 600 F (Katana) Questions & Answers

Hi, it could be that the switch inners are not functioning properly, open switch and make shore it is cleaned and working ok,and check wire connections are good, just food for thought, all the best.

just check tightness of terminals mate,

As far as I know the fuel is vacuum fed to the carbs, did you take the fuel tank off & forget to connect all the pipes going to it? One is the vacuum pipe for the carbs.

GSX 600F Katana 1989-1991 GSX 600F Katana 1989-1991 OEM Gear Ratio - 14T Front Sprocket / 46T Rear Sprocket OEM Chain - 530 Pitch / 112 Links

It sounds like the impact that bent your kickstand may have damaged something inside your transmission. You best bet might be to take it to a repair shop and see if they can at least diagnose what might be causing the noise. Happy and Safe riding to you.

fit gauges...balance 1+2 with the screw between them...balance 3+4 with the screw between them...balance left and right pairs with the screw in the middle...

My first thought would be dirt in the carbys or a disconnected vacuum line

1. vacuum leaks at the back side of the carb spigots or other vacuum lines off/broken. Remove the carbs and spigots from the head and clean with acetone/laquer thinner afterward sealing the spigots to the head with gasket maker/silicone rtv.2. Carb idle and low speed jets may be plugged up and carbs need a correct cleaning.3. Carbs need rejetting to match the after market mufflers. Take it to a shop with a motorcycle chassis dyno and they will be able to tune the after market pipes.

It is supposed to be dry.

No, the area should be dry. If there is oil in the cavity that means the sending unit hasn't been installed properly and is therefore leaking. Clean the area of excess oil and debris, remove the sending unit and inspect the threads. If the threads appear to be okay, wrap the threads counter-clockwise with Teflon tape and re install. Exercise caution as to not over tighten.

if it is in gear for sure and it doesnt move even with the clutch engaged maybe you are missing a piece inside the clutch like the clutch boss spring. or possibly your plates are worn so much they wont hook up. or you are using a very poor grade of oil. Dont take my absolute word for all these solutions but these may lead to some problems like that.

Hello
It sounds like either the fuel control valve has no vacuum to it or the valve is defective, check the vacuum hose to the valve from the engine for vacuum, if vacuum is present then the valve is defective. The PRI (prime) bypasses the vacuum controlled supply valve, the idea is that the fuel is shut off unless the engine is running to prevent flooding the engine. You will need to remove the fairing on the fuel supply valve side and lift the tank yo to gain access to the valve. I had the 750 model of this bike and my fuel valve did the same thing.

A tune up would be the first course of action if the bike has any appreciable mileage and hasn't been tuned before. If you run the bike regularly (ie. don't let it sit for months at a time) and the tune up doesn't solve your problem, the carburetors could just need an adjustment. If the bike has sat for a long time, the carbs may need to be removed and cleaned from gum and varnish residue.

That usually indicates an air leak between the carbs and cylinder head. Hardened rubber fittings, caps and "O" rings are the usual source. Clean the air filter and clean the carbs while inspecting the manifold rubber parts.

Bad valves are much more likely than the carbs. Check the compression on each cylinder. The minimum is 120psi. The norm is 150. Chances are you could pull the head off and re-seat the valves then be back on the road again. Since the head is off already, consider honing the cylinders and installing fresh rings as some of the power loss is due to compression getting past the rings. In any event, the compression check will tell the tail. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

You may have a shift fork or two starting to go bad. When a fork gets bent, it does not move the slider gear properly. When that happens, the slider's gear dogs don't engage fully into the slots cast into the driven gears. A rattling noise occurs. When full engagement happens you get the bucking. As time goes by, the shifting pedal will get harder and harder to shift. Then you simply can't get it into or out of a gear. The bike is 20 years old, parts are getting hard to find. Finding a shop willing to work on it can also be difficult to find. The repair will probably cost between $1000 and $1700. That's pretty much more than the bike is worth. The diagram below will give you an idea of how the shifting takes place. I wish I could give you better news. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

If the motorcycle has been dormant for a while the I would fully suspect the fuel system is clogged with sediment. Gas over a period of time even as little as three months under the right condition can produce this foul smelling gas ans basically shut the gas off from getting to the carbs or injectors or if yhou hav gas to the card then the jets are plugged.

No amount of trying it going to make it run and if it does start then it will not run properly.

Unfortunately the fix is to get the fuels system trained cleaned and serviced.

You are not alone with this problem

It can be worked around with what is called a fuel stabilizer added to the gas before long periods of storage.

So for the bad news

It is normally under the seat.