2008 kawasaki ZX-6R - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

the fans should turn on when coolant is hot , I would go to a motorcycle electrician

Without knowing the bikes history, my guess would be that you have got oil involved. Sounds like you may have oil in the cylinders, and it WILL burn it off, eventually. Is the smoke a bluish, or more white? The blue is oil, the white is water. Is the unit more difficult to start than normal? If it doesn't start correcting itself very soon, I feel you should do more intense and involved inspection. Love these things, and really wish I was closer and could help you play with the repair. Best of luck.

OEM Type: Yuasa #YTX9-BS Motorcycle Battery for Kawasaki ZX600-FA Ninja ZX-6R - 600cc (2008-2011)

Depending on the type of alarm you have, it could be cutting power from the rest of your bike... .I know that on my CBR that if the alarm and battery are not hooked up in the right order then it will do just what you are saying. This is to keep a thief from just unhooking the battery/alarm etc and make off with your bike. Thats what I would check next since you have already checked the fuses. Also to keep in mind is that there is likely a main "in-line" fuse plus your fuse box to check. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jacob_ef07fae976be506b

Hi.

The factory did not made public the bike paint color codes.There are resources from third party sellers available.
Please use any of the resources below to identify the paint codes of your bike.

Check first with Color Rite. They list all Kawasaki factory paint codes:

Find your color code at Color Rite - Kawasaki Motorcycle Paint

Below more resources:

Full list of Kawasaki codes. From Japart-Nl.

Kawasaki codes explained.

Regards.

Ginko

Try heating the filter with a heat gun. It will expand with heat and should release.

is there a casing close to where the leak is if so then you could have a cracked seal on that casing be very careful not to run the bike to much and always keep an eye on the oil levels top up until problem fixed

fuel system may need to have solids (trash or water) removed.Clean tank, hoses and filter. If you find trash in any of these, the carbs are next to be cleaned out.

Keep the revs below 5000RPM for the first 500 miles,
don't stay at the same RPM for extended periods, its best to have the engine work at different revs so do "unnecessary" gear changes when on long straights, don't use full throttle acceleration for 500 miles and maybe change the oil at 250 AND 500 miles for the absolute perfect run in, you can also change the oil filter at 250 and 500 since the engine will be kicking out a lot of metal during the run in and the less metal the smoother the bearings and cylinders will be throughout the life of the engine.

Swap out the Speedo. A used one should be about 100 to 300 bucks. Depending on mileage.

Remove just the middle or go under the bottom of the top fairing a peace a cake'

dirty pilot jets or dirt in your fuel system.

It's not F1, it's FI and it's a Fuel Injection problem. Can't help more than that but i'm sure your dealer can

probably old gas or condensation built up in carb or injectors.if carbureated drain float bowl & if you still have old gas in it drain tank close drain screw/bolt refill with premium fuel add fuel cleaner like b12 chemtool or seafoam(7-10$) to a fresh tank of gas...sometimes i just add the b12 chemtool (3-5$)and run it a few miles and it snaps right back to new!

Your only real solution here,is to buy another ignition cylider/switch,..or take it off and take it to a locksmith.Good Luck!

Check the clutch, neutral and side stand safety interlocks.
Double check that the bike is in neutral, and the clutch is pulled in when trying to start the bike.
If the bike is in gear with the side stand down, the bike cuts off all ignition.
If the clutch isn't pulled in, the starter won't engage.
Check all these safety interlock switches, and make sure you are in neutral with the clutch in when trying to start the bike.

You might still have clogged pilot jets, also check the cold start circuit and idle circuits, when you synce the carbs did you do them at idle and 6k rpm?

check your Thermostat is engaging, if you have a haynes/clymer manual it will show you how.

check that the radiator is filled 100% from the cap and bled of air by squeezing the hoses,


anything else about the F model is pretty simple,

i used to use www.kawiforums.com for my 95 ZX6R but its an american site, so some of it didnt make sense to me.

Thanks for the inquiry!
From your information I can't tell if this is a off-road bike or a street bike. With the extended swing arm I'm suspecting off-road. In either case it's very much same issues. You have two issues and we will deal with them separately.
Chain catching sound:
In low gear when you have maximum torque applied to your rear sprocket & wheel many times the primary sprocket (smallest one under the engine side cover) will slip and actually jump teeth. You indicated this is the third season, so it's seen a lot of wear. It would also explain that when you adjust/ tighten the chain tensioner the noise is gone as the front sprocket is not slipping in the chain. If this happens a couple of times the front sprocket is ruined. Pull the front sprocket cover and inspect the teeth. The teeth will be smooth and ground away if this has occurred. Most off-road riders go through 1 - 2 sprocket and chain sets per season with the abrasion form the sand and mud if they are serious about their riding. Replace front sprocket or both sprockets & chain.
Other possibilities are that you have lost your chain guide or the plastic wear plates inside the chain guide are gone and the chain is banging against the metallic sides or your swing arm making the chain jumping sound you have described. Replace the guide or wear plates to solve this.
Whooping sound on front of bike while coasting: This familiar sound appears to be related to your front wheel. The best way to test this is to set your bike on a bench, crate, or test stand so the front wheel/tire is off the floor/ground and spin the wheel. Your rim may be bent allowing the tire to rub against the fork tubes or front fender making the whooping sound. The engine noise drown's it out under power but noise is audible when coasting with the clutch in and engine idling. The simple fix is a spoke tightening and adjustment to properly true the wheel. You will hear if its a bearing or something else being rubbed against by a wooble or something out of round (run out) causing the whooping sound.
I hope I've provided you useful assistance and that this information allows you to make an informed decision as to how to proceed from here. Please be sure to vote on my response. I hope I've earned a good rating from you today.
Please post a comment if you need additional assistance so that I can help you further.
Happy cycling,
TF

check out this website below for some decent instructions since they are too long to pos here

http://www.kawiforums.com/how-tos-faqs/101898-how-replace-fork-seals-inverted-forks.html