20 Most Recent 1989 Suzuki GSX-R 750 RK Questions & Answers

First check for bad connections in the bulb plug, wiring plugs and wiring for damage or corrosion. Something is heating up and breaking a connection. Unplug plugs and fill with dielectric grease. If all else is good replace the bulb.

I've got a service manual for a GSXR 750F

Would that help?

Let me know.

call suzuki parts dealer

u cant be a mechanic without a repair manual-its written in the stars

The oil can be drained removing the NEAS system valves ( 2 allen bolts ).
System contains 456 cc ( 15.4oz.) oil in each leg.
the oil-level measured from the top of the COMPRESSED leg is 107mm.
To measure:
- have an oil-suction pump
- Make a tube with a stopper at 130mmfrom the end.
Drill a little hole ( 3mm ) at 107mm (4.21in) of the stopper.

More oil will tighten the suspension, less will soften it a bit.
Oil type: SAE15

Hope this helps

Find any motorcycle service or owner's manual here:
http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/

I'm not pitching the website, but that's where I found mine and a few buddies' manuals.
Good Luck

Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell. Change the oil filter along with the oil.

I would suggest it is the rotor carrier buttons. The stock rotors are semi floating. The buttons allow for some movement of the rotor , but at slow speed when they have heated up and expanded they will limit the amount of movement the rotor has. At high speed the forces generated will free the buttons up and you won't feel anything. You could do the full floating mod , but then you have to put up with noisy rotors ????

Unfortunately it sounds like you may have stripped the sump plate of its threads, have a look at the bolt and note the condition of the threads. There's not a lot you can do except remove sump & replace or if you have a 'handy' engineering shop they maybe able to weld and re-tap to the correct thread.

The tubes, or core of the cooler cannot be repaired. They are very thin walled. Another point to consider is that your bike is oil cooled (Suzuki Advanced Cooling System) its very important that all this works properly because a catastrophic failure of the cooler will destroy your engine and possibly kill you when the oil reaches the back wheel. You will need to replace it with an identical unit. Should not be hard to find one at a breakers or ebay.
Regards, Mike.

I use hair spray. -Cut the old ones off -Soak the clip-on (left) w/hairspray -Quickly slide grip on and align. Once it is aligned allow it to dry. -Soak throttle tube (right) with hairspray, slid grip on, align, and allow to dry. I guess this is probably a bad time to tell you about the R1 throttle tube (or BRG throttle tube) mod. It's a bigger throttle tube which means less twisting to go WOT. Late model Gixxers are notorious for a long twist to go WOT.

dont take a full from the charger as gospel it can still be tell you fibs,,, check the battery leads they need to be clean, and then try with a meeter to check the battery is good it may have gone dead flat and if this is so it may never recover to take a charge,,, however the charger will say its a full battery as it cant charge it any more,,,if you have a set of jump leads and a good car battery hook that up to the bike,, it should go then, and if it do,,, get new batterys fitted,,,,
il give you a tip here,,,,get a solar battery charger there not to pricy and if you hook it up to the bike battery when your going to leave it standing around for more than a week or so it will keep the battery fully charged or you,,, it only needs day light to work but in sun light it works much better, so if the bike is locked away in a shed put the charger out side in sun light,,,it cant over charge the battery on the bike,, i have them on my bikes all year round and the battery life is doubled so there a realy good tool to have they work on cars too? free power,,,good A!

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.

A broken timing chain is the most likely cause, the piston is hitting an open valve, or you have a dropped valve or a stuck valve. Another possibility is something jamming behind behind the side covers.The key would be how you discovered this? Driving along at 105 and the engine stopped, or ???https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+suzuki+boulevard+timing+chain+or+timing+belt....

You can't, the computerized system is in place to stop exactly what you are trying to do, Steal the bike without the correct credentials. You can't reprogram or over-ride the computer. You need a bike electrician.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&type=E210US1494G0&p=repair+manual+for+1986+Suzuki+cavalcade+gv1400

The crank case will be almost as hot as the oil flowing around the engine, lubricating the bearings.